Poi (Hawaiian Pounded Taro)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large steamer pot with rack and tight lid
• •Papa kuʻi ʻai (poi-pounding board) and pōhaku kuʻi ʻai (stone pounder), or a heavy wooden board and sturdy masher
• •Bench scraper or flexible spatula for folding the paste

Instructions

1. 1

   Scrub the kalo

   Scrub the kalo under running water, trimming away muddy rootlets but leaving the skin on so the corm steams evenly. If the raw skin makes your hands itch, wear gloves and keep moving. That bite is the raw plant talking. The long cook is what quiets it.

   Choose kalo that feels heavy for its size, firm, and not sour-smelling. Ugly is fine. Soft rot is not.
2. 2

   Steam until soft

   Set the whole kalo in a large steamer over simmering water, cover tight, and steam 1 1/2 to 2 hours, adding more water below if the pot runs low. A skewer or fork should slide clean into the center with no chalky core and no hard spot hiding near the middle. Don't rush this part. Undercooked taro can bite the throat.

   Big corms take their own time. If one piece still fights the fork, keep steaming. No blame the taro.
3. 3

   Peel it warm

   Let the kalo cool just until your hands can handle it, then peel away the skin with your fingers or the back of a spoon. Trim out any fibrous spots, dark bruises, or hard eyes. Break the warm flesh into rough chunks and keep them covered so they don't dry out before the pounding starts.

4. 4

   Pound to paʻiʻai

   Wet the papa kuʻi ʻai and the pōhaku kuʻi ʻai, then pound the warm kalo a handful at a time, turning, folding, and scraping it back together as it spreads. First it looks dry and lumpy. Keep going. Then the pieces begin to hold, the surface turns satin-glossy, and the mass lifts as one heavy paste. That thick stage is paʻiʻai.

   A machine can feed you on a hard week, but this hand-pounded way teaches the texture. Use a sturdy masher if that's the tool you have, and still work it slow.
5. 5

   Thin to poi

   Dip your fingers or stone in cool clean water and work it into the paʻiʻai a little at a time. The water disappears before the poi loosens, so don't flood it. One-finger poi is thick and holds its shape, two-finger is soft and scoopable, three-finger is looser and smooth. Stop when it shines, flows slowly, and still tastes like kalo, not water.

6. 6

   Serve or sour

   Serve fresh poi the same day, sweet and gentle, in a shared bowl with fish, laulau, kālua puaʻa, stew, or whatever your table has. For sour poi, put it in a clean covered container and let it sit at cool room temperature 12 to 24 hours, then refrigerate. Stir in a little clean water before serving to bring back the gloss. If it grows mold or smells wrong instead of clean and tangy, let it go.

Chef Tips

• •Sourcing first. Buy kalo from a grower who can tell you where it came from, a loʻi, a farm, somebody's hands. Food from a pono place already tastes better before you touch it.
• •The cook is not done when the outside is soft. Cut or pierce to the center. Raw or undercooked taro can irritate the mouth and throat, so the corm must be soft all the way through.
• •Water is the whole difference between paʻiʻai and poi. Add it in small splashes and let the starch drink before you add more.
• •Frozen cooked taro from a Pacific or Asian market is a real weeknight help. Steam it hot again before pounding so it softens and takes water properly.
• •Sour poi is not spoiled poi. It is living food turning tangy. Keep the bowl clean, keep the water clean, and refrigerate once it tastes the way your household likes it.

Advance Preparation

• •Scrub the kalo earlier in the day and keep it covered at room temperature until steaming.
• •Cooked peeled kalo can be refrigerated up to 1 day, but warm it through before pounding. Cold kalo tightens and fights you.
• •Poi can be made 1 day ahead if you like it sour. Leave it covered at cool room temperature 12 to 24 hours, then refrigerate and loosen with clean water before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 120g)