
Chef Juliette
Pullets and Capons for Relevés
Three roads through the Paris poultry canon, poach, poêler, or braise, with one rule beneath them all: protect the breast with bacon while the legs cook, then turn the liquor into sauce.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1486, Poularde Lady Curzon, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Poularde Lady Curzon turns one careful poach into two rewards: tender rice-stuffed poultry and concentrated liquor for a glossy sauce Indienne, with cèpes gently bound in cream.
Poularde Lady Curzon (rice-stuffed poached pullet with sauce Indienne, a curry-scented poultry velouté) teaches one true thing before you touch the stove: the poaching pot is part of the sauce. Fit the bird snugly and its liquor comes out concentrated, savory, and ready to carry the curry and cream. Give it a cavernous stockpot and all that character wanders off into water.
The original recipe assumed prepared Pilaff Rice (for the Stuffing of Fowls) (No. 2256), a stockpot never off the fire, and a saucier ready to turn poultry velouté into sauce Indienne. For four people, one plump bird and one close-fitting cocotte do the work. The separate stock station and sauce station were brigade scaffolding, so they can go. The enriched rice, the barely trembling poach, and the sauce built from the bird's liquor are the dish, so they stay. There is no salamander finish to imitate because this poularde is coated, not browned. One cook, one stove, one evening.
The finished bird arrives under an ivory-gold gloss, with fragrant rice inside and bronze cèpes held in cream beside it. The step that decides everything is the poach. Keep the liquid below a boil and the flesh remains tender while the rice finishes cooking; let it roll and both bird and sauce lose their delicacy.
Poularde Lady Curzon belongs to the cosmopolitan Parisian grand-kitchen repertory, not to any French regional farmhouse table. Its namesake was the American-born wife of the British viceroy in India, and sauce Indienne records a French kitchen's interpretation of curry as it traveled through Anglo-Indian and diplomatic dining. The choice of cèpes or cucumber in cream is telling: service could shift the garnish with the market while the stuffed, poached bird and its curry-scented sauce remained fixed.
Quantity
1 (4½ to 5 lb / 2 to 2.25 kg)
giblets removed
Quantity
1½ cups (355 ml / 330 g) Pilaff Rice (for the Stuffing of Fowls) (No. 2256)
cooled
Quantity
2 teaspoons (10 ml / 12 g)
divided
Quantity
1 teaspoon (5 ml / 2 g)
divided
Quantity
3 quarts (2.8 L / 2.8 kg), plus more if needed
Quantity
8 tablespoons (120 ml / 113 g)
divided
Quantity
1 small (4 oz / 115 g)
finely chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 7 g)
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 30 g)
Quantity
1¼ cups (300 ml / 305 g)
divided
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
Quantity
4 cups (950 ml / 340 g)
thickly sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| poularde or plump roasting chickengiblets removed | 1 (4½ to 5 lb / 2 to 2.25 kg) |
| prepared Pilaff Rice (for the Stuffing of Fowls)cooled | 1½ cups (355 ml / 330 g) Pilaff Rice (for the Stuffing of Fowls) (No. 2256) |
| fine sea saltdivided | 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 12 g) |
| finely ground white pepperdivided | 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 2 g) |
| unsalted or low-sodium chicken stock | 3 quarts (2.8 L / 2.8 kg), plus more if needed |
| unsalted butterdivided | 8 tablespoons (120 ml / 113 g) |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 1 small (4 oz / 115 g) |
| mild curry powder | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 7 g) |
| all-purpose flour | ¼ cup (60 ml / 30 g) |
| heavy creamdivided | 1¼ cups (300 ml / 305 g) |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| fresh or frozen cèpes (Boletus edulis)thickly sliced | 4 cups (950 ml / 340 g) |
Pat the poularde dry inside and out, without rinsing it. Season the cavity lightly with salt and white pepper, then spoon in the cooled Pilaff Rice (for the Stuffing of Fowls) (No. 2256). Fill the cavity loosely, leaving room for the rice to finish swelling; tamping it down gives you a dense stuffing and slows the heat from reaching its center. Close the opening with small skewers or kitchen string, truss the legs, and season the outside.
Choose a pot that leaves no more than about 1 inch (2.5 cm) around the bird. Warm the stock to just below a simmer, lower in the poularde breast-side up, and add enough hot stock to cover it. Bring the liquid back to a bare tremble, cover partly, and poach for 75 to 90 minutes. The tighter the pot, the more the liquor tastes of the bird. Do not let it boil: a rolling liquid tightens the flesh, tears the skin, and clouds the stock. If it does boil, lift the pot off the heat and add a small ladle of cold stock. Ça se rattrape. Return it over gentler heat. The poularde is ready when both the center of the stuffing and the thickest part of the thigh register at least 165°F (74°C).
Lift the poularde carefully onto a rack set over a tray, keeping it breast-side up. Tent it loosely and let it rest for 20 minutes. Strain the poaching liquor through a fine sieve, skim away excess surface fat, and measure 3 cups (710 ml) into a saucepan. Boil this down to 2½ cups (590 ml). This reduction replaces the brigade's separate poultry velouté: the foundation comes from the same bird, only concentrated enough to hold a sauce.
Melt 4 tablespoons (60 ml / 57 g) of the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook without coloring until completely soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the curry powder for 30 seconds, just until fragrant, then add the flour and cook this roux for 2 minutes. Whisk in the hot reduced poaching liquor a little at a time, scraping into the corners, and simmer gently for 12 to 15 minutes. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve, return it to the pan, and add ¾ cup (180 ml / 183 g) of the cream, reserving a spoonful for rescue. Simmer until it reaches nappe, coating the back of a spoon in a smooth veil. Off the heat, whisk in 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) cold butter and the lemon juice. If the sauce is lumpy, strain it again; if it is too thick, loosen it with hot poaching liquor. If the butter separates into greasy beads, take the pan off the heat and whisk in the reserved cold cream. Ça se rattrape.
If using frozen cèpes, thaw and press them dry. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) butter in a broad skillet, add the mushrooms in one layer, and sauté over medium-high heat until their moisture has cooked away and their edges are deeply bronzed. Do this in batches if necessary; crowded cèpes stew and turn grey. Return them all to the pan, add the remaining ½ cup (120 ml / 122 g) cream, and simmer until it clings lightly to the mushrooms. Season with salt and white pepper.
Remove the trussing string and blot the poularde lightly so the sauce will cling. Set it on a warm oval platter and spoon over enough sauce Indienne to coat the bird in a smooth, glossy layer. Arrange the cèpes in cream around it and send the remaining sauce to the table in a warm sauceboat. Carve the poularde at the table, giving each person tender meat, a spoonful of the enriched rice, cèpes, and plenty of sauce. À table!
1 serving (about 675g)
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