
Chef Takumi
Buri no Teriyaki (鰤の照り焼き, yellowtail teriyaki)
Winter buri asks for restraint: a dry sear, a small pan of soy, mirin, sake, and sugar, then patient basting until the glaze shines like lacquer and the fish stays tender.
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Mie's working-town pork steak is a plain pleasure: thick shoulder scored at the edges, seared until browned, then pulled through a dark garlic sauce with cabbage waiting beside it.
Tonteki is not a delicate dish, and it would be silly to make it whisper. This is Yokkaichi pork steak: thick pork, garlic, dark sauce, shredded cabbage, rice. It has the blunt honesty of food made for appetite, not display, though we still give it room on the plate. Loud food can be orderly too.
The one detail that decides it is the cut. A thick pork steak wants to curl and tighten when it hits the pan, especially where the fat and sinew run along the edge. Score it deeply from one side so it opens like a glove, the Yokkaichi way, and suddenly the heat reaches the center, the pork lies flat, and the sauce can cling between the cuts. The knife has done half the cooking before the pan is hot.
Use pork shoulder loin if you can, katā rosu, with enough fat to stay juicy. Lean pork loin will work, but it asks more care and gives less back. Sear first, sauce last. Worcestershire, soy, sake, mirin, sugar, and garlic turn dark and glossy in a minute or two, but leave them too long over fierce heat and they turn harsh. The sauce should coat the pork, not punish it.
This is not kaiseki, and it doesn't need to pretend. It belongs to the everyday Japanese table, where rice makes sense of salt and sauce, and shredded cabbage cuts the richness cleanly. Nothing hidden. Buy good pork, cut it properly, brown it hard, and stop when the glaze shines.
Yokkaichi tonteki became a local specialty in Yokkaichi, Mie Prefecture, in the early postwar decades, with many accounts tracing the style to the restaurant Rairaiken and its thick pork steaks in a dark garlic sauce. The local Tonteki Association later defined the dish by four marks: thick sauteed pork, a blackish sauce, garlic, and shredded cabbage. The name is plain shorthand, ton for pork and teki from steak, a Western word made fully local at the Japanese table.
Quantity
2 pieces (about 225g each)
1 to 1 1/4 inches thick, fat left on
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
6
peeled and lightly crushed
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
4 cups
very thinly shredded, chilled, and well drained
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless pork shoulder loin steaks or thick pork loin chops1 to 1 1/4 inches thick, fat left on | 2 pieces (about 225g each) |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| garlic clovespeeled and lightly crushed | 6 |
| Japanese Worcestershire sauce | 3 tablespoons |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| mirin | 1 tablespoon |
| sake | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| green cabbagevery thinly shredded, chilled, and well drained | 4 cups |
| cooked Japanese short-grain rice (optional) | for serving |
Shred the cabbage as finely as you can, soak it in cold water for five minutes, then drain it very well. The cold water firms the cut edges so the cabbage stays crisp beside the hot pork. Dry it properly, because wet cabbage thins the sauce the moment it touches the plate.
Stir together the Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, mirin, sake, and sugar until the sugar dissolves. This is the tare, the finishing sauce. Keep it ready by the stove, because once the pork is browned, the sauce should go in quickly and reduce briefly.
Pat the pork dry. From the fat side, make four or five deep cuts toward the far edge, stopping before you cut all the way through, so each steak opens like a glove and still stays one piece. Nick any tight bands of fat or sinew around the edge. This keeps the pork from curling, helps the center cook evenly, and gives the glaze more places to cling. Season both sides with the salt and pepper.
Set a heavy frying pan over medium heat and add the oil and garlic. Cook the garlic until pale gold and fragrant, then lift it out to a small plate. Starting the garlic in cooler oil perfumes the pan without burning it. Burnt garlic is bitter, and no sauce will politely hide that for you.
Raise the heat to medium-high and lay in the pork, opened side down if one side is more cut than the other. Press it lightly for the first few seconds so the cut faces meet the pan, then leave it alone until the underside is deeply browned, about three minutes. Turn and brown the second side, another two to three minutes. Moving it too much steals the browning you came for.
Lower the heat to medium. Return the garlic to the pan, pour the tare around the pork, and spoon the bubbling sauce over the top for one to two minutes, until it turns glossy and clings to the cuts. Pull the pork when the center reaches 63 C or 145 F, then rest it for three minutes. The short reduction gathers the browned pan juices into the sauce; a long boil tightens the pork and makes the Worcestershire harsh.
Set a modest mound of shredded cabbage to one side of each plate. Lay the tonteki beside it, still shaped as one steak, and spoon over just enough dark sauce to gloss the pork and leave a little for the cabbage to catch. Add the garlic cloves on top or alongside. Serve at once with hot short-grain rice.
1 serving (about 475g)
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