Osaka Pressed Squid Cake (いか焼き, Ikayaki)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Ikayaki press, or a flat griddle with a heavy cast-iron skillet or grill press
• •Wide thin spatula or bench scraper
• •Small ladle

Instructions

1. 1

   Make quick dashi

   Wipe the konbu with a damp cloth, but don't wash it. Put it in the cold water and warm it slowly over low heat. When the water trembles and small bubbles climb the sides, lift the konbu out. Bring the water just to a gentle boil, add the katsuobushi all at once, take the pot off the heat, and leave it alone for two minutes. Strain and let it drip without squeezing, then cool it. You need 1 cup for the batter.

   Boil the konbu and the stock turns bitter. Squeeze the bonito flakes and it turns oily. The batter is simple, so the dashi must stay clean.
2. 2

   Cut the squid

   Pat the squid very dry. Cut the bodies into short strips about 1/2 inch wide, and cut the tentacles into 1-inch lengths. Small pieces flatten under the press and cook before they toughen. Water on the surface thins the batter and makes the griddle spit, so dry squid is not fussiness. It's control.

3. 3

   Mix the batter

   Whisk the flour, katakuriko, and salt in a bowl. Add 1 cup cooled dashi and whisk until the batter pours like thin cream. Let it rest for 10 minutes while the griddle heats. Resting lets the flour drink, so the finished cake is chewy rather than pasty. Keep it thin. Ikayaki should press flat, not puff up.

4. 4

   Heat the press

   Heat an ikayaki press until both plates are hot, or heat a flat griddle with a second heavy cast-iron pan or grill press. Oil the cooking surface lightly, then wipe it nearly clean. Too much oil fries the edges and keeps the batter from meeting the iron. The chew comes from hot contact and pressure.

5. 5

   Press the squid

   For each cake, pour one quarter of the batter into a thin oval, then scatter one quarter of the squid over it. Close the press, or press firmly with the hot second pan, and cook for 90 seconds to 2 minutes. The edges should look set, the squid should turn opaque, and the cake should lift in one flexible sheet. If it tears, give it another few breaths before moving it.

   Squid turns rubbery when it waits too long on heat. Pressing cooks it quickly from both sides, which is why this plain little method works so well.
6. 6

   Set the egg

   Slide the pressed cake to a plate. Crack one egg onto the hot griddle, break the yolk, and spread it into a thin oval about the same size as the cake. Lay the cake back on top and press lightly for 30 to 45 seconds, just until the egg clings and sets. The egg is cooked as its own layer, not beaten into the batter, so it stays tender and the cake stays thin.

7. 7

   Sauce and fold

   Turn the cake egg-side up, brush with a thin layer of sauce, and fold it in half. Brush the outside with a little more sauce only if it needs it. The sauce should season the squid and egg, not drown them. Repeat with the remaining batter, squid, and eggs, wiping the griddle clean between cakes so old sauce or batter doesn't scorch.

8. 8

   Serve simply

   Serve the ikayaki warm, or let it cool on a rack and wrap it in parchment for a picnic. Add a small pinch of beni shōga if you like its sharpness. Do not pile the cakes while they are hot, because trapped moisture softens the pressed surface and steals the chew you worked for.

Chef Tips

• •Different squid reach shun at different times, so buy by condition, not by calendar alone. Look for firm, glossy flesh, clear eyes if the squid is whole, and a clean sea smell. If you catch ammonia or sourness, change the dish.
• •A true ikayaki press is best because it heats from both sides. The home stand-in is a hot griddle with a second heavy skillet heated separately. A cold weight presses, but it doesn't cook the top, and the squid waits too long.
• •Keep the batter thin. This is not okonomiyaki with squid in it. Thick batter hides the seafood and turns the dish heavy, when the whole pleasure is that pressed, elastic chew.
• •Use sauce with restraint. A thin brush gives sweetness and salt, the way we do it here. If the sauce is the loudest flavor, the squid has disappeared.

Advance Preparation

• •The dashi can be made up to two days ahead and kept refrigerated. Use it cold in the batter.
• •The squid can be cleaned and cut up to 4 hours ahead. Keep it covered and cold, then pat it dry again just before cooking.
• •The batter can rest in the refrigerator for up to 1 hour. Stir it before using. Do not hold it overnight, because it thickens and loses the light chew.
• •For a picnic, cool the folded cakes on a rack, wrap them in parchment, and eat within 2 hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 180g)