
Chef Juliette
Selle de Chevreuil et Cuissot
Selle de Chevreuil et Cuissot teaches the discipline of game: strip every tendon, skip marinade for a young, well-hung joint, roast in butter, and stop before leanness turns to dryness.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1837, Faisan Demidoff, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Butter-roasted pheasant, crescent-cut roots, onion roundels, celery, and black truffle meet in one cocotte, where disciplined timing keeps the bird succulent and turns a precise grand-kitchen garnish into generous home-table food.
Faisan Demidoff (pheasant with butter-stewed crescent vegetables and truffle) teaches disciplined convergence. The lean bird, the garnish, and the short jus must arrive together, because pheasant will not forgive waiting. Poêler (covered butter-roasting) cooks the bird most of the way alone; the prepared vegetables join for the finish, followed by truffle and stock at the last moment. That sequence is the dish.
Unlike many grand formulas, this one needs neither saucier nor salamander. It does assume a poêle pan, a second cocotte (heavy covered casserole) for service, chicken stock never off the fire, and spare hands to flute vegetables. At home, one cocotte handles cooking and service, a skillet prepares the garnish, and good concentrated stock supplies the foundation. The book's specified garnish is reduced to five-eighths for one pheasant serving four, preserving its exact carrot, turnip, onion, celery, and truffle ratio of 8:5:5:5:3. The second serving vessel and formal fluting knife are brigade scaffolding; the crescent cutting, butter stewing, staged finish, and careful degreasing must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
The moment that matters is the three-quarter mark. Add the garnish when the breast is around 135°F (57°C), then watch the thermometer rather than the clock. If the vegetables lag behind the bird, lift the pheasant out and finish them alone. Ça se rattrape. A carrot may wait for a pheasant; a pheasant must never wait for a carrot.
Faisan Demidoff belongs to the cosmopolitan Parisian grand-kitchen canon, not to a regional pheasant tradition of Lyon, Burgundy, or Provence. Demidoff is the French spelling attached to the Russian Demidov family, whose name traveled through French dining, while the preparation remained thoroughly French in method: butter-cooked poultry, a geometrically cut vegetable garnish, truffle, and a short chicken jus. The surprising point is that Demidoff names no heavy sauce here; it names this precise union of bird, crescents, truffle, and degreased roasting liquor, served in the cocotte.
Quantity
1 bird, 2¾ to 3¼ lb (1.25 to 1.47 kg), for the Poularde Demidoff (No. 1464) preparation
Quantity
6 tablespoons (90 ml / 85 g)
divided
Quantity
about 1¼ cups (300 ml / 144 g)
peeled, weighed after trimming, and cut into grooved 1-inch crescents
Quantity
about ¾ cup (180 ml / 90 g)
peeled, weighed after trimming, and cut into grooved 1-inch crescents
Quantity
3 onions, about ⅔ cup (160 ml / 90 g)
cut into thin roundels
Quantity
3 to 4 stalks, scant 1 cup (220 ml / 90 g)
peeled of coarse strings and thinly sliced
Quantity
about ⅓ cup loosely packed (80 ml / 54 g)
drained if preserved and cut into crescents
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g)
Quantity
1½ teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g)
divided
Quantity
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| oven-ready farmed pheasant | 1 bird, 2¾ to 3¼ lb (1.25 to 1.47 kg), for the Poularde Demidoff (No. 1464) preparation |
| unsalted butterdivided | 6 tablespoons (90 ml / 85 g) |
| carrotspeeled, weighed after trimming, and cut into grooved 1-inch crescents | about 1¼ cups (300 ml / 144 g) |
| turnippeeled, weighed after trimming, and cut into grooved 1-inch crescents | about ¾ cup (180 ml / 90 g) |
| small onionscut into thin roundels | 3 onions, about ⅔ cup (160 ml / 90 g) |
| celery stalkspeeled of coarse strings and thinly sliced | 3 to 4 stalks, scant 1 cup (220 ml / 90 g) |
| fresh black truffle or whole preserved black truffledrained if preserved and cut into crescents | about ⅓ cup loosely packed (80 ml / 54 g) |
| well-flavored unsalted chicken stock | ¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g) |
| fine sea saltdivided | 1½ teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g) |
| freshly ground black pepper | ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g) |
Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Pat the pheasant dry inside and out, season it with most of the salt and all the pepper, and truss it loosely so the wings and legs sit close to the body. Form the carrots and turnip into pieces about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. Cut six shallow lengthwise grooves with a channel knife or the point of a paring knife, slice them ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick, then remove an offset smaller round from each slice to make crescents. Cut the onions into equally thin roundels and slice the celery. Weigh the vegetables after trimming, because their 8:5:5:5 proportion belongs to the formula.
Melt 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 43 g) of the butter in a wide skillet over low heat. Add the carrot and turnip crescents with the reserved pinch of salt, cover, and étuver (stew gently in butter without browning) for 5 minutes. Add the onion roundels and celery, cover again, and cook for another 7 to 10 minutes, stirring carefully once or twice, until everything is supple but still holds its exact shape. If the butter threatens to color before the vegetables soften, lower the heat and add 1 teaspoon of water. Ça se rattrape, and the water will evaporate.
Following the Poularde Demidoff (No. 1464) preparation, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) butter in a heavy cocotte over medium heat. Add the pheasant and color it gently on every side for 6 to 8 minutes, turning without tearing the skin. The butter should foam and the bird should become pale bronze, not acquire a hard roast crust. Set the pheasant breast-side up, cover the cocotte, and place it in the oven. Baste after 10 minutes, then again after another 10 minutes, drawing the butter and roasting juices over the breast. Those browned juices form the fond, the concentrated base of the final liquor.
After 20 to 25 minutes in the oven, check the thickest part of the breast without touching bone. When it reaches about 135°F (57°C), the pheasant is roughly three-quarters cooked. Scrape the prepared vegetables and every drop of their butter into the cocotte, arranging them around the bird rather than over its skin. Cover and return the cocotte to the oven for 12 to 18 minutes, basting once, until the breast and innermost thigh each reach 165°F (74°C). If the vegetables still resist when the bird reaches temperature, lift the pheasant to a warm platter, cover it loosely, and cook the garnish alone for another 5 minutes. Never dry the bird merely to satisfy the turnip.
Lift the pheasant to a warm platter and let it rest for 8 to 10 minutes. Put the uncovered cocotte over medium heat, add the truffle crescents and chicken stock, and scrape the fond from the bottom without breaking the vegetables. Hold the liquor at a bare simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, just long enough for the truffle to perfume it and the stock to gather the roasting juices. Tip the cocotte slightly, wait a few seconds for the clear fat to rise, then skim it away with a shallow spoon. Leave the glossy cooking liquor behind. If it remains watery, simmer it for another minute; if it tightens too far, loosen it with a spoonful of stock.
Return the rested pheasant to the cocotte and spoon the crescent garnish, onion roundels, celery, and truffle around it so their shapes remain visible. Pour any resting juices into the short jus, taste for salt, and carry the cocotte directly to the table. Carve the pheasant there, giving each serving both breast or leg meat and a generous spoonful of the butter-glossed garnish. À table!
1 serving (about 280g)
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