
Chef Graziella
Asparagi e Uova alla Veneta
The Venetian celebration of spring, where prized white asparagus meets butter-fried eggs and the yolk becomes the only sauce you need. This is restraint as philosophy.
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The great Easter pie of Liguria, where paper-thin pastry enfolds a filling of greens and ricotta with whole eggs nestled inside, their yolks set but still golden when you slice through.
Torta Pasqualina is labor. There is no other way to say it. Ligurian women once stretched thirty-three layers of dough, one for each year of Christ's life, each sheet so thin you could read a letter through it. They did this on wooden boards in cramped kitchens, working by feel, their hands knowing when the dough had reached the point of transparency.
I will not pretend you must make thirty-three layers. Six to eight, properly thin and properly oiled, will give you the crisp, shattering crust that defines this pie. What I will not permit is the substitution of frozen puff pastry. That is not Torta Pasqualina. That is something else wearing its name.
The filling matters as much as the crust. Prescinsêua, the curdled milk cheese of Liguria, is traditional but nearly impossible to find outside Genoa. Good ricotta, well-drained, serves honorably. The greens should be chard or a mixture of wild herbs if you can find them. Spinach is acceptable. The marjoram is not negotiable. This herb defines Ligurian cooking, and without it you have lost the soul of the dish.
The eggs go in whole, nestled into wells pressed into the filling, where they bake until the whites set but the yolks remain soft and golden. When you cut the first slice and see that perfect yolk, you will understand why Ligurian families have made this pie for Easter since at least the sixteenth century.
Torta Pasqualina appears in Ligurian documents from the 1500s, though the tradition is certainly older. The thirty-three layers of dough represented the years of Christ's life, making this pie both sustenance and devotion. Genoese merchants spread variations throughout their Mediterranean trading empire, but the authentic version remains stubbornly Ligurian, inseparable from the prescinsêua cheese and wild herbs of the coastal hills.
Quantity
500g
plus more for dusting
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup for brushing
Quantity
about 1 cup
Quantity
1 kg
tough stems removed
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small
diced fine
Quantity
2
minced
Quantity
500g
well-drained
Quantity
100g
freshly grated
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
6
Quantity
5
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for dusting | 500g |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup for brushing |
| warm water | about 1 cup |
| Swiss chard or spinachtough stems removed | 1 kg |
| extra virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| yellow oniondiced fine | 1 small |
| garlic clovesminced | 2 |
| fresh ricottawell-drained | 500g |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofreshly grated | 100g |
| fresh marjoram leaveschopped | 2 tablespoons |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| large eggs for filling mixture | 6 |
| whole eggs for embedding | 5 |
Mound the flour on a wooden board and make a well in the center. Add the salt, three tablespoons olive oil, and half the warm water. Begin mixing with a fork, gradually incorporating flour from the walls of the well. Add more water as needed until a shaggy dough forms. Knead vigorously for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth, elastic, and springs back when pressed. It should feel like your earlobe. Divide into 8 equal pieces, shape into balls, coat lightly with oil, cover with a damp towel, and rest for at least 30 minutes. The dough must relax or it will fight you.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the chard or spinach and cook until completely tender, about 5 minutes for chard, 2 minutes for spinach. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. When cool enough to handle, squeeze the greens with your hands until absolutely dry. This is critical. Wet greens will make soggy pastry. Chop the greens finely.
Heat three tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook slowly until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. The onion must not brown. Add the garlic and cook one minute more. Add the chopped greens and stir to combine. Cook for 3 minutes to drive off any remaining moisture. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool completely.
To the cooled greens, add the drained ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, marjoram, nutmeg, and generous seasoning of salt and pepper. Beat 6 eggs lightly and fold them into the mixture. The filling should be cohesive but not wet. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Remember that the eggs and cheese are unseasoned, so the filling needs enough salt to carry the whole pie.
Work on a large, lightly floured surface. Take one ball of dough and roll it with a thin rolling pin as far as it will go. Then, using the backs of your hands with fingers curled under, stretch the dough from the center outward, working around the circle, pulling gently until it becomes nearly transparent. You should be able to see your hand through it. The sheet should be larger than your pan. Set aside on a floured towel and repeat with remaining dough balls. Work quickly once stretched, as the dough will dry out.
Preheat your oven to 190°C (375°F). Brush a 25-centimeter springform pan or deep pie dish generously with olive oil. Drape the first sheet of dough into the pan, letting the excess hang over the edges. Brush thoroughly with olive oil. Repeat with 3 more sheets, brushing each with oil. The layers should completely cover the bottom and sides with overhang on all sides. These bottom layers create the structural foundation.
Spread the filling evenly over the bottom layers, smoothing the surface. Using the back of a spoon, make 5 evenly spaced wells in the filling, pressing down to create deep indentations but not breaking through to the pastry. Crack one whole egg into each well, keeping the yolks intact. These eggs are the surprise inside, the golden centers that appear when you slice the finished pie.
Drape the remaining 4 sheets of dough over the filling, one at a time, brushing each thoroughly with olive oil. Take care not to disturb the eggs beneath. Gather the overhanging edges of all the dough sheets and roll them inward to form a decorative border, sealing the filling completely. Brush the top generously with olive oil. Using a sharp knife, cut 3 small slits in the top to allow steam to escape.
Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until the top is deep golden brown and the pastry sounds hollow when tapped. The layers should be crisp and shattering, not soft. If the top browns too quickly, tent loosely with foil for the final 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest in the pan for at least 20 minutes before unmolding. The pie needs this time to set, and the filling will slice more cleanly when slightly cooled.
Remove the springform ring carefully. Torta Pasqualina is served warm or at room temperature, never hot from the oven. Cut into wedges with a sharp knife, taking care to cut cleanly through the eggs. Each slice should reveal the layers of pastry, the green filling, and the golden yolk at its center. This is the moment that justifies all the work.
1 serving (about 210g)
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