Rouget au Fenouil

Rouget au fenouil (red mullet with fennel) teaches the discipline of cuisson en papillote, cooking in a sealed paper parcel. The wrapping is not packaging. It is the cooking vessel, holding the fennel against the fish while lemon, parsley, and pork fat collect beneath it in glossy, fragrant juices. Know one thing before touching the grill: seal the parcel tightly, then cook it gently.

The original assumed strong oiled paper, a double fish grill, and brigade quantities of prepared marinade. It needed no saucier, stockpot, or salamander, but its paper could face a professional fire without complaint. At home, heavy parchment preserves the enclosed cooking, while an outer sheet of foil protects that parchment from flame. Four small fish replace a service quantity, and only a measured portion of the finished Cooked Marinade for Venison (No. 168) is needed. The five-quart batch is brigade scaffolding. The cisel cuts, chopped fennel, raw pork fat, close wrapping, and gentle grill are the dish itself, so they stay.

The finished rouget should emerge coral-red and glistening, with tender flesh that lifts cleanly from the backbone and fennel-scented juices gathered in the paper. Guard the seam above all. If a parcel tears, spoon back the escaped juices and wrap it again. Ça se rattrape.