Suprêmes, Côtelettes et Filets de Faisan

Suprêmes, Côtelettes et Filets de Faisan (pheasant breasts, cutlets, and fillets) teaches one true thing: lean pheasant breast must remain protected by the whole bird until the moment it is served. Lift it raw and poach it as one might a fowl suprême, and the meat can dry during the few seconds service takes to gather itself. Poêle the bird just underdone, let the rest finish the cooking, then raise the suprêmes when the sauce and plates are waiting.

The original service assumed a saucier attending the cooking liquor, brown stock never off the fire, and a carver ready at the pass. A salamander stood nearby for other preparations, but this natural service has no need of it. The home equivalents are honest ones: a heavy lidded casserole for the poêling, an instant-read thermometer for the old cook's practiced touch, and one small saucepan for the jus. Two modest pheasants give four generous portions. One cook, one stove, one evening.

Separate holding pans and another pair of hands were brigade scaffolding, so they go. The butter-rich poêling and the last-minute raising of the breasts are the dish, so they stay. Have every plate warm and every guest seated before the knife touches the first suprême.