Brochettes de Rognons

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •12-inch (30 cm) heavy skillet
• •8 flat metal skewers, about 10 inches (25 cm) long
• •Rimmed sheet pan with wire rack
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Pastry brush

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the roundels

   Set the broiler to high with a rack about 4 inches (10 cm) below the element, and let it heat thoroughly. Place a wire rack over a rimmed sheet pan. Slip the thin outer skin from each kidney with the point of a small knife, keeping the flesh intact, then cut crosswise into roundels exactly ⅓ inch (8 mm) thick. Blot every surface dry with clean towels. Hold back the seasoning until just before the kidneys meet the pan, since salt draws moisture to the surface.

   The slices must be even. Thin pieces become hard before the crumbs color, while thick ones remain undercooked when their neighbors are ready.
2. 2

   Sauté the mushrooms

   Heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) of the butter in a wide, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add the mushrooms in one uncrowded layer with a small pinch of the salt. Sauté them, tossing only after their undersides have colored, until deeply golden at the edges and dry on the surface, about 4 minutes. Transfer them to a plate. Any liquid left in the pan must evaporate before the kidneys go in.

3. 3

   Raidir the kidneys

   Wipe the skillet clean and set it over the fiercest heat your stove gives. Season the kidney roundels with the remaining salt and all the pepper. Divide 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) of butter between two batches, waiting each time until the foam nearly subsides, then lay in the kidneys without crowding. Sear for 30 to 40 seconds per side, just until the surfaces brown and stiffen while the centers remain barely touched, then lift them out immediately. If liquid floods the pan and the kidneys turn gray, stop. Ça se rattrape: remove them, pour away the liquid, wipe and reheat the skillet with fresh butter, then return the pieces for only a few seconds per side. Do not cook them through at this stage.

   Raidir is a preliminary stiffening, not the final cooking. The broiler still has work to do.
4. 4

   Thread and crumb

   Thread the kidneys onto 8 flat metal skewers, alternating them with the lean bacon prepared by Blanchings (No. 273) and the sautéed mushroom slices. Leave a thread of space between pieces so the heat can reach their edges, but no broad gaps. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) of butter and brush every surface generously. Sprinkle the brochettes with the fine breadcrumbs, turning and pressing lightly until they wear a thin, even coat rather than a heavy casing. Arrange them on the prepared rack.

5. 5

   Broil the brochettes

   Broil the skewers for about 2 minutes, turn them, and broil the second side for 1½ to 2 minutes. They are ready when the crumbs are deep butter-gold, the bacon is bronzed at its edges, and the kidney feels firm but still springy. Check the thickest roundel from the side with an instant-read thermometer; it should reach 160°F (71°C). If the crumbs darken before the kidney reaches temperature, move the pan down one rack and continue more gently. If the kidney is ready but the crumbs remain pale, lift the skewers closer to the element for 15 seconds. Both failures can be corrected, but only if you watch.

6. 6

   Serve as they stand

   Rest the brochettes for 1 minute, no longer, then carry them to the table on their skewers. Do not add a sauce or bury them under garnish. The browned crumbs, butter, bacon, and mushroom are the finish the source intended, generous enough without ornament. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Buy kidneys that are plump and glossy with a clean, mild mineral smell. An ammoniac or sharply sour odor means they are tired, and soaking won't repair them. Change the plan, not the standard.
• •Mutton kidney gives the fullest flavor, while lamb kidney is smaller and milder. Beef kidney is too large and strongly flavored for these little roundels, so it isn't an honest substitute.
• •Bread raspings were made by rubbing a dry loaf into fine crumbs. Plain fine dry breadcrumbs are their direct home equivalent; coarse panko makes a separate crust and changes the dish.
• •For an outdoor barbecue, use flat metal skewers over fierce direct heat and close the lid between turns so radiant heat reaches the crumbs. Keep a cooler zone ready in case the butter causes flare-ups.
• •A lively Gamay or light Cabernet Franc has enough freshness for the kidney and bacon without overpowering the mushrooms. Serve the brochettes immediately, because reheating toughens them.

Advance Preparation

• •Complete the bacon preparation through Blanchings (No. 273) before beginning; the recipe time assumes this referenced component is ready. It can be chilled for up to 1 day before being cut into squares.
• •The mushrooms may be sautéed up to 4 hours ahead and kept chilled. Bring them back toward room temperature before threading so they do not cool the kidneys.
• •The kidneys may be skinned and sliced up to 2 hours ahead. Lay them on clean towels in a covered container in the refrigerator, then blot them again immediately before seasoning.
• •Do not sear, assemble, or crumb the brochettes far in advance. The first cook should flow directly into threading and broiling, or the kidneys tighten and the crumb coat becomes damp.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 175g)