Cutlets

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •12-inch (30 cm) heavy skillet, for the sautéed version
• •Broiler-safe rimmed sheet with wire rack, for the grilled version
• •Three shallow dishes for breading
• •Thin metal spatula
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the cutlets

   Trim away any heavy outside fat, leaving a narrow ribbon for flavour. If one meaty eye is much thicker than the others, place it between two sheets of parchment and tap it gently to an even ¾ inch (2 cm); don't pound it thin or strike the bone. Pat every cutlet thoroughly dry, then season both sides with the salt and pepper. A wet surface weakens either coating before the cooking has begun.

   Choose one cooking method for all eight cutlets. The breadcrumbs cover either version, while the melted and clarified butters belong to separate paths.
2. 2

   Ready the heat

   For the grilled version, position an oven rack about 5 inches (13 cm) below the broiler and preheat the broiler on high for a full 10 minutes. Set a wire rack inside a broiler-safe rimmed sheet and brush it lightly with a little melted butter. For the sautéed version, set a heavy 12-inch (30 cm) skillet on the stove, but wait to heat the clarified butter until the cutlets are coated.

3. 3

   Coat for grilling

   For the grilled version, dip each cutlet in the remaining melted butter, or brush it generously on every exposed surface. Let the excess fall away, then sprinkle both sides with fine breadcrumbs and pat them only firmly enough to adhere. This coating should be a light, even veil rather than thick armour. Arrange the cutlets on the prepared rack without letting them touch.

4. 4

   Grill under fierce heat

   Broil the buttered cutlets until the upper crust is deep golden, about 3 to 4 minutes. Turn them carefully with a thin spatula supporting the crust, then cook the second side for another 3 to 4 minutes, until the centre of the meaty eye reaches 145°F (63°C). If the crumbs darken before the lamb is ready, lower the tray one rack and loosely shield the darkest areas with foil. Ça se rattrape. If the coating clings to the rack, give it another 30 seconds of heat before trying again; a crust that has properly set releases more cleanly.

5. 5

   Coat à l’anglaise

   For the sautéed version, arrange three shallow dishes in order: the flour, the Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), and the fine breadcrumbs. Dust each cutlet lightly with flour and shake off every loose patch. Dip it completely in the Anglaise, let the excess drain, then roll it in the crumbs and press gently until the surface is evenly covered. Rest the coated cutlets on a rack for 5 minutes so the flour, Anglaise, and crumbs settle into one close crust.

   Discard every coating left in the dipping dishes once the raw lamb has passed through them.
6. 6

   Sauté in hot butter

   Heat half the clarified butter in the heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Test it with one loose crumb; it must sizzle at once. Lay in four cutlets without crowding and cook until the underside is firmly golden, about 3 minutes. Turn once with a thin spatula and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, until the centre reaches 145°F (63°C). If the coating makes no immediate sound, lift the cutlets back onto the rack, raise the heat, and return them only when the butter shimmers. Ça se rattrape. If the crumbs colour too quickly, pull the pan off the heat briefly and lower the setting. Clear away any burnt crumbs, add the remaining clarified butter, let it become hot, and cook the second batch.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Transfer the cutlets to a clean wire rack and rest them for at least 3 minutes. Don't put them on paper towels, which trap moisture against the underside and soften the crust. Serve two côtelettes per person while the coating is crisp and the butter still gleams along the edges. No separate sauce is needed. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask the butcher for eight small rib cutlets cut from two racks, with the chine removed and the bones neatly exposed. Two small cutlets per person are the book's service, not a modern flourish.
• •Use very fine, dry white breadcrumbs. Coarse flakes create bare gaps and brown unevenly; pulse dry white bread to crumbs and pass them through a sieve if the packet crumbs are too rough.
• •The grilled crust is light and buttery. The sautéed crust is denser and more protective because the flour and Anglaise bind the crumbs before they meet the fat. Choose according to the supper, not according to which sounds grander.
• •Clarified butter is still butter, with its water and milk solids removed so it can become hot enough to set the crust without scorching. Ordinary whole butter burns before the pan is ready.
• •A light red with good freshness suits the butter and lamb. Beaujolais is particularly easy at the table, lively enough for the crust and gentle enough for the small cutlets.

Advance Preparation

• •The cutlets can be trimmed, evened, and dried up to 8 hours ahead. Keep them on a rack in the refrigerator, loosely covered, then season them shortly before coating.
• •The Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174) can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead and held covered in the refrigerator. Stir it before using.
• •Cutlets for the sautéed version may be fully coated up to 30 minutes ahead and refrigerated uncovered on a rack. Coat the grilled version only just before it goes under the broiler.
• •Cook these at the last moment. Reheating cooks the small cutlets past tenderness and softens the crust, which is precisely what the method was built to protect.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 245g)