
Chef Jeong-sun
Albaechu-mul-kimchi (Baby Cabbage Water Kimchi)
Tender baby napa cabbage in a clear pear-garlic brine, lightly fermented until the broth turns clean and bright, the summer kimchi a beginner can make without a kimjang floor.
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Flat spring bomdong cabbage, lightly brined and tucked into a clear pear-radish kimchi broth, made without chili and eaten young while the leaves still taste like spring.
Bomdong comes to the market low and open, not tight like winter napa, the leaves spread flat because the cold made it grow slowly. Cook the month you are standing in. When bomdong is sweet and tender in early spring, don't bury it under chili paste or too much garlic. Make baek-kimchi (white kimchi) and let the cabbage taste like itself.
This is not kimjang kimchi packed away for winter. It is a young kimchi, brined lightly, filled with radish, pear, carrot, and scallion, then covered with a clear seasoned broth. The work tonight is quiet work: salt the leaves until they bend without snapping, rinse just enough, and season the broth so it tastes a little saltier than soup. The cabbage will drink it in overnight.
My teacher Master Seong-nyeo would press one leaf between her fingers before she trusted the clock. I still do that, but Notebook 19 says 900g bomdong takes 70 to 90 minutes in this brine. 손맛 is real; I measure it anyway. That is how a spring side dish can leave one kitchen and arrive correctly in another.
Bomdong is a spring form of napa cabbage grown through cold weather so the heads stay loose and flat, appearing in Korean markets from late winter into spring as one of the first tender greens after the kimjang season. Baek-kimchi (white kimchi) belongs to the older Korean family of brined vegetable kimchi made without red pepper; chili peppers reached Korea only after the Columbian exchange and became common in kimchi later in the Joseon period. This version is an everyday quick kimchi, eaten young, not a court dish and not a long winter preserve.
Quantity
900g, about 2 small heads
trimmed and leaves separated
Quantity
6 cups
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1 small (250g)
peeled and julienned
Quantity
1/2 (180g)
peeled and julienned
Quantity
1/2 small (50g)
julienned
Quantity
4
cut into 2-inch lengths
Quantity
3 cups
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
4 cloves
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
thinly sliced
Quantity
1/4 small (50g)
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
seeded and cut into fine threads
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bomdong (flat spring napa cabbage)trimmed and leaves separated | 900g, about 2 small heads |
| water for salting brine | 6 cups |
| coarse Korean sea salt for salting | 1/3 cup |
| Korean radishpeeled and julienned | 1 small (250g) |
| Korean pearpeeled and julienned | 1/2 (180g) |
| carrotjulienned | 1/2 small (50g) |
| scallionscut into 2-inch lengths | 4 |
| cold water for kimchi broth | 3 cups |
| coarse Korean sea salt for kimchi broth | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| fish sauce (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| garlicthinly sliced | 4 cloves |
| gingerthinly sliced | 1 tablespoon |
| onionthinly sliced | 1/4 small (50g) |
| fresh red chili (optional)seeded and cut into fine threads | 1 |
Cut off the tough stem ends from the bomdong and separate the leaves. Keep small inner leaves whole. Tear very large outer leaves in half lengthwise by hand, following the rib, so they pack neatly later. Rinse well in cold water, especially near the base where field sand hides, then drain for 10 minutes.
Dissolve 1/3 cup coarse sea salt in 6 cups water in a large bowl. Add the bomdong and turn the leaves so every rib gets wet with brine. Set a plate on top to keep them under the surface and brine 70 to 90 minutes, turning once halfway. The leaves are ready when the thick rib bends without snapping but still has a clean crunch.
Rinse the salted leaves twice in clean cold water, lifting and swishing rather than squeezing. Taste one rib. It should be pleasantly seasoned, not salty like seawater. Drain cut side down in a colander for 20 minutes. Too much loose water weakens the kimchi broth, and then people blame the recipe instead of the draining.
Julienne the radish, pear, and carrot into matchsticks about 2 inches long and 1/8 inch thick. Cut the scallions into 2-inch lengths. Keep the cuts even because this kimchi is pale and honest; careless knife work has nowhere to hide. Toss the radish, pear, carrot, scallions, and optional red chili threads together in a bowl.
Stir 3 cups cold water with 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, and the fish sauce if using. Add the sliced garlic, ginger, and onion. Taste it now. It should be clear, lightly sweet, and a little saltier than you want the finished kimchi, because the cabbage and pear will soften it overnight.
Place a few cabbage leaves in a clean 1.5 to 2 liter jar or lidded container. Scatter a small handful of the radish and pear filling between the leaves, then repeat until everything is used. Do not stuff it hard. Bomdong bruises easily, and this kimchi should stay open and light.
Pour the seasoned broth over the packed cabbage until the leaves are just covered. Press gently with clean fingers or a spoon to release trapped air. If the vegetables float above the liquid, set a small clean weight or a folded cabbage leaf on top. Anything exposed to air softens and spoils first.
Cover loosely and leave at cool room temperature, about 18 to 21 C, for 8 to 12 hours. You are not looking for deep sourness. You want the broth to smell lightly lactic and clean, with the cabbage still crisp. If your kitchen is warm, stop at 6 to 8 hours.
Seal the container and refrigerate at least 4 hours before serving. Serve cold in a small bowl with enough broth to sip, cutting the cabbage into bite-size pieces if the leaves are large. Eat within 7 to 10 days, while the pear is still bright and the bomdong still tastes of spring.
1 serving (about 190g)
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