Crespelle alla Fiorentina

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Blender for the batter
• •7 or 8-inch nonstick skillet or crepe pan
• •Large pot for blanching spinach
• •Medium saucepan for besciamella
• •9-by-13-inch baking dish
• •Fine-mesh strainer (if draining ricotta)

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the crespelle batter

   In a blender, combine the eggs, flour, milk, water, salt, and melted butter. Blend until completely smooth, about 30 seconds. The batter should be thinner than pancake batter, more like heavy cream. Pour into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. The resting allows the flour to hydrate fully and the bubbles to settle. You will have a more tender crepe.

   The batter can rest overnight. In fact, it improves. Make it the evening before your dinner party and one task is already complete.
2. 2

   Cook the spinach

   Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spinach and cook just until wilted, about 2 minutes. Drain immediately and run under cold water to stop the cooking and set the bright green color. This is called shocking, and it matters.

3. 3

   Squeeze the spinach dry

   Take handfuls of the cooled spinach and squeeze with all your strength. The water must come out. When you think you are finished, squeeze again. Then again. The spinach should form a compact, nearly dry ball. If your hands do not ache, you have not squeezed enough. Chop the spinach finely and set aside.

   This is the step that separates success from failure. Wet spinach will make your filling loose and your crespelle will weep onto the plate. I cannot emphasize this enough.
4. 4

   Make the filling

   In a large bowl, combine the chopped spinach, ricotta, egg yolk, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly with a fork until uniform. The mixture should be thick enough to hold its shape on a spoon. Taste it. Adjust the seasoning now, not later.

5. 5

   Cook the crespelle

   Heat a 7 or 8-inch nonstick skillet or well-seasoned crepe pan over medium heat. Brush lightly with melted butter. Lift the pan from the heat, pour in about 3 tablespoons of batter, and immediately swirl to coat the bottom in a thin, even layer. Return to heat and cook until the edges begin to look dry and the bottom is lightly golden, about 1 minute. Flip carefully with your fingers or a thin spatula and cook 20 seconds more. Stack the finished crespelle on a plate. You should have 12 to 14 crepes.

   The first crepe is nearly always imperfect. Do not be discouraged. By the third or fourth, you will find your rhythm. Stack them without wax paper between; they will not stick if properly cooked.
6. 6

   Make the besciamella

   In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk constantly for 2 minutes. The mixture should bubble gently but not brown. Pour in the warm milk in a steady stream, whisking continuously to prevent lumps. Continue whisking until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat, add the nutmeg, and season with salt. The sauce should be pourable, not thick like paste.

   Warm the milk before adding it. Cold milk shocks the roux and creates lumps that no amount of whisking will smooth. This is elementary technique.
7. 7

   Fill and roll the crespelle

   Lay a crespella flat on your work surface, prettier side down. Place about 2 tablespoons of filling in a line across the lower third. Roll up firmly but not too tightly. The crepe should hold its shape without bursting. Repeat with remaining crespelle and filling.

8. 8

   Assemble the dish

   Heat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish generously. Spread a thin layer of besciamella on the bottom. Arrange the rolled crespelle seam-side down in a single layer. They may touch but should not overlap. Pour the remaining besciamella over the top, covering the crepes completely. Scatter the Parmigiano-Reggiano evenly over all.

9. 9

   Bake until golden

   Bake until the top is golden brown and the edges bubble vigorously, 25 to 30 minutes. The besciamella should form a light crust where it meets the hot edges of the dish. Let rest 5 minutes before serving. The filling needs this time to set. Serve two crespelle per person as a first course, or three as a main dish.

Chef Tips

• •If your ricotta is wet (supermarket ricotta often is), drain it in a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl for several hours before using. Wet ricotta makes wet filling, and wet filling ruins everything.
• •Fresh spinach is worth the extra work. Frozen spinach can be used if necessary, but you must thaw it completely and squeeze it even more aggressively. The water content is higher.
• •The crespelle can be made a day ahead and stacked, wrapped in plastic. Bring to room temperature before filling, or they may crack.
• •A gratin dish is traditional and beautiful, but any baking dish works. The proportions matter more than the material.

Advance Preparation

• •The crespelle batter can rest refrigerated overnight. The crespelle themselves can be cooked a day ahead, stacked, wrapped tightly, and refrigerated.
• •The filling can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. Let it come to room temperature before filling the crespelle.
• •The dish can be assembled completely, covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerated up to 8 hours before baking. Add 5 to 10 minutes to the baking time if baking cold.
• •Leftovers reheat beautifully in a 350°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes, loosely covered with foil.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 320g)