
Chef Jeong-sun
Albaechu-mul-kimchi (Baby Cabbage Water Kimchi)
Tender baby napa cabbage in a clear pear-garlic brine, lightly fermented until the broth turns clean and bright, the summer kimchi a beginner can make without a kimjang floor.
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A pale spring water kimchi of thin radish and cabbage squares, quick to ferment, clean on the tongue, and made for the first spoonful beside juk, rice, or a fuller table.
Nabak-kimchi lives or dies by the cut. The radish and cabbage must be thin, even squares, not chunks, not shreds, because this kimchi is eaten with its broth. One spoon should carry a little brine, one radish square, one cabbage leaf, and enough brightness to wake the rice beside it.
My teacher would set the knife down if the radish came out too thick. She was right. Thick radish ferments slowly at the center and tastes raw while the cabbage has already softened. Cut it thin, salt it briefly, and give it a clear brine tinted with gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) through cloth, not clouded with loose powder. The broth should be pale pink, light, and clean.
This is not winter's deep kimchi and not dongchimi (radish water kimchi) with its long cold wait. Nabak-kimchi is quicker and gentler, the kind of kimchi that belongs beside juk (rice porridge), tteok (rice cakes), or a table where heavier dishes need something clear between bites. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.
Nabak-kimchi is a Korean mul-kimchi (water kimchi) named for nabak-sseolgi, the thin square cutting of radish and cabbage that defines the dish. Unlike long-fermented winter dongchimi, it is made to ferment quickly and is often served at home meals, with rice porridge, or on holiday tables where its clear broth refreshes the palate. Its pale pink color traditionally comes from gochugaru strained into the brine, giving tint and gentle warmth without turning the broth heavy.
Quantity
450g
peeled and cut into 1-inch thin squares
Quantity
300g
pale inner leaves cut into 1-inch squares
Quantity
2 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
6 cups
cooled if boiled first
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for tinting the brine
Quantity
4 cloves
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
thinly sliced
Quantity
3
cut into 1-inch lengths
Quantity
1/2
peeled and cut into thin matchsticks
Quantity
1/2 small
cut into thin matchsticks
Quantity
1
seeded and thinly sliced
Quantity
1 small handful
cut into 2-inch lengths
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Korean radish (mu)peeled and cut into 1-inch thin squares | 450g |
| napa cabbagepale inner leaves cut into 1-inch squares | 300g |
| coarse sea saltdivided | 2 tablespoons |
| watercooled if boiled first | 6 cups |
| sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes)for tinting the brine | 1 tablespoon |
| garlicthinly sliced | 4 cloves |
| fresh gingerthinly sliced | 1 teaspoon |
| scallionscut into 1-inch lengths | 3 |
| Korean pear or Asian pearpeeled and cut into thin matchsticks | 1/2 |
| carrot (optional)cut into thin matchsticks | 1/2 small |
| fresh red chili (optional)seeded and thinly sliced | 1 |
| minari (Korean water parsley) (optional)cut into 2-inch lengths | 1 small handful |
Cut the radish and napa cabbage into thin squares, about 1 inch wide and 1/8 inch thick. Nabak means this flat slicing, and the knife work is not decoration. Thin pieces season quickly, ferment evenly, and sit neatly on a spoon with the brine.
Put the radish and cabbage in a wide bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon of the salt. Rest 20 minutes, turning once. The vegetables should bend a little but still keep their snap. Do not salt them until limp, because this kimchi is meant to stay clean and crisp.
Stir the remaining 1 tablespoon salt and the sugar into 6 cups water until fully dissolved. The brine should taste lightly salty, not like seawater. This amount gives enough salt for fermentation without making the finished broth harsh.
Put the gochugaru in a small square of cheesecloth or a fine tea strainer and swish it through the brine until the liquid turns pale pink. Do not dump the flakes straight in. Nabak-kimchi should have color and a little warmth, not a gritty red broth that tastes only of chili.
Drain the salted vegetables but do not rinse them. Pack them into a clean 2-quart jar or crock with the garlic, ginger, scallions, pear, carrot, red chili, and minari if using. Pour the pink brine over everything and press gently so the solids sit under the liquid.
Cover loosely and leave at cool room temperature for 18 to 24 hours, until the brine smells lightly sour and tastes bright. If your kitchen is warm, check at 12 hours. Refrigerate once it is gently tangy. Serve cold, with both vegetables and brine in each bowl.
1 serving (about 310g)
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