
Chef Juliette
Baron (or Pair of Hind-quarters) of Lamb
A whole saddle and its two hind legs, butter-poêlé under a close cover, carved rosy beside new vegetables and clear pan gravy: grand anatomy brought within reach of one home oven.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1365, Carré d’Agneau Mireille, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
A rosy rack of lamb settles over crisp-edged Pommes Anna streaked with artichoke, while repeated butter basting joins meat and potatoes into one generous dish for the table.
Carré d’Agneau Mireille (Mireille rack of lamb) teaches the art of bringing two clocks together. The potatoes must be three-parts tender before the lamb joins them, because a rosy rack waits for nothing and raw potatoes cannot be hurried at the finish. Know that before you touch the pan and the rest becomes calm work.
This source does not call on a saucier, a stock never off the fire, or a salamander. Its professional luxury was subtler: a dedicated cook, a special Anna mould, and enough hands to turn out and drain a potato cake while the lamb was tended elsewhere. At home, one oval earthenware dish replaces the mould and becomes the serving dish. We leave behind the turning and draining, which are brigade scaffolding here, but keep the thin potato layers, the exact one-third proportion of artichoke, the raidir in butter, and the frequent basting. Those steps are the dish.
The finished carré should be rosy beneath a burnished cap, resting on potatoes whose edges have gone crisp while their centres drink in butter and lamb juices. If the two elements finish at different moments, ça se rattrape, and the method tells you how. The step that matters most is simple: judge the potatoes honestly before the lamb meets them.
Carré d’Agneau Mireille belongs to the Parisian classical repertoire, with its Provençal reference carried by the name Mireille and by artichoke, a vegetable deeply at home around Provence and the Mediterranean coast. It is not a Provençal farmhouse roast, but a grand-kitchen composition joining a carré of lamb to Pommes Anna, the celebrated Parisian potato preparation. Its manner of service is pleasingly domestic: meat and potatoes travel together and arrive in the same earthenware dish that held them in the oven.
Quantity
1 home-scale batch Pommes de Terre Anna (No. 2203), based on about 5 medium waxy potatoes (2 lb / 900 g)
assembled in the oval serving dish
Quantity
5 to 6, yielding 2 cups (475 ml / 300 g) raw bottoms
trimmed to the bottoms and finely minced
Quantity
1 large 8-rib rack (2 to 2¼ lb / 900 g to 1 kg)
Quantity
6 tablespoons (90 ml / 85 g)
divided
Quantity
1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g)
Quantity
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Pommes de Terre Annaassembled in the oval serving dish | 1 home-scale batch Pommes de Terre Anna (No. 2203), based on about 5 medium waxy potatoes (2 lb / 900 g) |
| large globe artichokestrimmed to the bottoms and finely minced | 5 to 6, yielding 2 cups (475 ml / 300 g) raw bottoms |
| French-trimmed rack of lamb | 1 large 8-rib rack (2 to 2¼ lb / 900 g to 1 kg) |
| unsalted butterdivided | 6 tablespoons (90 ml / 85 g) |
| fine sea salt | 1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g) |
| freshly ground black pepper | ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g) |
Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C), with a rack just below the centre. Take the lamb from the cold for 30 minutes, then dry it thoroughly and season every fleshy surface with the salt and pepper. Melt 4 tablespoons (60 ml / 57 g) of the butter gently for basting and keep it warm; leave the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) solid for the raidir.
Prepare the Pommes de Terre Anna (No. 2203) in its own oval earthenware serving dish according to its entry, making the prescribed Mireille addition: distribute the raw minced artichoke bottoms among the potato layers. The artichoke weighs exactly one-third as much as the potatoes. Keep the preparation in the dish instead of turning it out or draining it, cover, and bake until three-parts cooked, about 25 to 30 minutes. A thin knife should enter the centre with distinct but yielding resistance. If it still meets a hard, raw layer, cover and bake for another 5 minutes before adding the lamb. Do not trust the clock over the knife.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat. When it foams, add the rack fat-side down and raidir it, meaning firm the exterior gently in butter, for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn it briefly against each fleshy side until the surface is pale gold and taut, not darkly crusted. If the butter blackens, lift out the lamb, wipe the skillet, and begin again with a spoonful of the reserved melted butter. Ça se rattrape. Burnt butter must not follow the lamb into the baking dish.
Uncover the three-quarter-cooked potatoes and settle the rack over them with its fat cap uppermost and the bones pointing slightly upward. Brush the lamb generously with melted butter and spoon a little over the exposed potatoes. Return the dish to the oven, uncovered, and roast for 18 to 25 minutes, basting the lamb and potatoes with the butter and juices from the dish every 4 to 5 minutes. Basting is not decoration here. It joins the two preparations and keeps the exposed surfaces glossy while they brown.
Begin checking the lamb after 16 minutes, inserting an instant-read thermometer into the centre between the ribs without touching bone. Remove it at 130 to 135°F (54 to 57°C) for rosy lamb after resting, or around 140°F (60°C) if you want it to finish near 145°F (63°C). The potatoes should be completely tender underneath and crisp-edged at the surface. If the lamb is ready first, lift it to a warm board and give the potatoes another 5 to 10 minutes. If the potatoes are ready first, shield their exposed edges loosely with foil and continue roasting the lamb. Separate the clocks when necessary, then reunite them for service.
Rest the rack on a warm board for 10 minutes while the potato dish stands in a warm place. Return the carré to its cushion of potatoes, spoon the collected butter and lamb juices over both, and wipe only the outside rim of the dish. Bring it whole to the table in the vessel that cooked it, then carve between the ribs and serve each portion with the artichoke-shot potatoes beneath. À table!
1 serving (about 390g)
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