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Necci Toscani con Ricotta
Created by
The ancient chestnut crepes of the Tuscan mountains, where three ingredients and an iron griddle create something that proves poverty often produces genius. The ricotta is not optional.
Breakfast & Brunch
Italian, Tuscan
Comfort Food
Special Occasion
15 min
Active Time
20 min cook•35 min total
Yield8 crepes (4 servings)
In the mountains of the Garfagnana, where the chestnut forests have fed families for a thousand years, they make these crepes the same way they always have: chestnut flour, water, salt. Nothing more. The flour itself provides sweetness, earthiness, and a depth of flavor that wheat cannot approach. Americans hear 'crepe' and think of thin, delicate French things rolled around strawberries and cream. Necci are not that.
These are peasant crepes, cooked traditionally between two cast iron paddles called testi, held over an open fire. The paddles would be greased with lardo, and the batter spread thin. You likely do not have testi. A good nonstick pan will work, though you sacrifice some of the smoky char that defines the original. What you must not sacrifice is the quality of the flour.
Chestnut flour should smell like autumn, like the woods, like something alive. If your flour smells stale or dusty, it has oxidized and will taste bitter. Find fresh flour from the current season's harvest, or do not begin. The ricotta must be fresh, preferably from sheep's milk as they make it in Tuscany. Stuff the crepes while they are still warm. Eat them immediately. There is nothing else to say.
Chestnuts were the 'bread of the poor' in the Apennine mountains for centuries, and necci represented the most direct way to transform the flour into something substantial. The name likely derives from the blackening of the crepes when cooked over open flame. In the Garfagnana, October's chestnut harvest still marks the beginning of necci season, and families guard their grandmother's testi like heirlooms.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
chestnut flour (farina di castagne)
Quantity
200 grams
fresh
water
Quantity
300 milliliters
at room temperature
fine sea salt
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
fresh ricotta
Quantity
250 grams
preferably sheep's milk
mild honey (optional)
Quantity
for drizzling
unsalted butter or lard
Quantity
for the pan
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| chestnut flour (farina di castagne)fresh | 200 grams |
| waterat room temperature | 300 milliliters |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fresh ricottapreferably sheep's milk | 250 grams |
| mild honey (optional) | for drizzling |
| unsalted butter or lard | for the pan |
Equipment Needed
- •10-inch nonstick pan or well-seasoned cast iron skillet
- •Fine-mesh strainer for draining ricotta
- •Whisk
- •Ladle or small measuring cup for portioning batter
Instructions
- 1
Make the batter
Sift the chestnut flour into a bowl. This removes any lumps and aerates the flour. Add the salt and stir. Pour in the water gradually, whisking as you go, until you have a smooth, thin batter. It should be thinner than pancake batter, closer to heavy cream in consistency. Let it rest for 10 minutes. The flour will hydrate and the batter will thicken slightly.
Chestnut flour is temperamental. If your batter seems too thick, add water by the tablespoon. If too thin, add flour. The consistency matters more than exact measurements because every flour absorbs differently. - 2
Prepare the ricotta
If your ricotta is wet, drain it in a fine-mesh strainer for 10 minutes while the batter rests. Wet ricotta will make the crepes soggy. The ricotta should hold its shape when spooned. Do not season it. Do not sweeten it. The chestnut flour provides enough complexity. Leave the ricotta alone.
- 3
Heat the pan
Set a nonstick pan or well-seasoned cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add a small amount of butter or, if you want authenticity, lard. Swirl to coat. The fat should shimmer but not smoke. Wipe out any excess with a paper towel. You want the thinnest possible film.
- 4
Cook the crepes
Pour about 3 tablespoons of batter into the pan, immediately tilting and rotating to spread it thin. The crepe should be perhaps 7 inches across and quite thin. Cook until the edges begin to pull away from the pan and the surface looks dry, about 90 seconds. Flip carefully and cook for 30 seconds more. The crepe will have dark spots. This is correct. Stack the finished crepes on a plate and cover with a clean towel to keep warm.
The first crepe often fails. The pan is finding its temperature. Do not despair. Adjust the heat and continue. By the third crepe, you will have learned the rhythm. - 5
Fill and serve
Work quickly while the crepes are warm. Place a generous spoonful of ricotta in the center of each crepe and fold it in half, or roll it loosely. Arrange two crepes on each plate. Drizzle with honey if you like sweetness, though the chestnut flour provides its own. Serve immediately. These do not wait.
Chef Tips
- •Seek out chestnut flour from the current year's harvest. Italian grocers and specialty shops carry it in autumn and winter. Once opened, store it in the freezer to prevent oxidation.
- •Traditional necci are cooked in testi, hinged cast iron paddles that press the crepe thin and cook both sides at once. If you find them at an Italian antique market, buy them immediately.
- •Sheep's milk ricotta has a tanginess and richness that cow's milk ricotta cannot match. If you cannot find it, use the freshest cow's milk ricotta available, never the grainy supermarket variety.
- •In the Garfagnana, they sometimes add a spoonful of fresh chestnut cream or a slice of lardo instead of ricotta. Both are traditional. Both are excellent.
Advance Preparation
- •The batter can be made up to 4 hours ahead and refrigerated. Whisk it again before cooking, as the flour tends to settle.
- •Cooked necci do not store well. They become rubbery. Cook them fresh and eat them immediately.
- •The ricotta can be drained ahead of time and refrigerated until needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 165g)
Calories
335 calories
Total Fat
14 g
Saturated Fat
8 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
6 g
Cholesterol
43 mg
Sodium
200 mg
Total Carbohydrates
44 g
Dietary Fiber
5 g
Sugars
6 g
Protein
10 g
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