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Created by Chef Lesia
The oldest holubtsi start with a whole fermented cabbage leaf, sour from the barrel, wrapped around rice and fried onion, then stewed until tomato, leaf, and filling become one soft thing.
The oldest cabbage leaf for this dish is not green and squeaky. It is sour, yellow-edged, soft from months in the barrel, and it carries winter in its folds before you put a spoonful of rice inside. Fresh cabbage is a bit more modern, and it will feed you beautifully, but if you ever find fermented leaves, use them once and you'll understand why Aunt Nadia wrote only, "sour leaf if you have it," as if that settled the matter.
What makes the pot work is not fussing over perfect little parcels. It is the low tomato braise, quiet enough that you hear only the lazy blip at the edge, while the rice swells and the leaf gives itself up. Roll them close, seam side down, but don't strangle them. Rice needs room to breathe.
Then comes the zasmazhka, the slow-sweated flavour base of onion and carrot. I add it near the end, when the cabbage has softened, because its green-gold oil and sweetness sit brightly on the tomato instead of disappearing into the long braise. Make a big pot. Holubtsi are not shy food, and the next day they taste as if the table waited for them.
Quantity
1 large head, about 1.5kg, or 18 to 20 leaves
Quantity
250g
rinsed
Quantity
3 large
finely diced, divided
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| white cabbage or fermented cabbage leaves | 1 large head, about 1.5kg, or 18 to 20 leaves |
| short-grain ricerinsed | 250g |
| onionsfinely diced, divided | 3 large |
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