Modan-yaki (モダン焼き, okonomiyaki with noodles)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Teppan or wide flat griddle, or a large cast-iron skillet
• •Two broad spatulas for turning
• •Mixing bowl
• •Pastry brush or spoon for sauce

Instructions

1. 1

   Loosen the noodles

   Separate the yakisoba noodles with your fingers. If they are tight from the packet, splash them with a tablespoon of water and loosen them gently. Don't soak them. You only want the strands free enough to spread flat on the griddle.

2. 2

   Crisp the noodles

   Heat a wide griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat and oil it lightly. Spread the noodles into two thin rounds, season each with a teaspoon of soy sauce, and press them flat with a spatula. Let the underside color for 3 to 4 minutes before you move them. This is the first secret: crisp noodles stay distinct inside the modan-yaki, while loose wet noodles simply steam.

   Press, then wait. The griddle needs contact time to turn the noodle surface fragrant and lightly crisp.
3. 3

   Make the batter

   Whisk the flour and cooled dashi together until no dry patches remain, then stir in the eggs and grated nagaimo. Keep the mixing calm. Beating hard builds toughness, and modan-yaki wants a batter that binds the cabbage without becoming bread.

4. 4

   Add the cabbage

   Fold in the chopped cabbage, scallions, tenkasu, and beni shoga just before cooking. The cabbage begins giving up water as soon as it meets salt and batter, so late mixing keeps the center light instead of soggy.

5. 5

   Set the cakes

   Oil the griddle again. Spoon half the cabbage batter over each crisped noodle round and shape each into a thick circle, about 6 inches across. Lay three slices of pork belly over each top. Keep the sides tidy but don't press the batter flat. The height lets the cabbage cook gently and stay sweet.

6. 6

   Cook and turn

   Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until the bottom is browned and the edges look set. Slide two spatulas underneath, turn each cake in one committed motion, and cook pork-side down for 6 to 7 minutes. The pork fat renders into the surface, which seasons the cake better than more sauce ever could.

7. 7

   Finish the center

   Turn once more so the pork side faces up, lower the heat slightly, and cook 3 to 4 minutes longer. If the outside is browning too fast, cover loosely with a lid for a minute. The center is done when a skewer meets tender cabbage, not wet batter.

8. 8

   Sauce and serve

   Brush the top with okonomiyaki sauce while the surface is still glossy from the griddle. Add a light stripe of Japanese mayonnaise if you use it, then finish with aonori and katsuobushi. Serve whole or cut into quarters. The sauce should shine, not bury the dish.

Chef Tips

• •Use fresh yakisoba noodles if you can. Dried noodles can work after boiling and draining well, but fresh ones brown more cleanly and give the right chew.
• •Choose cabbage that feels heavy and crisp, with leaves that snap rather than bend. In winter and early spring, cabbage is especially sweet, and shun does half the cooking before you begin.
• •Nagaimo gives the batter its soft lift and slight stretch. If you cannot find it, leave it out and reduce the dashi by 2 tablespoons. Don't pretend the texture is the same, but the dish will still be honest.
• •Tenkasu adds little pockets of richness. If you have none, skip it rather than replacing it with bread crumbs, which bring the wrong flavor and texture.
• •A griddle is the right tool because it gives space for turning. A wide cast-iron skillet is the sensible stand-in. Crowding the pan makes the noodles steam, and that is exactly what we're avoiding.

Advance Preparation

• •The cabbage can be chopped and the scallions sliced up to 6 hours ahead; keep them covered and cold.
• •The dashi can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Use it cold or at room temperature for the batter.
• •Mix the batter base up to 2 hours ahead, but fold in the cabbage only just before cooking so it does not shed water.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 580g)