
Chef Lupita
Alegrías Queretanas de Amaranto y Piloncillo
Querétaro's mercado candy of popped amaranto pressed with dark piloncillo syrup, pepitas, pecans, and cacahuate, a Bajío sweet that respects the seed before it decorates the table.
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Guanajuato's Bajío palanqueta is roasted cacahuate held in a thin piloncillo caramel, the kind of candy sold from wicker baskets in León before the paper turns sticky.
Guanajuato, in the Bajío, is where I place this palanqueta first. You see it in León, in Celaya, in the Mercado Hidalgo de Guanajuato, and across the road into Querétaro and San Luis Potosí, stacked in paper, sold from baskets, meant to travel in a school bag or a coat pocket. This is candy from feria and mercado, not convent silverware. Cada estado, su propia cocina, and the Bajío knows how to make sugar practical.
The defining ingredients are cacahuate tostado, piloncillo, and azúcar. Piloncillo, not brown sugar. The cone gives a cane-dark flavor that white sugar alone cannot give, while the azúcar keeps the caramel thin and crisp around the peanuts. No chile powder. No chocolate drizzle. No me vengas con atajos. A good palanqueta snaps under the teeth, then the peanut oil and piloncillo open together.
A señora at the Mercado de la Cruz in Querétaro once corrected me because my peanuts were cold when I stirred them into the syrup. She was right. Cold cacahuates seize the caramel and leave you with clumps instead of a clean sheet. Keep them warm, cook the syrup to hard crack, spread it fast, and stop touching it before it burns you. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo.
Palanquetas belong to an older Mexican family of seed candies, with pre-Columbian amaranth and seed sweets once bound with honey or maguey syrup and later remade with colonial cane sugar and piloncillo. Cacahuate entered central Mexican markets through Indigenous trade networks; its Nahuatl name, tlalcacahuatl, means earth cacao. In the Bajío, where haciendas, rail lines, and market fairs moved sugar, peanuts, cajeta, ate, and conservas through León, Querétaro, and San Luis Potosí, the flat peanut bar became a practical feria candy: cheap, portable, and made ahead.
Quantity
4 cups
preferably with the red skin still on
Quantity
2 cups
finely chopped or grated
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for greasing the work surface and tools
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| raw unsalted cacahuatespreferably with the red skin still on | 4 cups |
| piloncillofinely chopped or grated | 2 cups |
| granulated cane sugar | 1 cup |
| water | 1/2 cup |
| fresh Mexican lime juice | 1 tablespoon |
| sal de grano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| neutral oilfor greasing the work surface and tools | 1 teaspoon |
Lightly oil a marble slab, metal tray, or rimmed baking sheet. Oil a rolling pin, a metal spatula, and a chef's knife. Keep everything close to the stove. Once the caramel reaches the right point, you do not have time to search for tools. Hot sugar waits for nobody.
Heat a dry comal or heavy skillet over medium. Add the cacahuates and toast them for 8 to 10 minutes, shaking the pan often, until the skins darken in spots and the peanuts smell deep and oily. Rub them in a clean kitchen towel to loosen some of the skins, but do not make them naked. A little red skin belongs in a Bajío palanqueta.
In a copper cazo or heavy stainless saucepan, combine the piloncillo, cane sugar, water, lime juice, and sal de grano. Cook over medium heat, stirring only until the piloncillo dissolves. Once the syrup boils, stop stirring. If sugar crystals cling to the sides, brush them down with a damp pastry brush. Stirring after the boil is how you make grainy candy.
Cook the syrup until it reaches 300F to 305F on a candy thermometer. The color will be dark amber because of the piloncillo, so do not judge by color alone. If you have no thermometer, drop a little syrup into a glass of cold water. It should harden immediately and break clean between your teeth. Soft syrup makes sticky palanqueta, and sticky palanqueta is a failure of attention.
Turn the heat to low. Add the warm cacahuates all at once and stir hard with a wooden spoon until every peanut is coated in the dark caramel. It will sound rough against the pot, like gravel. That is correct. Work quickly and keep your hands away from the sugar. Caramel burns are serious.
Scrape the mixture onto the oiled surface. Use the oiled spatula and rolling pin to press it into a thin, even sheet, about 1/4 inch thick. Bajío palanqueta should not be a brick. The caramel is there to hold the cacahuate, not bury it.
While the candy is still warm but firming, score it into rectangles with the oiled knife. Let it cool completely, 20 to 30 minutes, then break along the scored lines. Store in an airtight tin or glass jar with paper between layers. Recetas probadas y garantizadas, if you keep the humidity out.
1 serving (about 50g)
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Chef Lupita
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