
Chef Juliette
Poularde à la Carmélite
Poularde à la Carmélite turns poached chicken, crayfish mousse, truffle, and melting aspic into a cold Parisian centerpiece. The mastery lies in coating while the sauce still flows smoothly.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1714a, Chicken Pie, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
A deep English-style tourte from the French classical canon: chicken layered with veal, bacon, mushrooms, and egg yolks, bathed three-quarters in consommé, then sealed under a burnished puff-pastry lid.
Tourte de volaille à l'anglaise teaches one truth before you touch a pan: the puff paste is not decoration, it is the lid of the cooking vessel. Beneath it, chicken, veal, bacon, onions, buttered mushrooms, and hard-boiled yolks exchange their juices with consommé; above it, the pastry rises crisp and bronze. That only happens when the filling is cold, the rim is dry, and the seal is firm.
The brigade formula assumed a saucier with strong gravy ready, chicken consommé from a stockpot never off the fire, and a pâtissier rolling puff paste. At home, good gelatin-rich prepared consommé, a small measure of prepared chicken jus, and chilled all-butter puff pastry are the honest equivalents. The salamander, an overhead broiler, has no work here; a steady oven does. This version scales the pie to four. Making consommé and puff paste from their first foundations is brigade scaffolding we can set aside, but the veal lining, five ounces of bacon, four halved yolks, three-quarter depth of consommé, and sealed pastry lid are the dish and they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
When the knife breaks the gilded lid, the crust falls in buttery flakes and amber juices gather beneath it, with bacon, tender chicken, and a golden yolk half waiting in each serving. Keep the pastry cold and make the seal tight. That is the step that decides the pie.
Tourte de volaille à l'anglaise belongs to the English pie table, but French classical kitchens kept it in the canon under the à l'anglaise register, refining the household form with chicken consommé, a veal lining, and puff paste. The hard-boiled yolks and five ounces of bacon are not decorative additions; they are structural parts of the recorded Chicken Pie (No. 1660), while the pastry is only a lid rather than a crust around the filling. It traveled from domestic pie to grand-kitchen repertoire and comes home without losing its purpose: a generous meat dish carried to the table in its baking vessel.
Quantity
1 (about 3½ lb / 1.6 kg), for Chicken Pie (No. 1660)
cut into 8 fricassée pieces
Quantity
1½ teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g)
divided
Quantity
¾ teaspoon (4 ml / 2 g)
divided
Quantity
3 medium, about 2½ cups (600 ml / 400 g)
finely chopped
Quantity
about ½ cup (120 ml / 42 g)
finely chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 4 g)
finely chopped
Quantity
8 oz (225 g)
pounded into thin slices
Quantity
5 oz (142 g)
thinly sliced
Quantity
4
hard-boiled; yolks removed and halved, whites reserved
Quantity
2½ to 3 cups (600 to 720 ml / 600 to 720 g)
preferably low-sodium
Quantity
1 package, about 1 lb (16 oz / 455 g)
thawed in the refrigerator
Quantity
1
beaten for gilding
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g)
heated
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small whole chickencut into 8 fricassée pieces | 1 (about 3½ lb / 1.6 kg), for Chicken Pie (No. 1660) |
| fine sea saltdivided | 1½ teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g) |
| freshly ground black pepperdivided | ¾ teaspoon (4 ml / 2 g) |
| yellow onionsfinely chopped | 3 medium, about 2½ cups (600 ml / 400 g) |
| button mushroomsfinely chopped | about ½ cup (120 ml / 42 g) |
| unsalted butter | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 4 g) |
| veal scallopinipounded into thin slices | 8 oz (225 g) |
| unsmoked streaky baconthinly sliced | 5 oz (142 g) |
| large eggshard-boiled; yolks removed and halved, whites reserved | 4 |
| cold chicken consommépreferably low-sodium | 2½ to 3 cups (600 to 720 ml / 600 to 720 g) |
| all-butter puff pastrythawed in the refrigerator | 1 package, about 1 lb (16 oz / 455 g) |
| large eggbeaten for gilding | 1 |
| cold water | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| strong chicken gravy or prepared chicken jusheated | ¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g) |
For Chicken Pie (No. 1660), cut the bird into 8 fricassée pieces, the standard jointed pieces used for a covered cook: 2 drumsticks, 2 thighs, 2 wings, and 2 breast halves. Pat them dry, season with 1 teaspoon of the salt and ½ teaspoon of the pepper, and keep them cold while you prepare the rest. Cold meat protects the pastry from softening before the oven can set it.
Melt the butter in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chopped mushrooms and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring, until their water has evaporated and their edges take a little colour. Scrape them onto a plate and cool completely. Leave the onions raw; finely chopped, they soften in the consommé and give the filling the character recorded in the formula.
Set a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat it to 375°F (190°C). Line the bottom and sides of a deep 2½-quart (2.4 L) pie dish with the thin veal slices, overlapping them so there are no broad gaps. Season the veal lightly with the remaining salt and pepper. Do not brown it first; here the veal is a tender inner lining that enriches the liquor and protects the chicken against the hot dish.
Arrange the drumsticks and thighs in the bottom of the veal-lined dish, where the heat is strongest, then place the wings and breast pieces above them. Distribute the chopped onions, cooled mushrooms, and parsley between and over the chicken. Tuck in the bacon slices and halved hard-boiled yolks so each eventual serving receives some. Keep the filling below the rim; the pastry needs clear space to seal.
Pour the cold chicken consommé slowly down the inside edge of the dish until it reaches three-quarters of the way up the filling. Stop by depth rather than by volume, since pie dishes differ. Do not submerge the top layer or let liquid wash over the rim; if it rises too high, ladle some out. The consommé is the sauce's real foundation, and the uncovered upper quarter keeps it away from the pastry.
Wipe every trace of fat and consommé from the rim. Mix the beaten egg with the cold water. Roll the chilled puff pastry to about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick and cut enough ¾-inch (2 cm) strips to cover the rim. Dampen the clean rim lightly with water, press on the strips, brush those strips with egg wash, and drape the remaining pastry over the dish. Press firmly to seal, trim, and crimp. Brush the top lightly with egg wash without flooding the cut edges, score curved streaks with the back of a knife, and cut a 1-inch (2.5 cm) vent in the centre. If the pastry becomes limp or tears, stop. Ça se rattrape: patch a tear underneath with a cold scrap and egg wash, then chill the covered pie for 15 minutes before baking.
Set the dish on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 25 minutes at 375°F (190°C), then reduce the oven to 350°F (175°C) and continue for 60 to 70 minutes. The lid should stand puffed and deeply butter-gold, with bubbling amber liquor visible at the vent. If the pastry colours too quickly, cover it loosely with foil once it has set. Check a thigh and the thickest breast piece through the vent or an inconspicuous edge; both must reach 165°F (74°C). If they have not, keep the pie covered loosely and bake until they do.
Bring the strong chicken gravy or jus just to a simmer. As soon as the pie leaves the oven, reopen the central vent gently with a skewer if needed, then pour the gravy through it a spoonful at a time. Rest the pie for 10 minutes so the enriched juices settle without softening the lid. Carry the whole dish to the table and serve each portion with a generous piece of pastry. À table!
1 serving (about 600g)
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