
Chef Jeong-sun
Albaechu-mul-kimchi (Baby Cabbage Water Kimchi)
Tender baby napa cabbage in a clear pear-garlic brine, lightly fermented until the broth turns clean and bright, the summer kimchi a beginner can make without a kimjang floor.
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Ganghwa's purple-topped turnip made into a pale, clean kimchi, salted carefully and fermented slowly so its peppery sweetness stays clear.
Cook the month you're standing in. Sunmu belongs to the cold edge of the year, when Ganghwa's turnips come from the field dense, purple at the shoulder, white inside, and sharp enough to remind you they are kin to mustard. Use them in late autumn and winter if you can. Out of season, make a small batch and don't pretend it will taste the same.
This kimchi lives or dies by salting. Too little salt and the turnip tastes raw and flat after fermenting. Too much and its own peppery sweetness is lost. My teacher Master Seong-nyeo made us cut the pieces the same thickness before we ever touched the brine, because uneven pieces ferment like a noisy room: one sour, one hard, one already tired. I write it as 2.5 percent salt by weight. 손맛 is real; I measure it anyway.
There is no chili paste here, and that is not an absence. The turnip carries its own clean bite, helped by garlic, ginger, scallion, pear, and a light rice paste that gives the fermentation something steady to eat. Pack it under its brine, leave it at room temperature just until it begins to speak, then move it cold. Tonight it asks for a scale, a sharp knife, and patience. Not much theater. Good kimchi rarely needs it.
Ganghwa sunmu, the purple-topped turnip grown on Ganghwa Island, is closely associated with the island's sandy, salty soil and has been recorded as a local specialty since the Joseon period. Older forms of turnip kimchi were white kimchi, made before chili became common in Korean kimchi after peppers arrived from the Americas in the late sixteenth century. Ganghwa's version remains distinct because the turnip itself has a mustardy bite, so the kimchi can be brined and fermented without gochugaru and still taste vivid.
Quantity
1.5kg
trimmed, scrubbed, leaves reserved if tender
Quantity
38g, about 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon
Quantity
300g
cut into 1/4-inch batons
Quantity
120g
peeled and cut into 1/4-inch batons
Quantity
40g
cut into 1 1/2-inch lengths
Quantity
20g
peeled and thinly sliced
Quantity
18g
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 small
thinly sliced
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon maesil-cheong or 2 teaspoons sugar
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
finely minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, if needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Ganghwa sunmu (purple Korean turnips)trimmed, scrubbed, leaves reserved if tender | 1.5kg |
| coarse sea salt | 38g, about 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon |
| Korean radishcut into 1/4-inch batons | 300g |
| Asian pearpeeled and cut into 1/4-inch batons | 120g |
| scallionscut into 1 1/2-inch lengths | 40g |
| fresh gingerpeeled and thinly sliced | 20g |
| garlicthinly sliced | 18g |
| fresh green chili (optional)thinly sliced | 1 small |
| water | 2 cups |
| sweet rice flour | 1 tablespoon |
| maesil-cheong (green plum syrup) or sugar | 1 tablespoon maesil-cheong or 2 teaspoons sugar |
| saeujeot (salted shrimp) (optional)finely minced | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| fish sauce (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| cold water for final brine | 1 cup |
| fine sea salt for final brine (optional) | 1/2 teaspoon, if needed |
Scrub the sunmu well, because their skins carry color and flavor. Do not peel unless the skins are scarred or woody. Trim the root ends and any tough leaf stems. Cut the turnips into 3/4-inch wedges, keeping the pieces close in size so they salt and ferment at the same pace.
Put the cut turnips and radish batons in a large bowl and toss with 38g coarse sea salt. That is 2.5 percent of the turnip weight, enough to season and draw water without crushing the vegetable. Let stand 1 hour, turning every 20 minutes. The turnip should bend slightly at the edge but still snap cleanly when bitten.
Whisk 2 cups water with 1 tablespoon sweet rice flour in a small pot. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat, stirring, then cook 2 to 3 minutes until lightly thickened and glossy. Cool completely. The paste is not there to make the kimchi heavy; it feeds fermentation and helps the seasonings cling evenly.
Rinse the salted turnip and radish once under cold water, just enough to remove surface salt. Drain 20 minutes in a colander. Do not soak them. Soaking pulls out the turnip's own bite, and that bite is the reason we are making sunmu-kimchi.
In the bowl, mix the cooled rice paste with maesil-cheong, saeujeot if using, fish sauce if using, ginger, garlic, scallions, pear, and green chili. Add the drained turnip and radish and fold by hand until everything is lightly coated. Taste one piece. It should be seasoned, faintly sweet, and still plainly turnip, not garlic with a turnip costume.
Pack the kimchi firmly into a clean 2-liter jar or small onggi, pressing down to remove air pockets. Pour in any liquid from the bowl. If the vegetables are not mostly covered, stir 1 cup cold water with 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt and pour in just enough to come near the top of the vegetables. Leave at least 1 inch headspace.
Cover loosely or use a fermentation lid and set the jar in a tray at cool room temperature, about 18 to 21 C, for 24 to 36 hours. Press the vegetables down once a day with a clean spoon. When you see small bubbles at the sides and the brine tastes lightly tart, move it to the refrigerator.
Chill at least 2 days before eating, and 5 to 7 days if you want a rounder sourness. Serve cold as banchan, with rice and a mild soup or grilled fish. Use clean utensils every time and keep the vegetables under brine; treated properly, the kimchi keeps 3 to 4 weeks refrigerated.
1 serving (about 220g)
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