
Chef Jeong-sun
Baek-kimchi (White Napa Cabbage Kimchi)
The kimchi from before chili, salted napa cabbage packed with radish, pear, jujube, and pine nuts in a clear brine that turns quietly tart in the jar.
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Tender baby napa cabbage in a clear pear-garlic brine, lightly fermented until the broth turns clean and bright, the summer kimchi a beginner can make without a kimjang floor.
Baby napa cabbage belongs to the warm months, when the market piles are small, pale, and sweet enough that you don't need a winter kimjang hand to tame them. Cook the month you're standing in. For this kimchi, that means a light brine, a short salt, and the patience to let the refrigerator finish what your hands began.
Mul-kimchi, or water kimchi, belongs to Korea's broad family of brined vegetable kimchi, prized as much for the drinkable broth as for the vegetables. Albaechu, the small tender form of napa cabbage, became common in modern markets as home cooks wanted quicker kimchi for smaller households, without the scale of late-autumn kimjang. Unlike winter cabbage kimchi, this version is made for short fermentation and cold storage, closer in spirit to nabak-kimchi than to long-keeping baechu-kimchi.
Quantity
900g
trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
3 tablespoons
for salting cabbage
Quantity
250g
peeled and cut into thin matchsticks
Quantity
1/2 small
peeled and grated
Quantity
3 cloves
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
thinly sliced
Quantity
2
cut into 1 1/2-inch lengths
Quantity
1
seeded and thinly sliced
Quantity
1
seeded and thinly sliced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 cup
for paste
Quantity
6 cups
cool
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons
for brine
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 cup
cut into 2-inch lengths
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| baby napa cabbage (albaechu)trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces | 900g |
| coarse sea saltfor salting cabbage | 3 tablespoons |
| Korean radish (mu)peeled and cut into thin matchsticks | 250g |
| Korean pear or Asian pearpeeled and grated | 1/2 small |
| garlicthinly sliced | 3 cloves |
| fresh gingerthinly sliced | 1 teaspoon |
| scallionscut into 1 1/2-inch lengths | 2 |
| mild red chili (optional)seeded and thinly sliced | 1 |
| mild green chili (optional)seeded and thinly sliced | 1 |
| sweet rice flour (chapssal-garu) | 1 tablespoon |
| waterfor paste | 1 cup |
| filtered watercool | 6 cups |
| coarse sea saltfor brine | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| minari (Korean water dropwort) (optional)cut into 2-inch lengths | 1/2 cup |
Put the cut baby napa cabbage in a large bowl and sprinkle with 3 tablespoons coarse sea salt, lifting the leaves with your hands so the salt reaches the thicker white ribs. Let it stand 30 minutes, turning once halfway through. The leaves should bend without snapping, but they should not collapse. This short salting seasons the cabbage and pulls out enough water to keep the finished brine clean instead of grassy.
Whisk 1 tablespoon sweet rice flour with 1 cup water in a small pot until smooth. Bring it to a gentle simmer over medium heat, stirring, and cook 2 to 3 minutes until it looks lightly cloudy and thin, not thick like porridge. Cool it completely. This little paste gives the fermentation something to eat and rounds the brine without making it heavy.
Rinse the salted cabbage once under cool running water, then drain it well for 10 minutes. Taste a thick rib. It should be gently seasoned, not salty like a pickle. If it tastes harsh, rinse once more. Water kimchi has nowhere to hide excess salt.
In a large bowl, stir together the cooled rice paste, 6 cups cool filtered water, 1 1/2 tablespoons coarse sea salt, and 1 tablespoon sugar until dissolved. Add the grated pear, then strain the brine through a fine sieve, pressing lightly on the pear pulp. You want its sweetness and fragrance, not cloudy pulp floating in the jar.
Layer the drained cabbage, radish matchsticks, garlic, ginger, scallions, and sliced chilies in a clean 2-liter glass jar or small onggi. Pour the brine over everything. The vegetables must be submerged by at least 1 inch; press them down with clean tongs or a fermentation weight. Add the minari now if you will eat the kimchi within a week, or add it after the first day if you want it greener and fresher.
Cover the jar loosely or close it and open it once a day while it ferments. Leave it at cool room temperature, about 18 to 22 C, for 12 to 24 hours. Taste the brine. When it is lightly tart, gently sweet, and a little lively on the tongue, move it to the refrigerator. In a hot kitchen, 8 to 12 hours may be enough.
Refrigerate at least 12 hours before serving so the cabbage and brine settle into each other. Serve cold in small bowls, with plenty of brine. Use clean utensils every time and keep the vegetables submerged; this is a fresh water kimchi, not a shelf-stable preserve, and it is best within 10 to 14 days.
1 serving (about 285g)
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