Asparagus (Asperges)

Asperges (asparagus) teach one of the cleanest lessons in the vegetable canon. Sort the spears by thickness before they touch water. A thin Parisian spear and a stout Argenteuil stalk do not share a clock; cook them together and one surrenders before the other is tender.

The original entry assumed spring-market varieties identified on sight, a great kettle already boiling, hands to tie brigade quantities into bundles, and a silver asparagus drainer waiting at service. For four people, 2 pounds of asparagus, an 8-quart home pot, cotton twine, and a clean linen-lined platter do the same work. I have reduced the quantity and replaced the silver, not changed the intent. The special drainer was service scaffolding; careful cleaning, even bundles, abundant salted water, and prompt draining are the dish.

Cooked properly, the stalk yields cleanly under a knife while the tip remains whole, tender, and unmistakably itself. If a tested spear tastes bitter, move its bundle briefly to fresh water. Ça se rattrape. Before you begin, do the step that decides everything: grade the spears into equal thicknesses.