Charlotte Montreuil

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •8-inch (20 cm) springform pan with sides at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) high
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Electric mixer or sturdy balloon whisk
• •Blender or food processor
• •Large bowl for an ice-water bath

Instructions

1. 1

   Macerate the peaches

   Toss the sliced peaches gently with the 2 tablespoons of sugar and place them in a sieve over a bowl for 30 minutes. The sugar draws out the loose juice that would otherwise dilute the bavarois and make the finished charlotte weep. Let the slices drain without pressing, then blot any visibly wet surfaces with a clean cloth or paper towel. They should remain supple and glossy, but they must not drip.

   If the peaches are still releasing a stream of juice after 30 minutes, give them another 10 minutes in the sieve. Patience here protects the entire set.
2. 2

   Line the mould

   Arrange the ladyfingers snugly across the bottom of an 8-inch (20 cm) springform pan, trimming pieces only where needed to close the gaps. Stand more biscuits around the sides with their rounded ends pointing upward and their sugared faces toward the pan wall. Pack them closely enough to form a palisade, but do not crush them. The bought biscuits are the honest home equivalent of a brigade's freshly baked trays, and their dry texture will soften properly against the bavarois.

3. 3

   Bloom the gelatin

   Sprinkle the powdered gelatin evenly over the cold water in a small bowl. Leave it untouched for 10 minutes, until every grain has absorbed water and the mixture resembles a firm translucent sponge. Dry pockets of gelatin become hard pellets later, so sprinkle broadly rather than dropping the powder in one heap.

4. 4

   Cook the crème anglaise

   Heat the milk with the vanilla pod and seeds until bubbles gather at the edge, then remove it from the heat and cover for 5 minutes. Whisk the yolks with the 1/2 cup of sugar until smooth and slightly pale. Pour in the hot milk gradually while whisking, return everything to the saucepan, and cook over low heat with constant stirring until the crème anglaise reaches 180 to 183°F (82 to 84°C) and holds a clean line drawn through it on the back of the spoon. Do not let it boil. At the first sign of graininess, pull the pan from the heat and blend briefly before straining. Ça se rattrape when the curds are tiny; fully scrambled custard must be remade. Strain immediately and measure exactly 2 cups (480 ml), reserving any spoonful left over. Stir the bloomed gelatin into the hot measured custard until completely dissolved.

   Keep the spoon moving across the corners and floor of the saucepan, where the yolks catch first. The custard should thicken softly, never boil or become as firm as pastry cream.
5. 5

   Add peach and cool

   Whisk the exactly measured peach purée into the warm crème anglaise. Set the bowl over a larger bowl of ice water and stir slowly until the mixture feels cool and begins to hold the faint trace of the whisk, about 72 to 75°F (22 to 24°C). This slight thickening suspends the cream instead of letting it sink. If the gelatin sets around the rim before the centre is ready, lift the bowl from the ice and set it briefly over barely warm water, stirring until smooth again. Do not heat it beyond fluidity.

6. 6

   Fold the cream

   Whip the cold cream to soft peaks, the crème fouettée (softly whipped cream) that bends at the tip rather than standing stiff. Fold one quarter into the peach base to lighten it, then fold in the remainder with broad strokes from the bottom of the bowl. Stop as soon as the colour is even. If the base feels warm enough to melt the cream, set it over the ice for another minute before folding; cream lost to warmth cannot give the bavarois its lightness.

7. 7

   Fill the charlotte

   Spoon one third of the peach bavarois into the biscuit-lined pan and spread it into every gap without disturbing the biscuits. Lay over half the drained peach slices, keeping them just inside the biscuit wall. Repeat with another third of bavarois and the remaining slices, then cover with the final third. Smooth the top and tap the pan once, gently, against a folded cloth to settle hidden air pockets. Do not keep tapping or the fruit will fall to the bottom.

8. 8

   Chill and unmould

   Cover the pan without touching the surface and chill for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. Release the springform ring only when the centre feels firmly set; if one section clings, press a cloth wrung out in warm water against that spot for 3 seconds and try again. Transfer the charlotte to a serving platter and cut it with a thin knife wiped clean between slices. Keep it cold until serving, especially outdoors. À table!

Chef Tips

• •This dish needs fragrant peaches. If the fruit is hard and scentless, wait for its season or make a charlotte aux poires instead. Frozen peaches can supply a sound purée, but they cannot replace the ripe sliced fruit that defines Montreuil.
• •Choose dry, crisp ladyfingers rather than soft sponge fingers. The bavarois supplies all the moisture they need during the long chill; biscuits that begin soft can collapse before the charlotte reaches the table.
• •Weigh the gelatin because packet and sheet sizes vary. Twelve grams gives a tender set that slices cleanly without turning the bavarois rubbery.
• •Use real dairy cream with at least 35 percent fat and stop whipping at soft peaks. Stiff cream folds poorly and leaves white lumps through the peach base.
• •For an outdoor dinner, carry the charlotte in its closed springform pan inside a chilled container and unmould it shortly before dessert. Do not leave this egg-and-cream dessert unrefrigerated for more than 2 hours, or more than 1 hour in very hot weather.

Advance Preparation

• •Assemble the Charlotte Montreuil the evening before serving and leave it covered in the cold overnight. The set becomes more even, and the inner faces of the ladyfingers soften without losing their shape.
• •The finished charlotte keeps well for about 36 hours in the refrigerator. After that, the peaches begin releasing more liquid and the biscuit case loses its definition.
• •Do not macerate the sliced peaches a day ahead. Sugar and drain them shortly before assembly so they remain distinct rather than becoming soft and watery.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 230g)