Kakioko (カキオコ, Hinase oyster okonomiyaki)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Teppan, or a wide cast-iron skillet or heavy griddle
• •Two broad metal spatulas
• •Box grater for nagaimo
• •Mixing bowl

Instructions

1. 1

   Clean the oysters

   Put the oysters in a bowl of cold salted water, swish them gently, then lift them out and drain on paper towels. Do not soak them. You are loosening grit and shell chips, not washing away the sea-sweet liquor that gives kakioko its character.

   Use oysters that smell clean and briny, never sharp or muddy. Sourcing first, always.
2. 2

   Make the batter

   Whisk the flour, cold dashi, grated nagaimo, egg, soy sauce, and salt until just combined. A few small lumps are harmless. Overmixing wakes the gluten and gives you a tough cake, when what you want is a tender one that lets the cabbage and oysters speak.

3. 3

   Fold in cabbage

   Add the shredded cabbage, tenkasu, and scallions to the batter and fold until the cabbage is lightly coated. It should look like too much cabbage and barely enough batter. That is correct. The batter binds; it should not drown.

4. 4

   Start the cakes

   Heat a teppan or wide heavy skillet over medium heat and film it with oil. Divide the cabbage mixture into two rounds, each about 2cm thick. Keep the edges tidy with a spatula so the cakes cook evenly instead of thinning out and scorching at the rim.

5. 5

   Set the oysters

   Lay half the oysters over each round, pressing them lightly into the surface without burying them. This gives the oysters direct heat after the turn, while the cabbage underneath softens first. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until the underside is browned and the cake moves as one piece.

6. 6

   Turn once

   Slide two spatulas under the cake and turn it in one steady motion, oyster-side down. Press very lightly, only to settle it against the hot surface. Heavy pressing squeezes out the oyster juices and gives you dryness where there should be gloss.

   The one turn decides the dish. Wait until the first side holds together, then move without fuss.
7. 7

   Cook through

   Cook 5 to 7 minutes more, lowering the heat if the oysters brown too fast. The cake should feel set when nudged, the cabbage tender, and the oysters just firm and glistening. Turn it once more briefly if you want to brush the smoother side.

8. 8

   Finish and serve

   Brush the top with okonomiyaki sauce, add a thin line of Japanese mayonnaise if using, then finish with aonori and katsuobushi. Serve at once on a warm plate. The sauce belongs on the surface, not as a hiding place.

Chef Tips

• •Ask the fishmonger when the oysters were shucked and where they came from. For kakioko, plump winter oysters from a clean cold-water source matter more than any flourish at the stove.
• •A teppan is the proper surface, broad and evenly hot. At home, use a cast-iron skillet or heavy griddle, and give each cake enough space to turn without panic.
• •Nagaimo gives the batter lightness and a faint stretch. If you cannot find it, make the dish without it rather than replacing it with something sweet or starchy that changes the character.
• •Do not press the cake hard after turning. Okonomiyaki is not a sandwich to flatten. The oysters need to stay plump, and the cabbage needs its little pockets of air.
• •Sauce with a light hand. Kakioko is built around the oyster, so let the topping shine rather than shout.

Advance Preparation

• •Shred the cabbage up to 6 hours ahead and keep it covered in the refrigerator. Dry cabbage mixes better and keeps the batter from turning watery.
• •The dashi can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Use it cold in the batter so the mixture stays light.
• •Mix the batter and cabbage only just before cooking. If it sits too long, the cabbage releases water and the cake loses its shape.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 420g)