
Chef Jeong-sun
Baechu-geotjeori (Fresh Napa Cabbage Salad)
Fresh napa cabbage tossed with chili and fermented anchovy sauce, made for the hour when winter kimchi has gone too sour and the table needs something bright.
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Long shreds of scallion dressed at the last moment with chili, vinegar, soy, and sesame, made to cut through grilled pork belly without burying the onion's clean bite.
Pa-muchim lives or dies by the knife. People think the dressing is the dish because it is red, but the dressing is only holding the scallions in place. Cut the whites too thick and they shout. Cut them long and fine, soak them briefly, dry them well, and they become the cool, sharp thing grilled pork needs beside it.
At a Korean barbecue table, this bowl is not decoration. It sits next to samgyeopsal (pork belly), galbi (short ribs), or bulgogi, and it does the work that lettuce alone cannot do: it wakes the mouth after fat and smoke. Do not bury it under gochujang. Use gochugaru for color and warmth, vinegar for brightness, soy for salt, and sesame oil only enough to gloss the strands.
Notebook 41 says 180 grams scallions to 1 1/2 tablespoons gochugaru. That is the balance I trust for a home table of four. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on. Tonight this dish asks for twenty careful minutes, a sharp knife, and the discipline to dress it only when everyone is ready to eat.
Pa-muchim, also called pajeori in many barbecue restaurants, belongs to the modern Korean grill table, where raw scallion salad became a standard foil for fatty pork belly and marinated beef. Its seasonings come from the everyday muchim family of dressed vegetables, but its restaurant life grew especially visible with the spread of samgyeopsal houses in late twentieth-century Korea. The dish is ordinary, quick, and highly regional in small ways: some homes use soy and vinegar, some add maesil-cheong, and some keep it nearly dry with gochugaru and sesame.
Quantity
8, about 180g
roots trimmed
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for soaking
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
or 1 teaspoon sugar
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small clove
finely grated
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large scallionsroots trimmed | 8, about 180g |
| cold water | 4 cups |
| rice vinegarfor soaking | 1 teaspoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| rice vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 2 teaspoons |
| maesil-cheong (Korean green plum syrup)or 1 teaspoon sugar | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| toasted sesame seeds | 1 teaspoon |
| garlicfinely grated | 1 small clove |
| fine sea salt (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
Cut the scallions into 3-inch lengths. Split the thick white parts lengthwise first, then slice everything into long, thin threads. The white part is the sharpest, so thin slicing matters; thick pieces bite back too hard and make the salad taste raw instead of clean.
Put the shredded scallions in 4 cups cold water with 1 teaspoon rice vinegar for 10 minutes. This pulls back the harsh onion bite and makes the green strips curl a little. Do not soak longer than 15 minutes, or the scallion flavor washes out.
Lift the scallions from the water, drain, and spin or pat them very dry. Water left on the leaves thins the dressing and turns the bottom of the bowl red and weak. Pa-muchim should be glossy, not puddled.
In a mixing bowl, stir together the gochugaru, soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, maesil-cheong or sugar, sesame seeds, and grated garlic. Taste it before the scallions go in. It should be bright, lightly salty, and nutty, with sweetness only enough to round the vinegar.
Add the dry scallions to the dressing and toss by hand or with chopsticks just before serving. Use a lifting motion, not squeezing, so the threads stay crisp. Taste one strand. Add the salt only if your soy sauce is mild and the salad tastes flat.
1 serving (about 60g)
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