Holubtsi z Hrechkoyu (голубці з гречкою, buckwheat cabbage rolls)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •A wide pot for softening cabbage leaves
• •A heavy lidded casserole or big modern stockpot
• •A wide pan for the zasmazhka
• •A small sharp knife for shaving cabbage ribs
• •A plate that fits inside the pot, optional, to keep the rolls settled

Instructions

1. 1

   Loosen the leaves

   Cut deeply around the cabbage core and lower the head into a wide pot of salted simmering water. As the outer leaves turn glossy and flexible, lift them away with tongs and keep going until you have enough for the rolls. Shave the thick rib from each leaf so it bends without cracking. If you're using fermented leaves, separate them and taste one; rinse only if the salt is shouting.

   Save torn leaves and the small inner cabbage. They line the pot and protect the holubtsi from catching on the bottom.
2. 2

   Wake the hrechka

   Warm the rinsed buckwheat in a dry pot until its nutty smell opens, then add 450ml of the stock or water and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook gently until little craters appear on top and the grains have taken in most of the liquid, but still keep a small bite. Spread it out to cool. Stop before it goes soft; the leaf will finish the work.

3. 3

   Build the zasmazhka

   Warm the sunflower oil in a wide pan and add the onions with a pinch of salt. Let them soften slowly until translucent and sweet-smelling, then add the carrot and cook until the carrot slumps and the oil turns orange. Scoop half into a bowl for later. Add the mushrooms to the pan, plus the chopped soaked porcini if you're using them, and cook until their liquid has gone and the pan smells roasted rather than raw. Stir in the garlic, buckwheat, most of the dill, black pepper, and enough salt to make the filling taste full.

   That reserved half of the zasmazhka is not garnish. It goes in at the end so the sweet onion and carrot sit brightly in the tomato braise instead of flattening into it.
4. 4

   Roll the holubtsi

   Lay a cabbage leaf cupped side up, with the stem end closest to you. Add a generous spoonful of buckwheat filling, fold the bottom over it, tuck in the sides, and roll away from yourself. Keep the roll snug but not tight; buckwheat swells and needs a little room. Line a heavy pot with the saved cabbage pieces and pack the rolls seam-side down, shoulder to shoulder.

5. 5

   Braise them low

   Stir together the passata, tomato paste, 300ml stock or water, the porcini soaking liquid if you have it, the fermented tomato mors or sauerkraut brine if using, bay leaves, salt, and pepper. Pour it around the rolls, not hard over the top, until the liquid comes about two-thirds of the way up. Cover with a few spare cabbage leaves, then a lid, and set over a low flame. You want a soft tuck-tuck under the lid, not an angry clatter. Cook until the cabbage yields easily to a spoon and the whole pot smells sweet.

6. 6

   Finish and rest

   Spoon the reserved zasmazhka over the top and nudge some of it into the tomato braise. Add the last dill, cover again, and let the pot sit off the heat so the sauce settles into the rolls. Serve with more dill and a thin gloss of sunflower oil. Add smetana at the table if you're not keeping the meal vegan.

Chef Tips

• •Freeze the whole cabbage the night before, then thaw it in a bowl, if you don't want to blanch. The leaves soften and peel away without a wrestling match.
• •Fermented cabbage leaves give the older sour version of the dish. Fresh leaves are not lesser; add sauerkraut brine or fermented tomato mors and the pot finds its brightness.
• •The filling forgives you. More mushrooms, fewer mushrooms, a handful of grated parsnip, all fine. Overcooked buckwheat forgives less, because it turns pasty inside the leaf.
• •Make them a day ahead if you can. Holubtsi wake up overnight, and the cabbage becomes sweeter after resting in the tomato sauce.
• •Keep the flame low. A hard boil bursts the rolls and roughs up the sauce; the right sound is gentle and wet, until it sounds right.

Advance Preparation

• •The cabbage can be frozen overnight and thawed instead of blanched.
• •The buckwheat filling can be made a day ahead and chilled.
• •Assembled holubtsi can be refrigerated overnight before braising; add a splash more stock if the pot looks dry.
• •Cooked holubtsi keep well for 4 days in the fridge and reheat gently in their sauce.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 390g)