
Chef Makoa
Chicken Hekka (Hawaiʻi Local Plantation-Style Chicken Sukiyaki)
Hawaiʻi Local chicken hekka, the plantation-camp cousin of Japanese sukiyaki, with tender chicken, long rice, shiitake, bamboo shoots, and sweet shoyu gravy for rice.
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Hawaiʻi's Local plate-lunch stew: beef chuck cooked soft in tomato gravy with carrot and potato, spooned over hot rice, humble and steady from the sugar-camp stove to the rice cooker.
My auntie never called this deep food. She called it dinner, and that was enough. Hawaiʻi has the kalo, Hāloa our elder brother, and the imu, the earth oven, but Hawaiʻi also has the lunch wagon, the rice cooker clicking on the counter, and one pot of beef stew feeding everybody who walks through the door.
Hawaiian-style beef stew belongs to Hawaiʻi's Local plantation-creole table, shaped after cattle ranching, imported beef, canned tomatoes, rice, and the shared sugar-camp kitchens of Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, Korean, Filipino, Puerto Rican, and other island hands. It is Hawaiʻi food more than pre-contact Hawaiian food, and that distinction is a doorway, not a judgment. Across the Triangle, families made their own everyday stews and tinned-meat meals too, from Tongan sipi to Sāmoan pisupo with rice, each island speaking its own hunger in the pantry it had.
Quantity
3 pounds
cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
Quantity
2 teaspoons
plus more to taste
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 can (28 ounces)
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
to round the tomato
Quantity
4 medium
cut into thick chunks
Quantity
4 medium
peeled and cut into large chunks
Quantity
2
cut into thick slices
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef chuck roastcut into 1 1/2-inch chunks | 3 pounds |
| kosher saltplus more to taste | 2 teaspoons |
| black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flour | 3 tablespoons |
| neutral oil | 3 tablespoons |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| tomato paste | 2 tablespoons |
| crushed tomatoes | 1 can (28 ounces) |
| beef broth or water | 4 cups |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| shoyu (soy sauce) | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar (optional)to round the tomato | 1 teaspoon |
| carrotscut into thick chunks | 4 medium |
| potatoespeeled and cut into large chunks | 4 medium |
| celery ribscut into thick slices | 2 |
| frozen peas (optional) | 1 cup |
| cooked white rice | for serving |
Pat the beef dry, then season it with the salt and pepper. Toss with the flour until every piece has a light coat. That little bit of flour helps the gravy grab later, not thick like paste, just enough to cling to the rice.
Heat the oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat. Brown the beef in batches, giving the pieces room so they color deep brown on the edges instead of sweating gray. Take your time here. The bottom of the pot should look dark and sticky, like it has something to say.
Lower the heat to medium, add the onion, and cook until it softens and picks up the beef drippings. Stir in the garlic for one minute, then the tomato paste, cooking until it darkens brick-red and smells sweet, not raw.
Add the crushed tomatoes, broth, bay leaves, Worcestershire, shoyu, and sugar if the tomato tastes sharp. Scrape the bottom clean, return the beef to the pot, and bring it to a gentle simmer. Cover partly and cook 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the beef gives when you press it with a spoon but is not falling to strings yet.
Add the carrots, potatoes, and celery. Simmer uncovered 35 to 45 minutes, stirring gently now and then, until the potatoes are soft at the center and the carrots have no crunch left. If the gravy gets too thick, loosen it with a splash of water. If it is thin, let it cook down until glossy.
Stir in the peas if using and cook just long enough for them to turn bright. Pull out the bay leaves, taste for salt, then let the stew sit 10 minutes so the gravy settles down. Spoon it over hot white rice, two scoops if you're eating plate-lunch style, with mac salad if you want the full plate. No blame the plate for being humble.
1 serving (about 650g)
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