
Chef Juliette
John Dory (St. Pierre)
John Dory has the delicacy of sole and the firmness of turbot. A light flouring, a quick butter sauté, and nut-brown beurre noisette show exactly why looks never mattered.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1616, Suprêmes de Volaille Richelieu, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
A crisp chicken suprême, cooked in clarified butter and finished with melting maître d’hôtel butter and four truffle slices: a spare Parisian lesson in exact breading, steady heat, and knowing when enough is enough.
Suprêmes de Volaille Richelieu (chicken breast fillets in a crisp egg-and-crumb coat, finished with parsley-lemon butter and black truffle) teaches one true thing: the crust must set the instant it meets clarified butter. If the fat is merely warm, the crumbs drink it; when the fat is properly hot, the coating seals around the juicy suprême and turns evenly gold.
The brigade entry assumed its breading preparation and clarified butter already stood at the range, with another pair of hands to slice the truffle. It asks for neither a saucier nor a stock kept constantly on the fire, and it needs no salamander; adding a reduction or broiled finish would bury its precision. At home, three shallow dishes, a wide skillet, and a low oven for holding the first batch do the work honestly. The perpetual mise en place and brigade volume are scaffolding, so they go. The complete à l’anglaise coat, clarified butter, half-melted beurre maître d’hôtel, and four slices of truffle on every breast are the dish, so they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
For four servings, keep the breasts evenly thick and fry only two at once. Crowding drops the heat and spoils the crust. Test the clarified butter with one loose crumb before the first suprême goes in; that tiny sizzle decides the whole plate.
Suprêmes de Volaille Richelieu belongs to the Parisian grand-kitchen repertoire, where concise names signaled precise garnishes and Richelieu marked a polished, truffle-bearing presentation rather than a regional poultry tradition. Its à l’anglaise coating shows how French classical kitchens absorbed an English egg-and-crumb method and made it part of their own technical vocabulary. In this formula the grand name hides an unusually spare plate: clarified butter, maître d’hôtel butter, and exactly four truffle slices, with no stock sauce beneath them.
Quantity
4 (about 24 oz / 680 g total)
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 60 g)
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 120 g) Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174)
prepared according to its own entry
Quantity
1½ cups (360 ml / 90 g)
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 110 g)
divided
Quantity
6 tablespoons (90 ml / 85 g)
very soft
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 4 g)
finely chopped
Quantity
2 teaspoons (10 ml / 10 g)
Quantity
¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g)
Quantity
⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.3 g)
Quantity
1 small (about ¾ oz / 20 g)
cut into 16 fine slices
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless, skinless chicken breast fillets | 4 (about 24 oz / 680 g total) |
| plain flour | ½ cup (120 ml / 60 g) |
| Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing)prepared according to its own entry | ½ cup (120 ml / 120 g) Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174) |
| fine dry white breadcrumbs | 1½ cups (360 ml / 90 g) |
| clarified butterdivided | ½ cup (120 ml / 110 g) |
| unsalted buttervery soft | 6 tablespoons (90 ml / 85 g) |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 4 g) |
| fresh lemon juice | 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 10 g) |
| fine sea salt | ¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) |
| ground white pepper | ⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.3 g) |
| whole black truffle, fresh or preservedcut into 16 fine slices | 1 small (about ¾ oz / 20 g) |
Heat the oven to 200°F / 95°C and set a wire rack over a sheet pan inside it. Lay each suprême between two sheets of parchment and tap only the thickest part until the breast is an even ⅝ inch / 1.5 cm thick. Keep its natural shape rather than pounding it into a thin cutlet. Pat every surface dry, because moisture loosens the coating before the butter can set it.
Work the soft butter with the parsley, lemon juice, salt, and white pepper until evenly combined. It should be creamy and easily spreadable, not liquid. Keep it in a small heatproof bowl near the stove; the half-melting comes only after the chicken is cooked.
Set the flour, the Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), and the fine breadcrumbs in three separate shallow dishes. Coat each suprême lightly in flour and shake away the excess, immerse it completely in the Anglaise, let the surplus drain, then press it into the crumbs until no damp patches remain. Lay the coated breasts on a clean rack for 10 minutes so the crust settles. If a bare patch appears, dab it with a little more Anglaise and press on fresh crumbs. Ça se rattrape.
Pour half the clarified butter into a heavy 12-inch / 30 cm skillet and heat it over medium-high heat to about 350°F / 175°C. Drop in one loose breadcrumb: it must produce an immediate, lively ring of bubbles and turn gold gradually. A silent crumb means the fat is too cool; a crumb that blackens at once means it is too hot. Correct the heat before the chicken enters.
Lower two suprêmes into the clarified butter without crowding and fry for 3 to 4 minutes on the first side, until the crust is evenly butter-gold with deeper bronze at the edges. Turn once and cook the second side for another 3 minutes. If the bubbling dies and the crumbs remain pale, lift the chicken to the rack, restore the heat, and return it to the pan; pushing on in cool fat only makes a greasy crust. If it browns before the centre is ready, lower the heat and finish it on the rack in the low oven. Transfer the first batch to the oven, add the remaining clarified butter as needed, and cook the other two. Verify that every suprême reaches 165°F / 74°C at its thickest point before serving.
Set the four suprêmes on a warm platter. Place the maître d’hôtel butter over the lowest possible heat just until roughly half becomes clear while the rest remains soft and creamy, then whisk once and immediately coat each suprême. Do not boil it or turn it into plain melted butter. If it melts completely, set the bowl over cool water for a minute and whisk until it thickens slightly again. Lay exactly four fine truffle slices on each buttered suprême so their aroma opens against the warm butter. Serve at once. À table!
1 serving (about 220g)
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