Opera Charlotte

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •6-inch by 4-inch (15 cm by 10 cm), 1.2-litre metal charlotte mould or straight-sided soufflé dish
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Clean lint-free kitchen towel
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Electric hand mixer or balloon whisk
• •Large bowl for an ice-water bath
• •Flexible heatproof spatula

Instructions

1. 1

   Macerate the salpicon

   Combine the candied fruit salpicon with the Maraschino and leave it for 30 minutes, stirring once so every piece is scented. Tip it into a fine sieve and drain for at least 10 minutes, pressing gently with the back of a spoon. Spread the fruit on a clean towel and blot it firmly. If it still glistens with loose syrup, drain and blot again. Ça se rattrape now; once that syrup reaches the Bavarois, it slackens the entire set.

2. 2

   Line the mould

   Fit sugar wafers across the bottom of a 1.2-litre charlotte mould, cutting neat pieces to close the gaps. Trim enough wafers to the mould’s height and stand them tightly around the side, edge to edge rather than overlapping; reserve the remaining wafers to cover the filled mould. Do not soak or brush them with liqueur. The salpicon alone is macerated, and the dry wafer shell provides the contrast the dish needs.

   A slightly tapered metal charlotte mould holds the upright wafers most easily. In a straight soufflé dish, pack them snugly and support any wandering wafer with a neighboring one.
3. 3

   Bloom the gelatin

   Sprinkle the powdered gelatin evenly over the cold water and leave it undisturbed for 10 minutes. Every grain must absorb water before heating; dry islands of gelatin become rubbery specks that no whisk can smooth later.

4. 4

   Cook the crème anglaise

   Put the milk, vanilla seeds, and pod in a small saucepan. Bring the milk just to the first movement below a simmer, cover, and infuse for 10 minutes, then remove the pod. Whisk the yolks with the sugar and salt until smooth, pour in the hot milk gradually while whisking, and return everything to low heat. Stir constantly with a flexible spatula until the crème anglaise, the stirred custard base, reaches 180 to 183°F (82 to 84°C) and coats the spatula in a thin, even film. Never let it boil. If a few fine curds appear, remove it from the heat immediately, blend briefly, and strain; large scrambled pieces mean the custard went too far and must be remade.

5. 5

   Cool the custard

   Take the custard off the heat, add the bloomed gelatin, and stir until completely dissolved. Strain it into a clean bowl, then set that bowl over ice water and stir until the custard cools to about 77°F (25°C), thickening just enough to leave a soft trace. Do not let it set solid. If gelatin catches around the bowl’s edge, set the bowl briefly over lukewarm water and whisk until smooth again.

6. 6

   Fold the Bavarois

   Whip the cold cream to soft peaks that bend at their tips. Fold one third into the cooled custard to lighten it, then fold in the remainder gently. Measure 3 cups (720 ml) of this vanilla Bavarois into a clean bowl, setting any small excess in a ramekin. Stir a spoonful of Bavarois into the chestnut purée until smooth, then fold that mixture into the measured Bavarois. This keeps the source’s exact proportion: one part candied chestnut purée to four parts Bavarois by volume. Fold in the dry salpicon last. If the fruit sinks at once, chill the bowl for 5 minutes and fold once more when the mixture holds a ribbon.

7. 7

   Fill and chill

   Spoon the mixture into the wafer-lined mould in three additions, pressing it carefully toward the edges without crushing the wafers. Level the surface and cover it with the reserved wafers; this becomes the base after unmoulding. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 1/2 hours, until the centre remains still when the mould is gently tilted. Keep it in the cold until serving.

8. 8

   Unmould and serve

   Set a chilled serving plate over the mould and invert both together. Lift the mould straight up. If it refuses, press a warm, well-wrung towel against the outside for 5 seconds and try again; too much warmth melts the outer Bavarois and softens the wafers. If the charlotte feels too soft to stand, return it to the mould and chill for another hour. Cut with a thin knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry between slices. Serve cold. À table!

Chef Tips

• •The source specifically calls for Huntley and Palmer’s sugar wafers. When they aren't available, choose thin, plain, unfilled wafers that snap cleanly and carry little flavor; a fatty cream-filled wafer softens against the Bavarois and changes the balance.
• •Use smooth sweetened purée de marrons glacés or crème de marrons, not unsweetened chestnut purée. The volume governs the source’s quarter-bulk ratio, while the listed weight is an approximate guide because brands vary in density.
• •Keep the salpicon small and even. Large pieces tear the slice, while syrup left clinging to the dice weakens the gelatin and migrates into the wafers. Drain first, blot second, then fold.
• •The charlotte is best after 6 to 18 hours in the cold, when the Bavarois is fully set but the wafers still retain a little crispness. Serve it with coffee or a small glass of Maraschino, nothing more.

Advance Preparation

• •The candied fruit can be macerated, thoroughly drained, and refrigerated in a covered container up to 12 hours before assembly. Blot it once more before folding.
• •Assemble the charlotte 6 to 18 hours before serving and keep it in its mould. Beyond 24 hours the filling remains good, but the wafer shell progressively softens.
• •Do not freeze the finished charlotte. Freezing damages the Bavarois texture and can make the gelatin weep as it thaws.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 150g)