Langues de Bœuf Froides

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •4-quart nonreactive container with lid and a small nonreactive plate or weight
• •8-quart heavy stockpot with lid
• •Rolling pin and clean metal skewer
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Parchment paper and silicone pastry brush
• •Wire rack, rimmed tray, and oval serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Prick and brine

   Lay the trimmed tongue on a clean board and tap the thick root firmly with a rolling pin, enough to relax the dense muscle without flattening it. Prick it all over at roughly 1-inch (2.5 cm) intervals with a clean metal skewer. Place it in a 4-quart nonreactive container, cover completely with the fully chilled Brine (No. 172), and hold it beneath the surface with a small nonreactive plate or weight. Cover and refrigerate at or below 40°F (4°C) for seven full days, turning the tongue once daily. A medium tongue needs no syringe; that equipment belonged to cuts too large for brine to penetrate evenly.

   The curing mixture must be prepared exactly according to its own formula and chilled before it touches the meat. Never estimate curing salts, and never reuse the brine after the tongue comes out.
2. 2

   Soak out excess salt

   Lift the tongue from the brine and discard the used liquid. Rinse the tongue, place it in a clean container with 3 quarts (2.8 L) of cold water, and refrigerate for three hours, changing the water once halfway through. This removes harsh surface salinity without drawing out the cure that has reached the center. Drain and rinse once more.

3. 3

   Simmer without boiling

   Put the tongue in a heavy stockpot and add the remaining 4 quarts (3.8 L) of cold water, or enough to cover it by 2 inches (5 cm). Bring the water just to the first boil, then immediately lower the heat and hold it between 185°F and 195°F (85°C and 90°C), with only an occasional lazy bubble. Partially cover and cook for three hours, adding water if the tongue begins to emerge. Plain water is deliberate; the source adds no aromatics. If the pot begins boiling hard, slide it from the burner, lower the heat, and add a cup of cold water. At three hours, a narrow knife should enter the thickest part with little resistance; if it still feels firm, continue at the same gentle simmer in 20-minute intervals.

   A hard boil contracts the muscle and makes the tongue tough. Time cannot correct violent heat, so keep the surface at a tremble from beginning to end.
4. 4

   Skin while warm

   Lift the tongue from its cooking liquor and let it stand only until your hands can manage it, about five minutes. Slit the rough outer skin along the underside, catch an edge with a small knife, and peel it away while the tongue is still hot. Trim any remaining gristle from the root without cutting into the meat. If the skin clings, do not carve it off and waste the tongue; return that section to the hot cooking liquor for five minutes, then try again.

5. 5

   Protect and chill

   Spread the softened butter over one side of a sheet of parchment and press the buttered side directly against the entire surface of the warm tongue. Wrap it closely, set it on a rimmed tray, and refrigerate until completely cold, at least four hours and preferably overnight. This replaces the source's buttered paper without changing its purpose: air darkens cooked tongue, while the close buttery covering preserves its clean color. Get it into the refrigerator within two hours of leaving the pot.

6. 6

   Make the scarlet glaze

   Sprinkle the gelatine gradually over the ½ cup plus 1½ tablespoons (140 ml) of cold water, whisking as you go to prevent dry pockets. Let it stand for ten minutes; it will become extremely stiff, which is correct for this concentrated coating. Set the bowl over gently warmed water and stir until the gelatine is perfectly clear and fluid, never boiling. Add one drop of carmine, then a second only if needed, followed by the caramel. The color should be translucent scarlet warmed with amber, not opaque red. Let the glaze cool until it moves like thin honey. If it sets in the bowl, place it back over warm water and stir until fluid again.

   This is one-quarter of the source's glaze batch, with its gelatine-to-water ratio preserved. It is intentionally much firmer than table jelly because it must cling in a very thin film.
7. 7

   Glaze in thin coats

   Unwrap the cold tongue and blot away every trace of moisture. Set it on a wire rack over a chilled tray and brush on a very thin coat of glaze, covering the top and sides. Chill for ten minutes, then repeat until the surface has an even scarlet sheen, usually three coats; turn the tongue once and coat the underside lightly. If the glaze runs off, it is too warm or the tongue is damp, so blot the surface and wait two minutes. If it drags into ridges, warm the bowl briefly. A streaked first coat is no verdict; the next thin coat corrects it.

8. 8

   Dish with aspic

   Transfer the glazed tongue to a chilled oval platter. Arrange the aspic jelly dice generously around it and tuck small branches of curly-leaf parsley between the dice, keeping the tongue itself visible. Present it whole, then slice it across the grain about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick at the table. Dip the carving knife in hot water and wipe it dry between cuts so it passes cleanly through the glaze. Keep the platter cold until serving. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Order a fresh, uncured tongue from the butcher. A commercially corned tongue has already been salted and cannot take another week in curing brine without becoming punishingly salty.
• •Use glass, food-safe plastic, or stainless steel for brining. Copper, aluminum, and other reactive metals can discolor the meat and react with the curing mixture.
• •The gelatine glaze is a coating, not a thick jelly blanket. Three fine coats give gloss and protection; one heavy coat turns rubbery and hides the shape of the tongue.
• •Carmine is derived from cochineal and can cause rare allergic reactions. Use only certified food-grade coloring, tell guests when appropriate, and never substitute an artist's pigment.
• •For a picnic, carry the tongue, aspic, and parsley in a well-iced cooler and assemble the platter at the table. A light, cool Gamay suits the salty richness without overwhelming the cold aspic.

Advance Preparation

• •Begin the brining seven full days before cooking. Do not shorten it; the waiting seasons the dense tongue evenly and is part of the dish.
• •The tongue can be simmered, skinned, wrapped in buttered parchment, and chilled one day before serving. Keeping it whole and closely covered prevents drying and darkening.
• •Apply the gelatine glaze up to twelve hours ahead and refrigerate the tongue loosely covered, taking care that wrapping does not touch the finished surface.
• •Prepare and set the aspic a day ahead, but cut it into dice close to serving so the edges remain clean. Refrigerated leftovers keep for three days; freezing spoils the glaze and makes the aspic weep.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 410g)