Fish Cakes

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •3-quart heavy saucepan with high sides
• •Deep-frying thermometer
• •Digital scale for 2-ounce portions
• •Potato ricer or firm potato masher
• •Wire spider or slotted spoon
• •Wire cooling rack and rimmed tray

Instructions

1. 1

   Dry the potato

   Cover the potatoes with cold water, bring them to a gentle boil, and cook until a knife passes through without resistance, about 12 to 15 minutes. Drain them thoroughly, return them to the dry hot pan, and shake over low heat for 1 minute until their surface looks floury. Weigh out 8 ounces (227 g), then pass it through a ricer while hot. If the potato still looks wet or glossy, keep it over low heat for another minute. Ça se rattrape now; once the eggs enter, that excess water is much harder to correct.

   Choose a floury potato intended for mashing. A waxy potato stays dense and slick, while a dry floury one binds the fish without turning the croquette heavy.
2. 2

   Reduce the Béchamel

   Put the Béchamel in the smallest saucepan you own and simmer it gently, stirring constantly, until ¼ cup has reduced to 2 tablespoons and falls heavily from the spoon. Scrape it into a shallow dish and let it cool until merely warm. The reduction matters: ordinary pouring Béchamel carries too much water and makes a paste that slumps.

3. 3

   Beat the paste

   Spread the cod on a clean towel and press firmly to remove any remaining moisture, then check it again for skin and bones. Put it in a sturdy bowl with the hot riced potato and pound with a wooden spoon or firm potato masher until the flakes have broken down and the mixture looks even. Beat in the reduced Béchamel, then the eggs one at a time, working vigorously until the paste is smooth and cohesive. Add the pepper, fry a teaspoonful of paste in a small pan, and taste before adding any salt. If the paste feels too soft to hold a ball, set the bowl over ice and beat until cold and firm, about 10 minutes. Don't bury the problem with breadcrumbs; they change the cake.

4. 4

   Portion and shape

   Dust the board lightly with flour. Divide the paste into fourteen portions of about 2 ounces (57 g) each, roll them into balls with floured hands, and flatten them into thick quoits, round cakes about 2½ inches (6 cm) wide and ¾ inch (2 cm) thick. Keep the edges smooth and compact. If a rim cracks, pinch it closed now, since every crack becomes an invitation for the filling to escape.

5. 5

   Apply the Anglaise

   Coat every cake completely with the Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), following that preparation as written. Set the coated croquettes on a tray without stacking them and inspect the sides as carefully as the faces. If you find a bald patch, cover it before frying. Ça se rattrape on the tray; in the fat, an uncovered patch becomes a leak.

6. 6

   Heat the frying fat

   Pour the oil into a heavy 3-quart saucepan, leaving at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) of clear space above it. Clip on a thermometer and heat the oil to 365°F (185°C). This is the home equivalent of the service fryer, and the thermometer removes the guesswork. Set a wire rack over a tray beside the stove so the fried crust stays crisp rather than sweating against paper.

7. 7

   Fry at the last moment

   Lower three or four croquettes into the fat with a spider and fry until deep golden brown, turning once if needed, about 3 to 4 minutes. The center should reach 160°F (71°C). Keep the fat between 350°F and 365°F (175°C and 185°C), letting it recover fully before the next batch. If a cake opens, lift it out at once and allow the oil to return to temperature; inspect the remaining croquettes and close any weak patches with more Anglaise before continuing. Drain each batch on the rack and season very lightly only if the fried tasting sample showed the cod needed it.

8. 8

   Finish with parsley

   When the croquettes are finished, make certain the parsley is completely dry. Lower a few sprigs at a time into the hot fat with the spider, step back from the pan, and fry for about 10 seconds until dark green and crisp. Drain well. Arrange the croquettes on a folded napkin or absorbent paper on a warm platter, place the fried parsley all around, and serve immediately. À table!

Chef Tips

• •If you're beginning with dry salt cod, soak it in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, changing the water several times, then poach it at the barest tremble until it flakes. Cool and press it dry before weighing. This belongs in the advance work; once the cod is ready, the croquettes fit one cook, one stove, one evening.
• •The source permits any boiled fish, but names salt cod as the best choice. Fresh cod will work if poached gently and pressed very dry, though you'll need more salt and the filling will taste milder.
• •Reduced means reduced. The Béchamel should be thick enough to fall from the spoon in a heavy mass, not pour in a ribbon. Keep it on real butter and whole milk; the small amount carries both flavor and binding power.
• •Don't crowd the pan. Four croquettes cost less time than fishing a broken dozen from oil that has gone cold. Serve them as written with fried parsley, perhaps with a sharp green salad alongside and a dry Muscadet in the glass.

Advance Preparation

• •Salt cod can be soaked, poached, cleared of bones, and refrigerated up to 2 days ahead. Press it dry before weighing and mixing.
• •The Béchamel can be reduced and chilled a day ahead. Let it soften slightly before beating it into the paste.
• •The croquettes can be shaped, coated, and refrigerated in a single layer for up to 8 hours. Keep them covered after the coating has set, then fry directly from the cold while monitoring the oil temperature.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 240g)