
Chef Juliette
Various Almond Preparations
Five almond preparations, one discipline: remove the skins cleanly, dry every kernel through, then cut, toast, or cloak it in pale caramel without letting its fragrant oils escape.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2436, Apple Charlotte, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Butter-dipped croûtons bake into a crisp bronze shell around lemon-and-cinnamon russet apple purée, domed high before baking so the Charlotte settles full and unmoulds with its case intact.
Charlotte aux pommes (apple pudding baked in a buttered bread case) teaches structure before sweetness. The one true thing to know is this: the apple purée must be stiff enough to hold a mound before it enters the mould. A loose compote will soak the croûtons and push through their seams, no matter how neatly you cut them.
The original says meanwhile, assuming spare pastry hands could shape bread while someone else watched the apples. For one cook, the concurrency goes, not the technique: line the mould first, then cook the filling. The source's quart mould is already a generous six-serving home scale, so its volume stays; twelve small russets become a weight because market apples do not keep a uniform size, a four-cup ovenproof pudding basin may replace the specialist mould, and thick smooth apricot preserves stand in for a waiting pot of stewed apricots. A 350°F home oven is the honest equivalent of a good moderate oven.
The specialist mould and simultaneous work are brigade scaffolding. The butter-dipped croûtons, overlapping seams, dry filling, and projecting dome are the dish, and they stay. Baked correctly, the bread becomes a crisp, butter-gold case around fragrant apple, while the high dome settles level rather than leaving the Charlotte hollow. One cook, one stove, one evening. Reduce the apples until a spoonful stands in a mound; that is the step that decides whether the case stands.
Charlotte aux pommes belongs to the Parisian classical dessert repertory, but its bread-lined apple form crossed from the English table before French cooks regularized it in the high-sided Charlotte mould. Across generations it moved easily between bourgeois homes and the pastry station because stale fine-crumbed bread, butter, and cooked apples made refinement from ordinary stores. It is often confused with charlotte russe, but that cold cream-filled cousin has a different structure; this Charlotte is baked, and its crisp case is the point.
Quantity
8 ounces (225 g)
cut from an unsliced loaf, crusts removed
Quantity
¾ cup (180 ml / 170 g)
melted
Quantity
6 to 8 medium apples, 3 pounds (1.35 kg) whole, yielding about 2 pounds 6 ounces (1.1 kg) prepared
quartered, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 25 g)
Quantity
6 wide strips from ½ lemon
white pith removed
Quantity
1 small stick, about 3 inches (7.5 cm)
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 55 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| day-old pain de mie crumb for the croûtonscut from an unsliced loaf, crusts removed | 8 ounces (225 g) |
| unsalted butter for the mould and croûtonsmelted | ¾ cup (180 ml / 170 g) |
| russet applesquartered, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced | 6 to 8 medium apples, 3 pounds (1.35 kg) whole, yielding about 2 pounds 6 ounces (1.1 kg) prepared |
| unsalted butter for cooking the apples | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| caster sugar | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 25 g) |
| lemon zestwhite pith removed | 6 wide strips from ½ lemon |
| cinnamon stick | 1 small stick, about 3 inches (7.5 cm) |
| thick stewed apricot purée, or smooth apricot preserves | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 55 g) |
Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C) with a rack in the lower third. Brush the inside of a 1-quart (1-liter) Charlotte mould copiously with some of the melted butter, leaving a visible coating in every crease. Tie the lemon zest and cinnamon together in a small square of cheesecloth to make a paquet d'aromates, an aromatic bundle that can be removed cleanly when the apples are ready.
Slice the pain de mie crumb ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Cut 7 or 8 hearts about 2 inches (5 cm) wide for the bottom, then cut 12 to 14 rectangles about 1½ inches (4 cm) wide and exactly as tall as the mould. Dip each croûton briefly in melted butter and let the excess fall away. Arrange the hearts across the bottom with their points toward the centre, slightly overlapping, then line the sides with overlapping rectangles. Press each seam gently and patch every glimpse of bare mould with a buttered scrap. If the panels begin sliding, chill the lined mould for 5 minutes so the butter firms, then press them back into place. The butter is structural here: it holds the lining before baking and fries the bread against the mould afterward.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) butter in a wide sauté pan over medium heat. Add the sliced apples, caster sugar, and paquet d'aromates. Cook uncovered, turning the apples regularly, until they release their juice, soften, and begin collapsing, about 20 minutes. Add no water. If the slices catch before softening, lower the heat and cover the pan for 2 minutes so their own moisture can free them, then uncover and continue.
Continue cooking over medium-low heat, stirring and pressing the fruit with a wooden spoon, until the apples become a coarse, very thick purée, about 15 to 25 minutes more. Draw the spoon across the pan: the path should remain open for several seconds, and a spoonful dropped onto a plate should stand rather than spread. Remove the paquet d'aromates, then fold in the stewed apricot purée or smooth apricot preserves. If the mixture slumps, keep reducing it before filling the mould. Ça se rattrape. If the bottom begins to scorch, transfer the unburnt purée to a clean pan without scraping the caught layer and finish the reduction there.
Spoon the warm apple purée into the lined mould in several additions, pressing lightly to remove large air pockets without disturbing the bread. Continue filling above the rim and shape the mixture into a centred dome about 1 inch (2.5 cm) high. This projecting dome is not decoration. The apples settle in the oven, and a level filling now produces a hollow Charlotte later.
Set the mould on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 30 to 35 minutes. The visible bread edges should be deep butter-gold, the apple dome should feel set, and a little melted butter may glisten around the rim. If the bread darkens too quickly before the filling has settled, shield only the rim with a loose collar of foil and finish the baking.
Rest the Charlotte in its mould for 10 minutes. Too soon and the filling can push the warm case apart; too long and the cooling butter may fasten the bread back to the mould. Loosen only the upper edge with a thin knife. Set a serving platter over the mould, grip both securely with dry oven mitts, and invert them in one confident motion. Leave the mould in place for 30 seconds, then lift it straight up. If it clings, wait another minute; if one croûton remains behind, ease it free and press it back into its seam while warm. Cut the Charlotte into generous wedges and serve warm. À table!
1 serving (about 190g)
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