
Chef Joost
Ajam Besengek
Ajam Besengek is the golden chicken stew of the Indo-Dutch table: coconut milk, turmeric, and candlenut cooked down until the sauce clings to the meat like memory.
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The old Dutch spelling already tells you this chicken has crossed oceans: ajam roedjak, sweet, sour, hot, and salty, the Indo family table in one braising pan.
The first time I understood the Indo-Dutch table properly, it was not in a restaurant with a silver rijsttafel, the rice table of many small dishes. It was in a Dutch kitchen where the windows ran with rain and the whole room smelled of trassi, fermented shrimp paste, blooming in oil. A Dutch child knows that smell before he knows the politics behind it. Later, with books open, he learns the rest.
The name already tells you the journey. Ajam is the old Dutch colonial spelling for ayam, Indonesian for chicken, and roedjak is rujak, the sharp-sweet fruit and vegetable salad dressed with chili, palm sugar, tamarind, and shrimp paste. In this dish the idea of rujak becomes a sauce: sour enough to wake the tongue, sweet enough to round the chili, salty and deep from trassi, softened by coconut milk. But let me tell you a secret: the balance is the recipe. Not the number of chilies. Not the prettiness of the garnish. Balance.
This is the kind of cooking that came home with Indo families and colonial households after empire began to unmake itself at the dinner table. History and cookery, they cannot be separated, though many people try when the sauce is good enough. We won't. We will cook it plainly: brown the chicken, fry the bumbu, the spice paste, until it smells cooked rather than raw, then braise until the coconut milk turns glossy and clings to the meat. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. Rice on the side, cucumber for coolness, and the pan brought to the table without apology.
Ajam roedjak reflects the Indo-Dutch kitchen that formed in the Dutch East Indies and became part of Dutch home cooking through repatriated Indo families, especially after Indonesian independence in 1945 and the difficult migrations of the 1950s. The old spelling, ajam roedjak, preserves Dutch colonial orthography before modern Indonesian standardized ayam rujak; the dish is closely related to Javanese ayam bumbu rujak, chicken cooked in a sauce inspired by the sweet-sour-hot rujak dressing. In the Netherlands it became a familiar rijsttafel dish, not because it was invented for display, but because its balance of coconut, chili, tamarind, palm sugar, and trassi could carry a whole table of rice, pickles, and sambal.
Quantity
1.2kg
patted dry
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
6
roughly chopped
Quantity
4
roughly chopped
Quantity
3
chopped, seeds kept or removed to taste
Quantity
2 teaspoons
toasted briefly
Quantity
3 candlenuts or 2 tablespoons macadamias
Quantity
2cm
chopped
Quantity
3cm
sliced
Quantity
1 stalk
bruised
Quantity
2
Quantity
2
Quantity
400ml
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
plus more to taste
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in chicken thighs and drumstickspatted dry | 1.2kg |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon |
| neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| shallotsroughly chopped | 6 |
| garlic clovesroughly chopped | 4 |
| red chilieschopped, seeds kept or removed to taste | 3 |
| trassi (fermented shrimp paste)toasted briefly | 2 teaspoons |
| candlenuts or unsalted macadamia nuts | 3 candlenuts or 2 tablespoons macadamias |
| fresh gingerchopped | 2cm |
| fresh galangalsliced | 3cm |
| lemongrassbruised | 1 stalk |
| salam leaves or bay leaves | 2 |
| kaffir lime leaves | 2 |
| coconut milk | 400ml |
| water or chicken stock | 150ml |
| tamarind paste | 2 tablespoons |
| palm sugar or dark brown sugar | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| kecap manis | 1 tablespoon |
| lime juiceplus more to taste | 1 tablespoon |
| cooked white rice | to serve |
| cucumber slices | to serve |
Pat the chicken dry and season it with the salt. Let it stand while you make the bumbu, the spice paste. This short rest is not ceremony; salt needs a little time to reach the surface properly, and dry chicken browns instead of sulking in its own moisture.
Blend or pound the shallots, garlic, chilies, toasted trassi, candlenuts, ginger, and a tablespoon or two of water into a rough paste. Don't make it too smooth. A little texture is welcome, and the sauce will finish the work in the pan.
Heat the oil in a wide heavy pan or braadpan, a Dutch braising pot, over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken in batches, about three minutes per side, then lift it to a plate. You are not cooking it through here. You are giving the sauce something browned and honest to hold onto.
Lower the heat to medium and add the bumbu to the same pan. Fry it for six to eight minutes, stirring often, until the oil begins to separate slightly and the paste smells rounded rather than raw. Add the galangal, lemongrass, salam leaves, and kaffir lime leaves, and stir for another minute.
Stir in the coconut milk, water or stock, tamarind paste, palm sugar, and kecap manis. Bring it to a gentle simmer and scrape the bottom of the pan so the browned bits dissolve into the sauce. Taste carefully: it should be sweet, sour, salty, and hot, with no one voice shouting over the others.
Return the chicken and any juices to the pan. Simmer uncovered for thirty-five to forty minutes, turning the pieces now and then, until the chicken is tender and the sauce has thickened enough to coat a spoon in a glossy brick-orange layer. Keep the heat gentle. Coconut milk forgives many things, but a hard boil is not one of them.
Stir in the lime juice, then taste again. Add a little more tamarind for sourness, palm sugar for roundness, salt for clarity, or lime for brightness. Remove the lemongrass, galangal, and leaves if you like, or leave them in as every auntie seems to do. Serve with white rice and cucumber slices.
1 serving (about 540g)
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Chef Joost
Ajam Besengek is the golden chicken stew of the Indo-Dutch table: coconut milk, turmeric, and candlenut cooked down until the sauce clings to the meat like memory.

Chef Joost
The old Dutch spelling says ajam, the city says Batavia, and the pot says exactly what the rijsttafel always was: memory, trade, and dinner in one dish.

Chef Joost
The name means simply fried chicken, but the Dutch spelling carries a whole Indies kitchen: turmeric, coriander, garlic, and a golden crust that remembers the boemboe.

Chef Joost
Ajam is the old Dutch spelling of ayam, chicken, and opor is the pale coconut braise that lets a rijsttafel breathe between its darker, hotter dishes.