Moulded Eggs à la Mortemart

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •8 shallow 2-ounce (60 ml) metal timbale or dariole moulds
• •Deep roasting pan for the bain-marie
• •10-inch (25 cm) nonstick or well-seasoned skillet
• •Flexible heatproof spatula
• •2 small saucepans
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Warm round serving dish and small sauceboat

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the moulds

   Heat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Use 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) of the butter to coat eight shallow 2-ounce (60 ml) timbale moulds thoroughly, reaching every corner and the full height of the sides. Lay one fine truffle round flat in the bottom of each mould, then arrange the moulds in a deep roasting pan. Heat enough water to fill the pan halfway up their sides.

2. 2

   Ready both sauces

   Warm the finished Purée de Champignons (No. 2079) very gently in a covered saucepan, stirring occasionally so its cream does not catch. Bring the veal demi-glace to a bare simmer in a second small pan and reduce it to about 1/3 cup (80 ml), until it lightly coats a spoon. Pull it from the heat before it grows sticky. If it tightens too far, loosen it with a teaspoon of water at a time; the finished glaze should pour in a glossy ribbon, not sit like paste.

3. 3

   Scramble five eggs

   Beat the five eggs with 1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) of the salt and the white pepper just until no streaks remain. Melt 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) of the butter in a 10-inch (25 cm) skillet over low heat, add the eggs, and stir constantly with a flexible spatula, sweeping the bottom and corners. Stop after 3 to 5 minutes, when small tender curds float in a glossy mass that still flows when the pan is tilted. If the edges begin setting firmly, lift the pan from the heat and scrape everything into a cool bowl at once. Ça se rattrape, provided the eggs are still moist; the hot skillet is what would finish the damage.

   These eggs should look underdone for the breakfast plate. The raw eggs and the bain-marie provide the second cooking, so firmness now is the one mistake the dish cannot hide.
4. 4

   Add the raw eggs

   Off the heat, fold the three beaten raw eggs and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) salt into the soft scramble until the mixture is even. Divide it immediately among the prepared moulds, filling each no more than three-quarters full. Tap each mould once against a folded towel to release large air pockets without dislodging the truffle.

5. 5

   Poach in bain-marie

   Set the roasting pan on the pulled-out middle oven rack, then pour the very hot water around the moulds until it reaches halfway up their sides. Slide the rack in gently and poach for 14 to 18 minutes. The water should barely quiver, never boil. The timbales are ready when their edges are set, their centres retain a slight tremble, and an instant-read thermometer reaches 160°F (71°C). If the centre is still liquid, give it 2 minutes more; judge in short intervals because these small moulds cross from tender to rubbery quickly.

6. 6

   Fill the tartlets

   During the final 5 minutes of poaching, set the baked tartlet shells on a tray in the oven to warm and crisp. Stir the mushroom purée and adjust its consistency if necessary; it should mound softly, so loosen it with a teaspoon of warm water if it has become stiff. Place the shells in a circle on a warmed round serving dish and spoon 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of Purée de Champignons (No. 2079) into each.

7. 7

   Unmould and serve

   Lift the timbale moulds from the water and let them stand for 1 minute. Run a thin knife around each edge, invert one squarely over every filled tartlet, and lift the mould straight up so the truffle appears on top. If one clings, cover the mould with a warm damp towel for 15 seconds and try again; never pull at the egg. Rewarm the reduced veal glaze without boiling, remove it from the heat, and swirl in the final 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) butter until glossy. Pour it into a warmed sauceboat and send it to the table beside the eggs. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Use eight small, shallow moulds rather than four large ones. The greater surface area lets the eggs set gently and evenly, while a deep ramekin leaves you choosing between a liquid centre and a rubbery edge.
• •A preserved whole black truffle is the classical pantry's honest answer when fresh truffle is not in season. Drain it well and cut true slices. Truffle oil cannot replace the dark, earthy bite beneath the egg.
• •Choose an unsalted or genuinely low-salt veal demi-glace. Reduction concentrates salt along with flavour, and an aggressively seasoned commercial glaze will overwhelm the eggs before it reaches the proper consistency.
• •Serve these as a first course with dry Champagne or a restrained white Burgundy. The wine needs enough freshness to meet the cream and butter without drowning the truffle.

Advance Preparation

• •The tartlet shells may be baked or purchased 1 day ahead and kept airtight at room temperature. Warm them briefly before filling so the pastry returns to crispness.
• •The finished Purée de Champignons (No. 2079) may be prepared up to 2 days ahead, chilled promptly, and reheated very gently. If it sets firmly in the cold, loosen it with a little warm water rather than more cream.
• •The demi-glace may be reduced earlier the same day, but mount it with the final butter only at serving time. Once buttered, boiling can make the glaze oily.
• •Scramble, mould, and poach the eggs at the last moment. They wait poorly, while the pastry, purée, and glaze are quite content to be prepared ahead.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 240g)