Sprew with Butter (Pointes d’Asperges)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •4-quart (3.8 L) saucepan
• •Wide 10-inch (25 cm) skillet
• •Fine colander or large sieve
• •Wire skimmer
• •Plain kitchen string
• •1-quart (950 ml) timbale or deep serving bowl

Instructions

1. 1

   Cut tips and stalks

   Rinse the asparagus and cut away only the woody bases. Cut the upper 2 inches (5 cm) from every spear, align the tips in four equal bundles, and tie each bundle loosely around the middle with kitchen string. Dice the remaining tender green stalks into pea-sized pieces, about ¼ inch (6 mm), discarding anything fibrous. Wash the diced pieces once more, as the source directs, and drain them.

   Tie the bundles only firmly enough to keep the tips aligned. A tight knot bruises the heads and prevents the water from circulating between them.
2. 2

   Boil the tip bundles

   Bring the water and salt to a full rolling boil in a large saucepan. Lower in the tied tip bundles and keep the water boiling hard, adjusting the heat only if it threatens to spill over. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the cut ends yield to a knife point with faint resistance and the heads remain upright. Lift the bundles out with a skimmer and drain them on a clean towel. Do not chill them in water; this dish is served at once, and added moisture works against the butter.

3. 3

   Cook the diced stalks

   Let the water return to a vigorous boil, then plunge in the diced stalks. Cook them quickly, 1 to 2 minutes depending on their thickness, until tender but still distinct under the teeth. The large volume of boiling water is what holds their colour; a small pot that loses its boil leaves them simmering toward olive green. Drain immediately and shake the colander firmly for several seconds.

4. 4

   Evaporate every drop

   Tip the diced asparagus into a completely dry wide skillet over medium-high heat. Toss continuously for 30 to 60 seconds, just until the visible droplets disappear and the sound changes from a wet sputter to a dry whisper. Do not let the pieces brown. If water pools, drain them once more and return them to the pan; if a piece begins to colour, lift the pan from the heat immediately. Dry, bright, and tender is the mark.

   This brief dry toss is not sautéing. No fat enters the pan yet; its only purpose is to remove the water that would dilute the butter finish.
5. 5

   Bind off the flame

   Take the skillet fully off the flame and set it on a cold burner. Hold back one piece of butter, then add the other five pieces one at a time, tossing after each addition until the diced asparagus wears a thin, creamy glaze. If the butter turns clear and gathers in a greasy puddle, the pan was still too hot. Ça se rattrape. Transfer the asparagus to a cool bowl, add the cold water and reserved butter, and toss briskly until the coating comes together; work any loose butter back in a teaspoon at a time. If the glaze forms properly, add the reserved piece normally. Roll the tied tip bundles gently through the finished butter, then lift them out and remove the string.

6. 6

   Dish in the timbale

   Spoon the diced asparagus into a warmed, thoroughly dried timbale or deep serving bowl. Arrange the four loose bundles of aligned tips on top and pour over any butter glaze remaining in the skillet. For the source’s small-pastry service, divide the diced asparagus among eight warmed patty crusts or tartlet shells and place a few tips on each. Serve immediately, while the green is vivid and the butter still clings. À table!

Chef Tips

• •This dish needs lively fresh asparagus. Choose firm stalks with tightly closed heads and damp cut ends; frozen tips soften too far, while preserved white asparagus belongs to another preparation. If the market bunches are tired, cook haricots verts au beurre tonight and save Pointes d’Asperges for better spears.
• •A large pot is part of the technique. The water must recover its boil almost at once after the asparagus enters, or the vegetable cooks slowly and loses both colour and clean flavour.
• •Butter, not margarine. Its milk solids and water help make the soft off-heat glaze this preparation requires. We don’t apologize for butter.
• •The tartlet service is faithful to the source but optional at a home dinner. In a warmed bowl, the asparagus becomes a generous side dish for roast chicken, veal, or a plain omelette.
• •Serve with a dry Loire Sauvignon Blanc if wine is wanted. Its freshness suits asparagus better than an oaky, heavily perfumed white.
• •Pointes d’Asperges is best eaten immediately. Chill leftovers within 2 hours and fold them cold into an omelette the following day; direct reheating dulls the green and separates the butter.

Advance Preparation

• •The asparagus may be trimmed, bundled, and diced up to 4 hours ahead. Keep the pieces covered with a barely damp towel in the refrigerator, separating the bundles from the dice so the tips are not crushed.
• •Bake or purchase the optional patty crusts or tartlet shells up to 1 day ahead and keep them airtight. Warm them briefly before filling.
• •Do not boil the asparagus ahead if its vivid colour and butter glaze matter. The final cooking takes only minutes and should meet the table directly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 135g)