
Chef Juliette
Bombe Aboukir
Bombe Aboukir sets a pale pistachio ice shell around pralined pâte à bombe, cool, nutty, and cleanly sliceable, with chopped pistachios held in a centre as light as frozen mousse.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2901, Bombe Sélika, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Praline ice holds a pale Curaçao pâte à bombe at its centre, a frozen lesson in temperature: whip the yolks to a ribbon, cool them completely, then fold in cream without losing the air.
Bombe Sélika (a praline ice shell with a Curaçao pâte à bombe, or cooked yolk foam) teaches the discipline behind every frozen mousse: temperature is structure. The yolks and syrup must fall in a broad ribbon, then become completely cold before they meet whipped cream. Fold while the base is warm and the cream collapses; wait, and the centre freezes light enough to yield under the spoon.
The original entry is barely a sentence because its pastry kitchen already held pralined ice, Curaçao bombe preparation, metal moulds, and a dedicated freezing cabinet. At home, good vanilla ice cream becomes the pralined ice with freshly made pralin, a chilled metal bowl can replace the bombe mould, and the domestic freezer does the quiet work. Making a separate custard ice is brigade scaffolding we can set aside; clothing the mould evenly and building a properly cooled pâte à bombe are the dish, and they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Freeze the mould hard and soften the pralined ice only until it bends beneath a spatula, never until it melts. The step that decides everything comes later: cool the Curaçao base until the bowl itself no longer feels warm, then fold. If it is warm, stop and chill it. Ça se rattrape.
Bombe glacée belongs to the Parisian grand dessert table, where domed metal moulds gave a whole family of ices their name and praline, liqueur, fruit, and coffee supplied the contrasts. Sélika takes its name from the heroine of the grand opera L'Africaine, following the classical habit of naming elaborate desserts for theatrical figures. The curious cross-reference to Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916) is procedural, not a savoury ingredient: confectionery borrowed the same principle of clothing a cold mould with an even lining before filling its centre.
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 70 g)
Quantity
⅓ cup (80 ml / 67 g)
for the pralin
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
for the pralin
Quantity
2½ cups (600 ml / about 540 g)
softened until spreadable
Quantity
4
Quantity
⅓ cup (80 ml / 67 g)
for the pâte à bombe
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g)
for the pâte à bombe
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / about 43 g)
Quantity
1 cup (240 ml / 240 g)
Quantity
1 technique reference (No. 916)
used only for clothing the mould; no aspic enters the dessert
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed blanched almonds and skinned hazelnuts | ½ cup (120 ml / 70 g) |
| granulated sugarfor the pralin | ⅓ cup (80 ml / 67 g) |
| waterfor the pralin | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| premium vanilla ice creamsoftened until spreadable | 2½ cups (600 ml / about 540 g) |
| large egg yolks | 4 |
| granulated sugarfor the pâte à bombe | ⅓ cup (80 ml / 67 g) |
| waterfor the pâte à bombe | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) |
| dry Curaçao orange liqueur | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / about 43 g) |
| cold heavy cream | 1 cup (240 ml / 240 g) |
| Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Solesused only for clothing the mould; no aspic enters the dessert | 1 technique reference (No. 916) |
Put a 1½-quart (1.4 L) metal bombe mould or deep metal bowl in the coldest part of the freezer for at least 30 minutes. Chill a serving platter beside it. A frozen mould catches the pralined ice on contact, giving you an even shell instead of a puddle at the bottom.
Toast the almonds and hazelnuts in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant and lightly coloured, then tip them onto a plate. Put the sugar and water in a small saucepan and cook without stirring until the syrup becomes a deep amber caramel. If crystals gather at the edge, cover the pan for 30 seconds so condensation washes them down, then continue gently. Add the warm nuts, turn them through the caramel, and pour everything onto parchment to cool hard. Break it up and pulse it to a very fine sandy pralin that just begins to clump.
Fold the fine pralin through the softened vanilla ice cream until evenly distributed. Reserve about ¾ cup for sealing the base, then use Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916) as the technical reference for clothing: it supplies the principle of fixing an even coat against a cold mould. Here, press the pralined ice firmly over the bottom and sides with a chilled spoon or offset spatula, turning the mould as you work, until the shell is about ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick. Freeze it for 20 minutes, inspect for thin patches, and repair them before filling.
Bring the sugar and water for the pâte à bombe to a clear bubbling syrup in a small saucepan. Put the yolks in a heatproof bowl and begin whisking, then pour in the hot syrup in a thin thread down the side of the bowl. Set the bowl over barely simmering water, never letting its base touch the water, and whisk continuously until the mixture reaches 160°F (71°C), triples in volume, and falls from the whisk in a broad ribbon that rests briefly on the surface. If the yolks begin to look grainy, lift the bowl from the heat at once, whisk in 1 tablespoon of the cold cream, and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Ça se rattrape.
Remove the bowl from the heat and keep whisking until the pâte à bombe is completely cold, ideally no warmer than 70°F (21°C). Set the bowl over an ice bath if necessary, then whisk in the Curaçao. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the remaining cream and whip the rest to soft peaks. Fold one spoonful into the pâte à bombe as a test; if it melts and loosens immediately, stop, chill the base for 10 minutes, and try again. Once the base holds the cream, fold in the remainder in two additions with broad, deliberate strokes. If the cream was whipped too far and looks grainy, work in the reserved liquid cream before folding.
Spoon the Curaçao pâte à bombe into the frozen pralined shell, pressing it gently into the curve so no hollow pockets remain. Leave ½ inch (1.25 cm) clear at the top and freeze for 30 minutes, just until the filling firms enough to support its cap. Spread the reserved pralined ice over the centre, sealing it completely to the frozen edge of the shell. Smooth the base level, cover tightly, and freeze for at least 6 hours, or overnight.
Wrap the mould briefly in a towel dipped in lukewarm water, then invert it onto the chilled platter. Wait several seconds and lift straight up. If the bombe refuses to release, warm the sides for another 3 seconds rather than forcing it; if the surface softens too far, return the whole mould to the freezer for 20 minutes and begin again. Let the unmoulded bombe stand for 5 to 8 minutes, then cut it with a knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry between slices. The spoon should meet a firm praline shell and a lighter Curaçao centre. À table!
1 serving (about 140g)
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