Choux au Fromage

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy half-sheet pan
• •Large piping bag with ⅝-inch (15 mm) plain tip and ½-inch (12 mm) star tip
• •Heavy-bottomed 1½-quart saucepan
• •Small serrated knife
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Pipe the choux

   Heat a conventional oven to 375°F (190°C), or a fan oven to 340°F (170°C), and line a heavy half-sheet pan with parchment. Fit a large piping bag with a ⅝-inch (15 mm) plain tip and fill it with the Ramequins and Gougère Paste (No. 2375). Pipe 16 upright mounds about 1¾ inches (4.5 cm) wide, a little larger than the choux used for Saint-Honoré, leaving at least 2 inches (5 cm) between them. Smooth each peak with a fingertip dipped in water so it doesn't scorch before the rest has browned.

2. 2

   Gild and bake

   Beat the single egg with the teaspoon of water, then gild the choux by brushing their tops and sides lightly with the egg wash. Keep it from running onto the parchment, where it can glue the base and hinder the rise. Bake without opening the door for the first 20 minutes, then continue for 7 to 10 minutes, until the choux stand high, feel firm, and wear a deep, even gold rather than a timid blond.

3. 3

   Dry them hollow

   Lower the oven to 325°F (160°C), or 285°F (140°C) fan. Pierce the side of each choux with a skewer to release trapped moisture, then return them to the oven for 10 to 15 minutes. A finished shell sounds hollow when tapped and feels crisp underneath. Cool completely on a rack. If the shells soften as they cool, don't fill them yet. Ça se rattrape: split or repierce them and bake at 325°F (160°C) for another 5 to 8 minutes, then cool again. A shell already sunken won't become tall again, but its dried halves will still hold the fillings beautifully beneath the cap.

   Colour alone lies. The hollow knock and dry interior tell you the choux are ready to receive a moist filling.
4. 4

   Make the fondue

   Combine the Gruyère, three eggs, and butter in a cold, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Set it over low heat and stir continuously, scraping the bottom and corners, until the butter and cheese melt into the eggs and the Fondue au fromage becomes thick, glossy, and cohesive, about 6 to 9 minutes. It should hold soft folds and reach 162°F (72°C), but it must never boil. Stir in the cayenne. If beads of butter appear around the edge, pull the pan from the heat and whisk in 1 teaspoon of the measured cold cream while cooling the base of the pan in cold water. Ça se rattrape. Scrape the fondue into a shallow bowl, cover its surface directly, and chill until cool and spoonable, about 30 minutes.

5. 5

   Whip the Chantilly

   Reserve 2 tablespoons of the cold cream, then whip the remainder in a cold bowl until it holds soft peaks. Fold in the finely grated Parmesan and continue whisking just until the Parmesan Chantilly holds a clean, medium-firm peak suitable for piping. Stop there. If it begins to look grainy, fold in the reserved cream a teaspoon at a time until smooth again. Transfer it to the cleaned piping bag fitted with a ½-inch (12 mm) star tip and keep it cold.

6. 6

   Fill and crown

   Only when the choux are completely cold, cut off their top quarter with a small serrated knife and keep each cap beside its shell. Beat the chilled fondue briefly to restore its softness, then spoon a generous layer into every shell. If it is too firm, let it stand for 10 minutes; if it slumps, chill it for another 15. Pipe a full rosette of Parmesan Chantilly over the fondue and settle the caps lightly on top. Arrange the choux on a platter and serve within 45 minutes, while the shells still answer the teeth with a proper crisp bite. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Use the Ramequins and Gougère Paste (No. 2375), not ordinary sweet pâte à choux. The cheese already carried by that referenced paste is part of the book's construction; it isn't brigade scaffolding to be discarded.
• •Grate both cheeses finely from the block. Pre-grated cheese is often coated to keep its strands separate, precisely the opposite of what you want in a smooth fondue and a light Chantilly.
• •A pale choux is almost always a damp choux. Give the shells full colour, pierce them, and complete the lower-temperature drying before judging them.
• •Serve four per person with brut Champagne or a dry white wine. They are rich, but they should never feel heavy when the shells are properly dried and the Chantilly is stopped at soft, airy peaks.
• •Filled choux dislike waiting. Their flavour remains good in the cold, but the fondue steadily lends moisture to the shells, so assemble them as close to serving as your evening allows.

Advance Preparation

• •Bake and dry the unfilled shells up to 6 hours ahead. Cool them completely and keep them airtight; if they soften, refresh them for 5 to 7 minutes at 325°F (160°C), then cool before filling.
• •The Fondue au fromage can be prepared a day ahead and chilled with its surface covered. Let it stand for about 10 minutes, then beat it smooth before filling.
• •The Parmesan Chantilly can be made up to 2 hours ahead and kept cold in its piping bag. Assemble the choux no more than 45 minutes before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 250g)