
Chef Lupita
Adobo de Carnitas estilo Apaseo el Grande
Guanajuato's Bajío adobo for carnitas, built with guajillo, ancho, naranja agria, laurel, and garlic before the pork goes into manteca de cerdo.
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San Luis Potosí's weeknight salsa of ripe jitomate guaje and fresh jalapeño, cooked down in manteca until glossy enough to crown the red masa of enchiladas potosinas.
San Luis Potosí lives in this salsa, especially around Soledad de Graciano Sánchez, where enchiladas potosinas are not a restaurant trick. They are supper, market food, party food, and the thing a good cook can make with masa, chile, cheese, and a hot comal.
This is the warm jitomate and jalapeño salsa that goes over the finished enchiladas, not the chile sauce worked into the masa. Do not confuse the two. The masa gets its color from dried chile, usually chile ancho or chile colorado. This salsa gets its body from ripe jitomate guaje and its green bite from fresh chile jalapeño, softened until it tastes rounded, not raw.
I learned a version like this from a señora near the market in Soledad, standing beside a comal black from years of work. She did not drown the enchiladas. She spooned the salsa over them warm, just enough to shine on the red masa, with crumbled queso fresco and a clay plate on the table. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
The principle is simple to say and easy to ruin: cook the tomato until it stops tasting watery, fry the salsa in manteca until the color deepens, and salt it enough to stand up to masa and cheese. No me vengas con atajos. A raw blender salsa does not belong here.
Enchiladas potosinas are associated with Soledad de Graciano Sánchez in San Luis Potosí, where local accounts credit Cristina Jalomo with popularizing the red chile masa version in the early 20th century after chile was accidentally mixed into nixtamal dough. The dish reflects the state's position between the Bajío, the Altiplano, and the Huasteca, using corn masa, dried chile, fresh cheese, and table salsas that vary by household. The tomato and jalapeño salsa is a later everyday companion to the enchiladas, practical for home kitchens because fresh jalapeño and jitomate guaje are easier to source year-round than many regional dried chiles.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
Quantity
3
stemmed
Quantity
1/4 medium
Quantity
2
unpeeled
Quantity
1/2 cup, plus more as needed
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
crushed between your fingers
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe jitomate guaje or Roma tomatoes | 1 1/2 pounds |
| fresh chile jalapeñostemmed | 3 |
| white onion | 1/4 medium |
| garlic clovesunpeeled | 2 |
| water | 1/2 cup, plus more as needed |
| manteca de cerdo | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| dried Mexican oreganocrushed between your fingers | 1/4 teaspoon |
Put the jitomates, jalapeños, onion, and unpeeled garlic in a small saucepan with the water. Cover and simmer over medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes, turning once, until the tomato skins split and the jalapeños turn from bright green to olive. That color change matters. Raw jalapeño bites hard. Cooked jalapeño sweetens.
Lift out the garlic cloves, slip off the skins, and return the soft garlic to the pan. Do not throw away the cooking liquid. It has tomato acid, chile flavor, and enough body to help the blender move without thinning the salsa into soup.
Transfer the cooked jitomates, jalapeños, onion, peeled garlic, and 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid to a blender. Blend until mostly smooth, 20 to 30 seconds. Leave a little texture. This is a table salsa for enchiladas potosinas, not a tomato puree from a carton.
Heat the manteca de cerdo in a 10-inch clay cazuela or heavy skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, pour in the blended salsa carefully. It will sputter. Stir in the salt and cook uncovered for 8 to 10 minutes, until the salsa darkens slightly, thickens, and leaves a clean trail when you drag a spoon across the bottom. La manteca es el sabor. It rounds the tomato and helps the salsa cling to the enchiladas.
Crush the Mexican oregano between your fingers and stir it in during the last minute. Taste for salt. The salsa should taste a little stronger than you think, because masa and queso fresco will soften it on the plate. If it gets too thick, loosen it with a tablespoon or two of the reserved cooking liquid.
Serve the salsa warm over freshly cooked enchiladas potosinas, spooned lightly across the top instead of drowning them. The red masa should still show. Finish with queso fresco if your enchiladas are being served that way. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 34g)
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