Poularde à l’Estragon

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •5 to 6 quart (4.7 to 5.7 L) deep, snug stockpot with lid
• •12-inch (30 cm) wide saucepan or sauté pan for reducing
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Kitchen twine
• •Oval serving platter and sauceboat

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the poularde

   Remove any giblets and stray feathers, then pat the poularde dry. Do not soak or pre-blanch it; good poultry goes directly into cold stock so its full savor remains in the meat and cooking liquor. Season the cavity and skin with the measured salt, tuck the wing tips underneath, and tie the legs together without cinching the breast tightly.

   Choose the smallest deep pot that holds the bird comfortably. A broad pot demands unnecessary liquid, and every extra cup must later be reduced.
2. 2

   Set the cold poach

   Scatter the onion, carrot, leek, parsley stems, bay leaf, and peppercorns through a snug stockpot. Set the poularde breast-side up over this ordinary poaching garnish, add the unsalted stock, and pour in only enough cold water to cover the bird by about 1 inch. Submerge the tied bunch of five or six tarragon sprigs. If the bird floats, hold it beneath the surface with a small heatproof plate.

3. 3

   Poach at a tremble

   Bring the liquor up gradually over medium-low heat, skimming away the pale foam as it gathers. Once the liquid reaches 176 to 185°F (80 to 85°C), lower the heat and keep it there for 45 to 55 minutes; the surface should quiver with only an occasional lazy bubble. If it breaks into a boil, lift the pot from the burner at once. Ça se rattrape: wait until the bubbling stops, return it over the lowest heat, and continue gently. Turn the bird once if part of the breast remains exposed. It is ready when the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165°F (74°C) and the breast reaches 155 to 160°F (68 to 71°C).

   A thermometer is the useful modern equivalent for the brigade cook who judged dozens of birds by touch. Measure close to the bone without touching it.
4. 4

   Dish and decorate

   Lift the poularde carefully, tip it over the pot so the cavity drains, and settle it breast-side up on a warmed oval platter. Remove the string and cover the bird loosely while it rests. Decorate the breast with the Blanchings (No. 273), arranging the leaves as one simple spray rather than scattering them. The garnish names the flavor already carried through the meat and liquor.

5. 5

   Reduce and strain

   Skim excess fat from the cooking liquor, leaving a few golden eyes for flavor and sheen. Transfer the liquor with its tarragon and ordinary garnish to the widest saucepan you own, then boil it briskly until reduced to about 1½ cups (350 ml), usually 25 to 35 minutes. Only then strain it through a fine sieve. Taste after reduction, never before: if it is too strong or salty, loosen it with unsalted stock or water; if it tastes thin, return it to the pan for several minutes. Ça se rattrape. The finished sauce should be clear, amber, and concentrated, not thick or syrupy.

6. 6

   Serve the liquor separately

   Warm a sauceboat with hot water, dry it, and fill it with the reduced tarragon liquor. Bring the poularde to the table whole, carve it there, and pass the sauce separately so each serving receives plenty. Pommes vapeur or plain rice will catch every spoonful without arguing with the tarragon. À table!

Chef Tips

• •A true poularde is a young hen raised for a plump breast and generous fat. If your butcher cannot supply one, choose a compact, well-fleshed chicken around 4 pounds. Technique first, always; a careful poach matters more than a grand label.
• •Use unsalted stock. The liquor reduces hard, and ordinary salted stock can become harsh before its flavor is concentrated enough. Add the final salt only after the sieve.
• •Buy French tarragon, with narrow leaves and a clear anise scent when rubbed between your fingers. Russian tarragon looks vigorous but tastes faint, and this dish has nowhere for a timid herb to hide.
• •Do not add flour, cream, or butter to thicken the sauce. This entry intends the poaching liquor itself, reduced and strained until the chicken and tarragon become unmistakable.
• •A dry white Burgundy or a restrained dry Chenin Blanc has enough body for the poularde without covering the tarragon. Chill it lightly, not severely.
• •Refrigerate leftover chicken and sauce separately within two hours and use them within three days. Reheat carved meat gently in a little sauce so the breast does not dry.

Advance Preparation

• •The Blanchings (No. 273) may be prepared up to 6 hours ahead, dried carefully, and kept covered in the refrigerator until the poularde is dished.
• •Cut the ordinary garnish and truss the poularde earlier in the day. Refrigerate them separately and keep the chicken covered until cooking begins.
• •Poach the bird close to serving time. The aromatics and table may wait, but a whole poached breast is most succulent after its brief rest, not after a long hold.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 275g)