
Chef Juliette
Poularde à la Carmélite
Poularde à la Carmélite turns poached chicken, crayfish mousse, truffle, and melting aspic into a cold Parisian centerpiece. The mastery lies in coating while the sauce still flows smoothly.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1707, Médaillons de Volaille Rachel, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Médaillons de Volaille Rachel turns exact cold work into a generous centerpiece: foie-gras-layered suprêmes, clear aspic, silken leg mousse, and creamed asparagus arranged for four on one chilled platter.
Médaillons de Volaille Rachel (foie-gras-layered chicken rounds on leg mousse with creamed asparagus) teaches the discipline of the cold kitchen. Temperature is structure here. Each suprême (breast fillet) must be thoroughly chilled before cutting, the mousse de volaille (chicken leg mousse) must remain cold while it emulsifies, and the aspic must be fluid enough to glaze without warming what lies beneath.
The original assumed a garde-manger cutting by the tray, a saucier on staff, chicken stock never off the fire, and a sculpted block of ice waiting for service. Its brigade owned a salamander too, but Rachel never needs that fierce top heat; this is cold work from first cut to final glaze. A food processor, reliable powdered gelatin, a shallow water bath, and a chilled square platter over crushed ice are the honest home equivalents. The display is reduced to eight medallions for four, and the dome moulding belonging to the linked chaud-froid is omitted because Rachel borrows only its stuffed, poached suprême. Nothing essential disappears: foie gras and truffle in the center, a leg-mousse base, clear aspic, and asparagus in cream. Those are the dish.
Finished properly, the platter is cool, glossy, ivory and green, with a dark seam of truffle showing inside every neat round. Clear enough refrigerator space before beginning. The mousse emulsion is the step that matters most: chicken, bowl, blade, and cream must all stay cold, or the base meant to carry the medallions turns grainy.
Médaillons de Volaille Rachel belongs to Parisian service froid, the formal cold table where poultry, foie gras, truffle, aspic, and prized vegetables were composed with the discipline of a hot sauce. Rachel was the celebrated tragedienne whose name the Paris table attached to several grand preparations, so the title is a dedication, not a regional style. The format passed from grand buffet service to home dinner tables as a chilled platter rather than an ice-block display, while its clear glazing and exact assembly remained the point.
Quantity
1 large suprême (about 12 oz / 340 g), from Chaud-froid Felix Faure (No. 1691)
prepared through poaching and chilling under light pressure, before its final coating and moulding
Quantity
10 oz / 280 g
trimmed, cubed, and thoroughly chilled
Quantity
1
Quantity
1/2 cup (120 ml / 120 g)
Quantity
1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g)
softened
Quantity
2 cups (480 ml / 480 g)
Quantity
3 1/2 teaspoons (17 ml / 10 g)
Quantity
24 spears (about 1 1/2 lb / 680 g)
3-inch / 7.5 cm heads cut; stalks reserved
Quantity
1/2 cup (120 ml / 120 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 36 g)
divided, with most reserved for the blanching water
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 0.5 g)
divided
Quantity
6 cups (1.4 liters / about 2 lb / 900 g)
for service
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| chilled stuffed chicken suprêmeprepared through poaching and chilling under light pressure, before its final coating and moulding | 1 large suprême (about 12 oz / 340 g), from Chaud-froid Felix Faure (No. 1691) |
| boneless, skinless chicken thigh meattrimmed, cubed, and thoroughly chilled | 10 oz / 280 g |
| large egg white | 1 |
| cold heavy cream for the chicken mousse | 1/2 cup (120 ml / 120 g) |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) |
| clear, low-sodium chicken stock | 2 cups (480 ml / 480 g) |
| unflavored powdered gelatin | 3 1/2 teaspoons (17 ml / 10 g) |
| medium asparagus spears3-inch / 7.5 cm heads cut; stalks reserved | 24 spears (about 1 1/2 lb / 680 g) |
| cold heavy cream for the asparagus salad | 1/2 cup (120 ml / 120 g) |
| fine sea saltdivided, with most reserved for the blanching water | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 36 g) |
| ground white pepperdivided | 1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 0.5 g) |
| crushed icefor service | 6 cups (1.4 liters / about 2 lb / 900 g) |
Bring the stuffed suprême prepared within Chaud-froid Felix Faure (No. 1691) to this recipe after it has been poached, cooled in its liquor under light pressure, and unwrapped. Do not apply that entry's chicken-mousse envelope, white chaud-froid sauce, or dome aspic. Rachel borrows its foie-gras-and-truffle-layered suprême, then takes a different road. Keep it covered and refrigerated while you prepare the base.
Chill the food-processor bowl and blade for 15 minutes. Put the very cold thigh meat in the processor with 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 6 g) of the salt and half the white pepper. Process until smooth and tacky, scrape down the bowl, then add the egg white and process again. Hold back 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) of the mousse cream and pour the remainder through the feed tube in a thin stream while the machine runs. Stop as soon as the mixture is smooth and glossy. If it becomes grainy or leaves grease on the bowl, stop immediately. Ça se rattrape. Nest the bowl in ice until thoroughly cold, then pulse in the reserved cream a teaspoon at a time until the emulsion closes again.
Heat the oven to 300°F / 150°C. Butter an 8 by 10-inch / 20 by 25 cm rectangle inside a shallow metal baking pan and spread the mousse within it in an even layer about 1/3 inch / 8 mm thick. Cover its surface with buttered parchment and place the pan in a larger roasting pan. Add hot water to come halfway up the sides, then bake for 14 to 18 minutes, until the mousse feels softly springy, shows no browning, and reaches 165°F / 74°C at the center. Lift it from the water bath, cool promptly, cover, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, until quite firm.
Pour 1/2 cup (120 ml / 120 g) of the cold stock into a bowl and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over it. Leave it to bloom for 5 minutes. Reduce the remaining 1 1/2 cups (360 ml / 360 g) stock in a small saucepan to 1 cup (240 ml / 240 g), then take it off the heat and whisk in the bloomed gelatin until completely dissolved. Taste and season lightly with salt, remembering that cold quiets seasoning. Strain into a shallow bowl and cool over ice, stirring, until the aspic is fluid but slightly syrupy. If it sets solid, warm it gently until fluid; if it runs straight off a cold spoon, return it to the ice for several minutes. Do not boil it after adding the gelatin.
Bring a wide saucepan of water to a boil and season it with most of the remaining salt. Prepare a separate bowl of ice water. From one reserved stalk, shave a long thin ribbon with a vegetable peeler. Blanch the ribbon for 20 seconds and the asparagus heads for 2 to 3 minutes, until vivid green and tender without becoming limp. Chill them immediately, drain, and dry them very thoroughly. Reserve 10 of the straightest heads and the ribbon for the central fagot d'asperges (a close bundle of asparagus heads). Keep everything cold.
Set the cold suprême on a chilled board. With a long, very sharp knife, cut it crosswise into 8 even collops about 3/8 inch / 1 cm thick, warming and wiping the blade between cuts if the foie gras drags. Trim each collop with the 2-inch / 5 cm round cutter. Set the rounds on a rack over a cold tray and spoon a thin coat of syrupy aspic across the top and sides. Chill for 5 minutes, then apply a second thin coat. If the surface turns ridged, the aspic is too cold; warm it only until fluid and coat once more. If it slides away, chill it briefly before trying again.
Dip the 2 1/2-inch / 6.5 cm cutter in hot water, wipe it dry, and stamp 8 roundels from the firm chicken mousse. The hot, dry cutter makes clean edges without tearing. Arrange the roundels evenly around a chilled square platter, leaving the center open. Brush each with a small dab of half-set aspic and place one glazed medallion on top. If a medallion slides, lift it off, chill the aspic for 2 or 3 minutes, and mount it again.
Whip the asparagus cream in a cold bowl only until it holds soft folds. Season with 1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) salt and the remaining white pepper, then fold in the remaining asparagus heads. If the cream loosens, lift out the asparagus, blot it dry again, and rewhip the cream gently before folding the heads back through. Spoon this salad into the gaps between the medallions. Gather the 10 reserved heads into a neat fagot, tie it with the blanched asparagus ribbon, and set it in the center. Place the platter over a shallow tray of crushed ice and serve within 20 minutes. The sculpted ice block was brigade scaffolding; the cold medallions, mousse, aspic, and creamed asparagus are the dish. À table!
1 serving (about 385g)
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