Niban Dashi (二番だし, second dashi)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Medium pot
• •Fine-mesh strainer
• •Clean cotton cloth, sarashi, or strong unscented paper towel

Instructions

1. 1

   Save the materials

   After making ichiban dashi, set aside the used konbu and katsuobushi. Don't let them sit warm for hours. If you're not making niban dashi at once, cool them quickly and refrigerate them, because old wet flakes turn dull before they turn useful.

2. 2

   Start in water

   Put the used konbu and katsuobushi in a pot with 5 cups cold water. Starting cold gives the konbu time to release what remains without shocking it into a slick, cloudy stock. Bring it slowly to a bare simmer over medium-low heat.

3. 3

   Simmer gently

   Keep the pot at a quiet simmer for 10 minutes. A few bubbles should rise, not a hard boil. Niban dashi is allowed more heat than ichiban dashi because you're drawing out deeper flavor, but a violent boil still roughens the broth and makes it taste tired.

   This is the difference between first and second dashi. The first protects fragrance. The second asks for body, so it gets time.
4. 4

   Add fresh flakes

   Add the fresh katsuobushi, turn off the heat, and let it stand for 2 minutes. That last handful restores aroma to a stock made from used materials. It should smell clean and faintly smoky, not heavy.

5. 5

   Strain without pressing

   Strain through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cloth or a strong paper towel. Let the liquid pass through on its own. Don't squeeze the flakes, tempting as it is, because squeezing brings bitter, oily notes into the stock. The loss of a spoonful is cheaper than spoiling the pot.

   A clear stock comes from patience at the strainer. Let gravity do the polite work.
6. 6

   Use or cool

   Use the niban dashi for miso soup, simmered vegetables, noodle broth, or sauces. If saving it, cool it quickly, cover, and refrigerate. It should taste round and savory, less bright than ichiban dashi but still clean.

Chef Tips

• •Make niban dashi the same day you make ichiban dashi if you can. The used konbu and flakes are still clean and sweet then, and the second stock tastes alive instead of stale.
• •Don't ask niban dashi to do the work of ichiban dashi. For clear soup, use the first pull. For simmering and miso soup, the second pull is exactly right.
• •If you need a meatless stock, use konbu and dried shiitake instead. That is shōjin dashi, the temple-kitchen way, and honmono in its own right, not a substitute pretending to be bonito stock.
• •Never use instant powder for this lesson. Powder can season a weeknight bowl in a hurry, but it cannot teach you how konbu and katsuobushi change from first pull to second.

Advance Preparation

• •Used konbu and katsuobushi from ichiban dashi can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours before making niban dashi.
• •Finished niban dashi keeps 2 days refrigerated. Reheat gently and use it in dishes where it will be seasoned or simmered.
• •For longer storage, freeze in 1-cup portions for up to 1 month. The aroma softens, but it remains useful for nimono and miso soup.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 240g)