
Chef Juliette
Haricots Blancs à l’Américaine (Lima Beans)
Lima beans, lean bacon, and tomato sauce show the quiet discipline of binding: cook the beans gently, drain them thoroughly, and coat each one until glossy, never soupy.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2168, Véronique (Laver), from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Véronique proves that restraint can be a complete technique: cooked Atlantic laver, warmed without boiling and bound with just enough Sauce Espagnole to stand as a glossy, firm purée beside a roast.
Véronique (cooked laver bound with Sauce Espagnole) teaches a small, exact lesson: when a finished sauce binds a vegetable, the sauce is a measure, not a bath. The laver must remain itself, dark, saline, and softly textured, while the Espagnole gives it body and a quiet gloss.
The original entry assumed two conveniences: English markets selling the laver already cooked, and good Sauce Espagnole standing ready. Behind that sauce stood a saucier and a stockpot never off the fire. At home, you need plain cooked laver, one measured portion of finished Sauce Espagnole prepared separately, and a small heavy pan. The dedicated station was brigade scaffolding and can go. The roux-darkened, stock-built sauce is the foundation and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Warm the two together gently and add the sauce in stages. The step that matters most is the final spoonful: stop as soon as the Véronique holds a soft mound and a furrow drawn through it closes slowly.
Laver belongs especially to the Welsh coast, where the tender Atlantic seaweed is washed and cooked for hours into the dark purée called laverbread; English markets sold it in that already-cooked form. This French classical entry adopts that market preparation rather than pretending it is a native regional vegetable, then brings it into service with Sauce Espagnole. Although Véronique elsewhere in the canon is familiar as a grape garnish, this entry explicitly names laver, so the seaweed and Espagnole, not grapes, govern the preparation.
Quantity
1¼ cups (300 ml / 300 g)
drained only if loose packing liquid is present
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 125 g), plus up to 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 32 g) if needed
divided
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain cooked Atlantic laver (laverbread)drained only if loose packing liquid is present | 1¼ cups (300 ml / 300 g) |
| good Sauce Espagnoledivided | ½ cup (120 ml / 125 g), plus up to 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 32 g) if needed |
Spoon the cooked laver into a small heavy saucepan. If loose packing liquid surrounds it, let that liquid drain away, but don't squeeze the laver dry; its soft body belongs in the purée. Break up any compact lumps with a wooden spoon. If the Sauce Espagnole is chilled and gelled, cut through it several times with a spoon so it will melt evenly.
Add ¼ cup (60 ml / about 63 g) of the Sauce Espagnole to the laver and set the pan over medium-low heat. Fold steadily from the bottom as the sauce loosens and surrounds the seaweed. When the first lazy bubble appears at the edge, lower the heat; both components are already cooked, so the work here is binding and warming, not boiling.
Add the remaining Sauce Espagnole one tablespoon at a time, letting each addition warm through before judging the next. Stop when the Véronique is glossy, holds a low mound on the spoon, and leaves a furrow that closes slowly when you draw the spoon across the pan. If it becomes loose, don't pour it away. Ça se rattrape: hold it uncovered over the gentlest heat and fold constantly until the excess moisture cooks away. If it is too stiff, loosen it with another spoonful of Sauce Espagnole.
Fold the Véronique over gentle heat for another minute, just until evenly hot and gleaming. Taste before reaching for seasoning, since cooked laver and finished Espagnole may already carry all the salt required. Spoon it into a warmed side dish without molding or decorating it, and serve beside roast beef, lamb, or another plainly roasted meat. À table!
1 serving (about 110g)
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