
Chef Joost
Acar Ketimun (Indo-Dutch Cucumber Pickle)
Acar means pickle, ketimun means cucumber, and this little bowl of sweet vinegar, chilli, and crunch is the cool note that lets an Indo-Dutch rijsttafel keep its balance.
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The name means a jumble, and the plate proves it: green beans, cabbage, egg, potatoes, and tofu gathered under pindasaus, Java carried into the Dutch rijsttafel.
The first time I understood the rijsttafel, it was not from the little parade of dishes. It was from the one dish that made sense of the parade: gado-gado, vegetables and egg gathered under pindasaus, a quiet heap of green, white, gold, and brown that politely told the rest of the table to calm down.
But let me tell you a secret. Dutch kitchens did not simply discover this dish and become cosmopolitan overnight. Gado-gado came by the long, uneasy road of the Dutch East Indies: Java, Batavia, colonial dining rooms, Indo families packing recipes into memory, tokos, Indonesian groceries, opening in grey Dutch streets after the war. History and cookery, they cannot be separated, especially when the sauce smells of roasted peanuts and ketjap manis, sweet soy sauce, in a country that once thought a dinner party needed six kinds of potato.
The name already tells you how to cook it. In Indonesian usage, gado-gado is a mixed assortment, a jumble, and the dish keeps the word honest: beans, cabbage, sprouts, potato, cucumber, tofu, egg, all separate until the moment the sauce brings them together. You blanch the sturdy vegetables briefly because they must keep their bite, you cool them because dull, tired greens are a sadness, and you pour the pindasaus warm so it loosens and clings.
I prefer to keep it a bit more relaxed, in the Dutch way: one broad platter, sauce in a bowl, krupuk, crisp crackers often made with shrimp, on the side for those who eat it, and a spoon big enough to settle arguments. This is dinner-party food when you arrange it neatly, weeknight food when you don't, and both are correct.
Gado-gado belongs to the Javanese and Betawi family of vegetable dishes dressed with peanut sauce, alongside lotek, pecel, and karedok; its reduplicated Indonesian name is used for a mixed assortment, and the plate follows that meaning. Dutch eaters met it through the colonial rijsttafel, the nineteenth-century Dutch East Indies service of many dishes around rice, then brought it into Dutch domestic cooking through post-1949 migration from Indonesia and the rise of the Indo toko, Indonesian grocery. The dish teaches a difficult truth of the Dutch table: some beloved foods arrived through colonial rule and survived through families who made a home in the Netherlands without letting Java disappear.
Quantity
500g
scrubbed
Quantity
4
Quantity
300g
trimmed
Quantity
2
cut into thin matchsticks
Quantity
250g
thinly sliced
Quantity
150g
Quantity
1
halved lengthwise and sliced
Quantity
300g
drained and cut into 2cm cubes
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
200g
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
100ml, plus more as needed
Quantity
2
finely grated
Quantity
1 to 2 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
roughly crushed
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small waxy potatoesscrubbed | 500g |
| large eggs | 4 |
| green beanstrimmed | 300g |
| carrotscut into thin matchsticks | 2 |
| white cabbagethinly sliced | 250g |
| bean sprouts | 150g |
| cucumberhalved lengthwise and sliced | 1 |
| firm tofudrained and cut into 2cm cubes | 300g |
| neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| salt | to taste |
| unsweetened smooth peanut butter | 200g |
| coconut milk | 250ml |
| water | 100ml, plus more as needed |
| garlic clovesfinely grated | 2 |
| sambal oelek, chile paste | 1 to 2 tablespoons |
| ketjap manis, sweet soy sauce | 3 tablespoons |
| tamarind paste or fresh lime juice | 1 tablespoon |
| palm sugar or dark brown sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| roasted peanutsroughly crushed | 2 tablespoons |
| fried shallots | 3 tablespoons |
| krupuk or emping (optional) | to serve |
| lime wedges (optional) | to serve |
Put the potatoes in salted cold water, bring to a boil, and cook until a knife slides in without resistance, 15 to 18 minutes. During the last 9 minutes, lower in the eggs. Lift the eggs into cold water, drain the potatoes, and let both cool until you can handle them. Peel the eggs and halve them; cut the potatoes into thick coins.
Pat the tofu very dry. Heat the neutral oil in a wide frying pan over medium-high heat and fry the cubes until golden on several sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Salt them lightly while they are still in the pan. Tofu is a sponge with opinions; give it colour first, and it will carry the sauce instead of disappearing beneath it.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a lively boil. Add the green beans and carrots for 3 minutes, add the cabbage for the last minute, and add the bean sprouts for only the final 30 seconds. Scoop everything into very cold water, then drain well. The cold stop is not fussing; it fixes the colour and keeps the vegetables from sagging under the sauce.
In a small saucepan, whisk the peanut butter, coconut milk, water, garlic, sambal oelek, ketjap manis, tamarind or lime, sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon salt over low heat. Let it bubble gently for 3 to 4 minutes, whisking until smooth. Thin with a spoonful of water at a time until it falls from the spoon in a thick ribbon. Hard boiling makes peanut sauce split and sulk, and nobody invited that to dinner.
Arrange the potatoes, beans, carrots, cabbage, bean sprouts, cucumber, tofu, and egg halves in loose sections on a broad platter. Spoon some warm pindasaus over the centre and leave the rest in a bowl for the table. Scatter with crushed peanuts and fried shallots, and serve with krupuk or emping. The first proper mixing happens on the plate, which is exactly what the name promised.
1 serving (about 500g)
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