Bombe Aboukir

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1.25-liter stainless-steel bombe mould or deep bowl
• •Stand mixer with whisk attachment
• •Small heavy saucepan
• •Instant-read or sugar thermometer
• •Flexible spatula and small offset spatula
• •Long slicing knife
• •Chilled serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Clothe the mould

   Freeze a 1.25-liter stainless-steel bombe mould or deep bowl for 30 minutes. Let the pistachio ice stand just until a spoon can move through it, about 8 to 10 minutes, without allowing the edges to melt. The book borrows the clothing action from Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916): here the reference governs only the even coating of the mould. No aspic or fish enters the dessert. Press the pistachio ice over the bottom and sides in an even layer about 3/8 inch (1 cm) thick, carrying it cleanly to the rim. Patch any bare metal now, then freeze the lined mould for at least 1 hour, until hard.

   If the ice cream begins turning glossy or pooling at the edge, stop and return both mould and ice cream to the freezer for 10 minutes. A soft shell cannot hold a clean line.
2. 2

   Ready cold components

   Whip the cold cream to soft peaks that curl gently from the whisk, then refrigerate it. Keep the chopped pistachios in the cold as well. Stir the almond pralin until smooth, but never heat it to make it fluid; if it is stiff, you will loosen it with cooled pâte à bombe. Warm pralin slackens the cream and gives the frozen centre a wet, heavy texture.

3. 3

   Cook the pâte

   Put the yolks in the mixer bowl and beat at low speed until smooth. Combine the sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan, stirring over gentle heat only until the sugar dissolves. Stop stirring and boil the syrup to 244°F (118°C). If crystals gather on the pan wall, cover the pan for 30 seconds so condensation washes them down, then uncover and continue. Ça se rattrape. With the mixer running slowly, pour the hot syrup in a thin stream down the inside of the bowl, never onto the moving whisk. Raise the speed and whip for 6 to 8 minutes, until the pâte à bombe is pale, very thick, and falls from the whisk in a ribbon while the bowl feels cool.

4. 4

   Praline and cool

   Fold about one-quarter of the cooled pâte à bombe into the pralin to loosen it, then fold that mixture back into the remaining pâte à bombe. Check the underside of the bowl. The mixture must be no warmer than 70°F (21°C) before the cream enters. If it still carries warmth, set the bowl over ice and fold slowly until cool, then remove it from the ice. Do not hurry this point. Temperature is the structure of the dessert.

5. 5

   Fold the filling

   Fold one-third of the whipped cream into the pralined base to lighten it, then fold in the remainder in two additions with broad strokes from the bottom of the bowl. Add the refrigerator-cold chopped pistachios last. The filling should hold a soft mound on the spatula. If it turns loose and shiny, stop and set the bowl over ice for 5 to 10 minutes, folding gently until it regains body. Ça se rattrape. Never pour a runny filling into the shell, because it will settle densely and weep when sliced.

6. 6

   Fill and freeze

   Take the pistachio-lined mould from the freezer and spoon in the pralined filling, pressing each addition lightly against the shell so no large air pockets remain. Level the surface just below the rim and cover it directly with parchment or reusable freezer wrap. Freeze for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight, until the centre is completely firm.

7. 7

   Unmould and serve

   Chill the serving platter. Dip the mould up to its rim in warm, not hot, water for 5 seconds, dry the outside, and invert it onto the platter. If the bombe clings, repeat for only 2 seconds; if the shell starts softening before it releases, return the mould to the freezer for 20 minutes and begin again. Let the unmoulded bombe stand for 5 minutes, then slice with a long knife dipped in warm water and wiped dry between cuts. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose dense pistachio ice cream with a natural pale-green colour and a clean roasted-nut flavour. Avoid airy tubs and large nut pieces, which leave holes in the shell and make an even lining difficult.
• •Use true almond pralin, made from caramelized almonds ground to a smooth paste, rather than plain almond butter. The caramel is not decoration; it is the flavour that makes the filling pralined.
• •The hot syrup cooks and stabilizes the yolks, but use pasteurized yolks when serving pregnant guests, older diners, young children, or anyone with reduced immunity.
• •Keep the finished bombe in the coldest part of the freezer, well wrapped so it cannot absorb other aromas. Move it to the refrigerator for no more than 10 minutes before unmoulding if your freezer runs especially cold.
• •Serve with strong coffee or a small glass of demi-sec Champagne. The bombe needs no sauce, piped cream, or decoration; the cut layers are its finish.

Advance Preparation

• •The pistachio-lined mould can be prepared a day ahead. Freeze it until hard, then cover it closely so the shell does not collect frost or freezer aromas.
• •Complete the bombe the evening before serving and freeze it overnight. It keeps well for up to 3 days when tightly covered, though the shell has its cleanest texture during the first 2 days.
• •The pistachios may be chopped earlier in the day and refrigerated. Measure the pralin at the same time, but keep it cool and spoonable rather than warming it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 138g)