Bombe Francillon

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1-quart (950 ml) metal bombe mould or deep round metal bowl
• •Small offset spatula
• •Small heavy saucepan
• •Heatproof mixing bowl
• •Hand mixer or stand mixer
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Fine-mesh sieve

Instructions

1. 1

   Chill the mould

   Set a 1-quart (950 ml) metal bombe mould or deep round bowl in the freezer for 20 minutes. Chill a small offset spatula with it. A cold mould catches the coffee ice immediately, giving you an even shell instead of a melted puddle at the bottom.

2. 2

   Clothe the mould

   Let the coffee ice cream soften only until a spoon can press through it, about 5 to 10 minutes. Use the clothing principle from Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916): press the coffee ice over the bottom and sides of the frozen mould in an even layer about ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick, turning the mould as you work. Freeze for 20 minutes, inspect the shell for thin spots, patch them with the remaining coffee ice, then freeze for another 30 minutes. If part of the shell slides, it became too warm. Ça se rattrape: freeze it for 10 minutes, then press the slipped section back into place.

   The aspic reference supplies a moulding technique, not a fish component. The old kitchen rocked jelly over broken ice; the home equivalent is a thoroughly frozen metal bowl and two short freezing stages.
3. 3

   Make the syrup

   Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan. Warm gently until the sugar dissolves, then bring it to a quiet boil without stirring and cook for 1 minute, just until the syrup is perfectly clear. Remove it from the heat and let the fiercest bubbling subside for 30 seconds.

4. 4

   Cook the pâte à bombe

   Whisk the yolks in a heatproof bowl until loosened. Pour in the hot syrup in a very thin stream, whisking constantly, then set the bowl over a saucepan of water held at the barest tremble; the bowl must not touch the water. Whisk for 4 to 6 minutes, lifting the bowl away whenever the heat feels aggressive, until the mixture is pale, thick, holds a ribbon for several seconds, and reaches 160°F (71°C). This is the step that decides the dish. Hurry it and you have sweetened egg. If a grainy ring begins forming at the edge, remove the bowl at once, whisk it over ice-water for 20 seconds, and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Ça se rattrape. Firm curds mean the yolks have gone too far and must be started again.

   Keep the water below a boil and move the whisk into the corners of the bowl. Most curdling begins at the hot rim, not in the centre.
5. 5

   Cool and scent

   Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk with a hand mixer for 5 to 7 minutes, until the pâte à bombe has cooled to room temperature, grown light, and falls from the beaters in a broad ribbon. Beat in the liqueur-brandy only after the mixture has cooled, preserving its aroma instead of driving it off with heat.

6. 6

   Fold in cream

   Whip the cold heavy cream to soft peaks. Fold one-third into the pâte à bombe to loosen it, then fold in the remainder with broad strokes, turning the bowl until no white streaks remain. The finished preparation should be airy but substantial enough to mound from the spatula. If it slumps because the yolk base was still warm, set the bowl over ice and fold gently until it thickens; don't keep whipping, or the cream will turn grainy.

7. 7

   Fill and freeze

   Scrape the preparation into the coffee-lined mould, pressing it lightly against the shell so no large air pockets remain. Level the exposed surface, cover it directly with parchment and then wrap the mould well. Freeze in the coldest part of the freezer for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. This long set is part of the dish, not waiting-room time; the centre must freeze firmly enough to slice while remaining creamy.

8. 8

   Unmould and slice

   Chill the serving platter. Remove the wrapping and hold a warm, damp towel around the mould for 5 to 10 seconds, then invert it onto the platter. If it refuses to release, apply the towel for another 3 seconds rather than forcing it. If the outside softens or smears, return the bombe to the freezer for 15 minutes. Cut with a thin knife dipped in hot water and wiped completely dry between slices. Serve at once. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose a dense coffee ice cream without chocolate pieces, caramel ribbons, or crunchy additions. The shell must spread evenly and cut cleanly; embellishments only tear it.
• •Liqueur-brandy means a fine sipping brandy, and a mellow Cognac is the clearest choice. Don't replace it with a cream liqueur, which brings extra sugar and water and leaves the centre too soft.
• •An instant-read thermometer removes guesswork from the pâte à bombe, but the ribbon still matters. At 160°F (71°C), it should fall broadly from the whisk and remain visible on the surface for several seconds.
• •Use real heavy cream with at least 35 percent fat. Whipped toppings freeze coarse and collapse into the yolk base; cream gives the centre its fine, close texture.
• •Serve the Francillon with small glasses of Cognac or unsweetened coffee. It needs no sauce and no ornamental garnish; the cut face supplies all the theatre required.

Advance Preparation

• •The coffee ice shell can be formed up to 2 days ahead. Wrap the mould tightly once the shell is hard so it doesn't collect freezer odours.
• •Complete the bombe at least 6 hours before serving. It holds well for up to 3 days, tightly wrapped, though its texture is finest during the first 2 days.
• •Unmould only when the table is ready for dessert. If necessary, return the unmoulded bombe to the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes before slicing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 110g)