Crépinettes de Perdreaux

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Sharp boning knife
• •Food processor with metal blade or heavy chef's knife
• •Digital kitchen scale
• •Large bowl set over ice
• •Large flat cast-iron griddle or two 12-inch skillets
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Soften the caul

   Place the caul in a large bowl of very cold water with the vinegar and leave it for 30 minutes. Rinse gently, spread it out, and pat it thoroughly dry; it should feel supple and almost translucent, never leathery. Cut twelve squares about 6 inches across, saving the scraps for patches, and keep them cold beneath a damp cloth.

   Caul tears easily once stretched. Open it under cold water if the folds cling together, then lift it with both hands rather than pulling from one corner.
2. 2

   Mince everything cold

   Chill the food processor blade and bowl for 10 minutes. Pulse the partridge to a fine, even mince with a little grain remaining, then transfer it to a bowl set over ice. Pulse the fresh bacon separately until finely minced but not smeared, and add it to the partridge. Cold fat cuts cleanly and binds; warm fat coats the meat and leaves a greasy, loose forcemeat.

3. 3

   Bind the forcemeat

   The parent method is Crépinette de Ris de Veau (No. 1222): for this entry, its equal-weight structure becomes 225 grams each of partridge and fresh bacon. Add the salt, white pepper, and beaten eggs, then mix firmly with a stiff spatula until the forcemeat becomes tacky and holds together. Fold in all the chopped truffles. Crépinettes Truffées (No. 1410) remains a separate related preparation; its sausage meat and truffle liquor do not enter here. Fry a teaspoonful until its center reaches 165°F (74°C), taste, and correct the seasoning if needed. If the mixture feels too soft to shape, don't add breadcrumbs to the interior. Chill it for 30 minutes. Ça se rattrape.

4. 4

   Shape and wrap

   Weigh the forcemeat into twelve portions of 1¾ to 2 ounces (50 to 55 grams), keeping within the book's prescribed size. With damp hands, form each into a compact oval about 3 inches long and ¾ inch thick. Set one on a caul square, fold the sides over it, and trim away heavy overlaps before placing it seam-side down. One thin complete layer is enough. If the caul tears, cover the gap with a reserved scrap. Chill the wrapped crépinettes for 20 minutes so they hold their shape.

5. 5

   Butter and crumb

   Brush each crépinette completely with melted butter, then roll it lightly in the fine breadcrumbs, pressing only enough to make an even coat. Shake off every loose crumb. This sequence stays exactly as the entry gives it: butter first, breadcrumbs second. If the coating slides, the caul is still wet or warm; pat the wrapped crépinettes dry and chill them again before recoating.

6. 6

   Grill them gently

   Warm a large flat cast-iron griddle over medium-low heat for 5 minutes. It is ready when a dropped breadcrumb sizzles quietly and turns gold in about 30 seconds. Arrange the crépinettes seam-side down without crowding and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, turn, and cook the second side for another 5 minutes. Turn them onto their edges for 1 to 2 minutes at a time, until the caul has rendered, the crumbs are evenly bronzed, and the centers register 165°F (74°C). Never press them. If the crust darkens before the centers are ready, lower the heat and slide the griddle partly off the burner; if necessary, finish them on a rack in a 325°F (165°C) oven. Gentle heat is the dish.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Rest the crépinettes on a rack for 5 minutes so the juices settle without softening the underside. If the chestnut purée has tightened, loosen it over low heat with a spoonful of water until it falls softly from the spoon. Set three crépinettes on each warmed plate beside a generous portion of purée. Lentil purée is the book's other customary accompaniment. No extra sauce or fussy garnish is needed. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask a game butcher for two young partridges and have the breasts and legs removed from the frames if boning birds isn't your evening's pleasure. Frozen partridge is an honest choice when fresh birds aren't available; thaw it slowly in the refrigerator and dry the meat well.
• •Fresh bacon here means raw, unsmoked pork belly with at least half its cross-section in white fat. Smoked or cured bacon changes the seasoning and overwhelms the partridge and truffle.
• •Caul is not decorative wrapping. It bastes the lean game, holds the forcemeat together, and becomes the crisp casing. Ask a butcher to order it, and freeze any extra well wrapped. Strips of bacon won't do the same work.
• •Use fresh black truffles when the season offers them, or whole preserved black truffles, drained and weighed after draining. Truffle oil cannot replace the chopped flesh or its texture.
• •A supple red Burgundy suits the game and truffle without bullying them. Serve the chestnut purée lightly seasoned and soft enough to catch the buttery crumbs.

Advance Preparation

• •The forcemeat may be mixed, wrapped in caul, and refrigerated for up to 24 hours before cooking. Keep it covered and at or below 40°F (4°C), then apply the butter and breadcrumbs shortly before grilling.
• •The crépinettes may be buttered and crumbed up to 2 hours ahead. Keep them uncovered on a rack in the refrigerator so the coating stays dry.
• •The light chestnut purée may be prepared up to 2 days ahead and reheated slowly. If it sets firmly in the cold, loosen it with small spoonfuls of water rather than adding more fat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 360g)