Chef Graziella
Asparagi e Uova alla Veneta
The Venetian celebration of spring, where prized white asparagus meets butter-fried eggs and the yolk becomes the only sauce you need. This is restraint as philosophy.
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Torta Salata con Zucchine
Created by
A savory Italian vegetable tart where sliced zucchini, bound with eggs and a whisper of cheese, fills a simple olive oil crust. This is not quiche. This is simpler, lighter, and more honest.
Breakfast & Brunch
Italian
Weeknight
Make Ahead
Potluck
45 min
Active Time
45 min cook•1 hr 30 min total
Yield8 servings
Americans think savory tart and they think French, heavy with cream and butter. Italians think torta salata and they think of what grows in the garden: zucchini in summer, chard in autumn, artichokes in spring. The vegetable is the point. Everything else exists only to hold it together.
This tart requires zucchini that taste like something. The pale, overgrown specimens sold in supermarkets will not do. You want small, firm zucchini with taut skin and no seeds visible when sliced. If you press a fingernail into the skin and it resists, the zucchini is worth buying. If it yields, walk away.
The crust is made with olive oil, not butter. It is not flaky. It is not meant to be. It provides a simple foundation, nothing more. The filling is eggs, a modest amount of cheese, and the zucchini you have prepared with care. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. There is no cream here. No milk. No unnecessary herbs competing for attention. The zucchini speaks for itself.
Torte salate appear across northern Italy, from Liguria's torta pasqualina to Emilia-Romagna's erbazzone. These savory pies emerged from the cucina povera tradition, where seasonal vegetables stretched precious eggs and cheese into meals that could feed a family. The zucchini version became popular in summer months when the squash threatened to overtake every garden.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
small zucchini
Quantity
2 pounds
firm, with taut skin
kosher salt
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
divided
extra virgin olive oil
Quantity
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons
for filling
yellow onion
Quantity
1 medium
sliced thin
all-purpose flour
Quantity
2 cups
fine sea salt
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
extra virgin olive oil
Quantity
1/3 cup
for crust
cold water
Quantity
1/3 cup
large eggs
Quantity
4
ricotta
Quantity
1/2 cup
drained if wet
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Quantity
1/2 cup
freshly grated
black pepper
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
fresh basil
Quantity
8 leaves
torn
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small zucchinifirm, with taut skin | 2 pounds |
| kosher saltdivided | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| extra virgin olive oilfor filling | 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons |
| yellow onionsliced thin | 1 medium |
| all-purpose flour | 2 cups |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oilfor crust | 1/3 cup |
| cold water | 1/3 cup |
| large eggs | 4 |
| ricottadrained if wet | 1/2 cup |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofreshly grated | 1/2 cup |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| fresh basiltorn | 8 leaves |
Equipment Needed
- •Mandoline or sharp knife for slicing zucchini
- •10-inch tart pan or 9-by-13-inch baking dish
- •Large skillet
- •Rolling pin
Instructions
- 1
Salt the zucchini
Trim the ends from the zucchini and slice them into thin rounds, no thicker than one-eighth inch. A mandoline helps, but a sharp knife and patience work as well. Place the slices in a colander, toss with one teaspoon of the kosher salt, and set over a bowl. Let them weep for 30 minutes. The salt draws moisture that would otherwise make your tart soggy.
Squeeze the zucchini gently in a clean kitchen towel after salting. You want them dry but not crushed. Some moisture remains. This is correct. - 2
Make the crust
While the zucchini drain, make the dough. Combine the flour and fine sea salt in a bowl. Add the olive oil and mix with a fork until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Add the cold water and stir until a shaggy dough forms. Turn it onto a lightly floured surface and knead briefly, no more than one minute. The dough should be smooth but not elastic. Wrap in plastic and let rest while you prepare the filling.
This is not pastry dough. Do not overwork it, but do not fear it either. Olive oil dough forgives in ways butter dough does not. - 3
Cook the onion and zucchini
In a large skillet, warm the quarter cup of olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until soft and pale gold, about 12 minutes. Do not let it brown. Add the drained zucchini slices and cook, stirring gently, until they soften and turn slightly translucent, another 8 to 10 minutes. They should not brown or crisp. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.
- 4
Prepare the filling
In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the remaining half teaspoon of salt and generous grindings of black pepper. Add the ricotta and half the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Stir until combined. Fold in the cooled zucchini mixture and the torn basil leaves. The filling should be thick with vegetables, not swimming in egg.
- 5
Roll and line the pan
Heat your oven to 375 degrees. Oil a 10-inch tart pan or a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a round or rectangle slightly larger than your pan. It will be about one-eighth inch thick. Transfer to the pan and press gently into the corners. Trim excess dough, leaving a half-inch overhang. Fold this under to create a slightly thicker edge.
- 6
Fill and bake
Pour the zucchini filling into the crust and spread evenly. The zucchini should form a relatively flat layer with the egg mixture just visible between the slices. Scatter the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top. Drizzle with the two tablespoons of olive oil. Bake until the crust is golden, the filling is set, and the top shows spots of deeper color, 40 to 45 minutes. The center should not jiggle when you shake the pan gently.
- 7
Rest and serve
Let the tart rest in the pan for at least 15 minutes before cutting. This allows the filling to set completely and makes slicing cleaner. Serve warm or at room temperature. The tart is excellent for breakfast, packed for lunch, or served as a light supper with a green salad. It keeps overnight and travels well, which is why Italian home cooks have made it for generations.
Chef Tips
- •The zucchini must be sliced thin and salted properly. Skip this step and your tart will weep liquid onto the plate. There are no shortcuts here.
- •Ricotta varies widely in moisture. If yours is wet (you can tell by pressing a spoon against it), drain it in a fine-mesh sieve for an hour before using.
- •This tart improves as it sits. Make it in the morning for an evening meal, or the night before for breakfast. The flavors meld and the texture firms.
- •In winter, when zucchini is not worth eating, substitute Swiss chard. Remove the stems, chop the leaves, and wilt them in olive oil before adding to the filling.
Advance Preparation
- •The dough can be made a day ahead, wrapped tightly, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before rolling.
- •The completed tart keeps for two days refrigerated. Serve at room temperature or reheat briefly in a 325-degree oven.
- •The tart travels excellently at room temperature, which makes it ideal for potlucks and picnics.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 180g)
Calories
400 calories
Total Fat
26 g
Saturated Fat
6 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
18 g
Cholesterol
105 mg
Sodium
720 mg
Total Carbohydrates
30 g
Dietary Fiber
2 g
Sugars
4 g
Protein
12 g
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