Mayonnaise de Homard

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Medium mixing bowl and balloon whisk
• •Lobster crackers and seafood picks
• •Large salad bowl or wide oval serving platter
• •Sharp slicing knife

Instructions

1. 1

   Cook and cool eggs

   If using the eggs, set them in a small saucepan and cover them with cold water by 1 inch. Bring the water just to a boil, cover the pan, remove it from the heat, and leave the eggs for 10 minutes. Transfer them immediately to cold water, then peel and quarter them once completely cool; a grey ring means an egg was cooked too fiercely, but the flavour is unharmed.

2. 2

   Whisk the mayonnaise

   Set a damp towel beneath a medium bowl so it cannot wander. Whisk the yolk with 1 teaspoon of the Dijon mustard, the tablespoon of vinegar, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, and half the white pepper until smooth. Add the oil drop by drop at first, whisking constantly; once the emulsion holds a thick trail, pour in a very thin, steady thread. If the sauce turns oily or separates, stop. Ça se rattrape: whisk the reserved teaspoon of mustard with 1 teaspoon of cold water in a clean bowl, then add the broken mayonnaise a teaspoon at a time until it becomes smooth before continuing. When all the oil is incorporated, whisk in enough remaining cold water to make a soft, glossy mayonnaise that falls heavily from the whisk rather than standing like paste. Taste and keep cold.

3. 3

   Break down lobster

   Twist the tail, claws, and knuckles from the body. Crack the claws gently, pull out their meat as whole as possible, and pick the knuckles clean; run your fingertips over every piece because one chip of shell can spoil an otherwise splendid mouthful. Split the tail shell underneath, lift out the meat, and remove the dark intestinal vein. Cut the claw and knuckle meat into generous bite-sized pieces, then slice the tail crosswise into thin, even medallions. Keep the two portions separate and cold.

4. 4

   Ciselé the lettuce

   Set aside the smallest, neatest lettuce hearts for the garnish. Stack the tender outer leaves, roll them loosely, and cut them crosswise into narrow ribbons. This is ciselé, cut after the manner of fine, even chaff rather than torn into irregular pieces. Dry the ribbons again if necessary. Water clinging to lettuce dilutes its seasoning and makes mayonnaise slide away.

5. 5

   Season the leaves

   Whisk the teaspoon of vinegar with the tablespoon of oil, the remaining salt, and the remaining white pepper. Toss the ciselé lettuce with just enough dressing to make every ribbon lightly glossy. This modest seasoning is the principle of the dish: mayonnaise will cloak the lobster, but it cannot reach down later and season the leaves. If dressing collects in the bottom of the bowl, lift the lettuce into a clean bowl and leave the excess behind.

6. 6

   Build the salad

   Spread the seasoned lettuce across the bottom of a broad salad bowl or oval platter. Lay the claw and knuckle meat over it, keeping the pieces loose rather than packing them down, then arrange the sliced tail over the top so its red-edged medallions remain visible. Spoon the mayonnaise generously over the lobster in a broad cloak. Do not stir the layers together; seasoned lettuce below, lobster meat above, sliced tail on top, and mayonnaise over all is the structure the original dish asks you to preserve.

7. 7

   Garnish and serve

   Arrange any or all of the anchovy strips, capers, olives, egg quarters, radish roundels, and lettuce hearts around and over the mayonnaise. Balance salt, colour, and shape, but do not chase a prescribed pattern; the classical instruction itself leaves the design to the cook. Bring the salad to the table while it is cool and freshly assembled. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Buy a whole cooked lobster rather than tail meat alone. The contrast between irregular claw and knuckle pieces beneath and clean tail medallions above is part of the original construction, not decoration added afterward.
• •A fishmonger-cooked lobster is the honest home equivalent to the cold larder the original recipe assumed. It should smell clean and briny, never strongly fishy, and its meat should be firm, moist, and thoroughly chilled before assembly.
• •Mayonnaise behaves best when the yolk, mustard, vinegar, and oil begin at similar temperatures. The first spoonfuls of oil require patience; once the emulsion has found its footing, the rest follows willingly.
• •Anchovy, capers, and olives all bring salt. Taste the mayonnaise and dressed lettuce before adding them, then use the garnish for contrast rather than covering every inch of the platter.
• •Pour a dry Chablis or Champagne. Both have enough freshness for the mayonnaise and enough composure for lobster, which is all the pairing needs to accomplish.

Advance Preparation

• •The mayonnaise may be made up to 24 hours ahead with a pasteurized yolk. Press food-safe wrap directly against its surface and keep it cold so no skin forms.
• •The lobster may be shelled and portioned up to 24 hours ahead. Store the claw and knuckle pieces separately from the tail medallions in tightly covered containers in the cold.
• •Wash and dry the lettuce earlier in the day, then wrap it loosely in a clean towel and refrigerate it. Do not season it until assembly.
• •Assemble the dish no more than 30 minutes before serving. Longer standing softens the lettuce and lets the salty garnishes bleed into the mayonnaise.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 250g)