
Chef Isabel
Aletría Murciana
Aletría Murciana is Murcia's humble noodle guiso: fine fideos, pork ribs, potato, saffron, and a dark sweet sofrito. Get that base right and the pot knows where it's going.
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Fideuà negra is Valencian, born for the paellera but made with noodles instead of rice: sepia, cuttlefish ink, good fish stock, and the dry finish that makes it the dish.
Fideuà negra is Valencian, a black seafood noodle dish cooked in the paellera until the noodles drink the stock and finish dry, glossy, and dark with cuttlefish ink. This is not pasta with sauce, and it is not a rice dish pretending. The short fideos cook flat in the pan, the sepia gives the sea, and the allioli on the side is not decoration. It is the bite that wakes the whole thing up.
The method that decides it is the dry cook. Build the sofrito, the slow onion and tomato base, until it is dark, sweet, and almost sticking to the pan. Toast the noodles in that oil, add the inked stock hot and all at once, then leave it alone. Stir now and you loosen starch, cloud the stock, and lose the clean, separate finish a fideuà wants. Let the paellera do its work.
If you are far from Valencia, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use good fresh squid if sepia is not at your fishmonger, and buy cuttlefish or squid ink in little packets from a fish shop or Spanish grocer. The flavour will be a little lighter with squid, less deep and sweet than sepia, but it will still cook properly. What you cannot fake is the stock. Make it from prawn shells and white fish bones, or buy the best unsalted fish stock you can and reduce it until it tastes of the sea.
Serve it straight from the pan with lemon wedges if you like, and allioli for everyone to spoon beside their portion. My Margin on this one is short: do not drown the noodles. Measure the stock, keep the heat honest, and stop before it turns soupy. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Fideuà belongs to the Valencian coast, especially Gandia and the fishing towns around La Safor, where the paellera was already the natural pan for cooking dry, communal dishes over a wide heat. The dish follows the logic of paella in its vessel and finish, but uses short noodles instead of rice, a fisherman’s answer when the catch and the stock were already at hand. The black version comes from the same coastal larder: cuttlefish and its ink, prized because the ink gives colour, salinity, and a deep marine flavour, not just drama.
Quantity
320g
Quantity
500g
cut into 2cm pieces
Quantity
150g
Quantity
900ml
Quantity
12g
Quantity
120g
grated
Quantity
120g
finely chopped
Quantity
3 cloves
finely chopped
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| short fideuà noodles, fideo nº4 or short hollow fideos | 320g |
| fresh sepia or cleaned squidcut into 2cm pieces | 500g |
| raw prawns, shells on | 150g |
| strong fish stock | 900ml |
| cuttlefish or squid ink | 12g |
| ripe tomatograted | 120g |
| onionfinely chopped | 120g |
| garlicfinely chopped | 3 cloves |
| sweet pimentón de la Vera | 1 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 80ml |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| lemon (optional)cut into wedges | 1 |
| allioli | to serve |
Bring the fish stock to a simmer in a small saucepan, then whisk in the cuttlefish or squid ink until it turns evenly black. Taste it. It should be well seasoned and marine, because the noodles will drink every bit of it. Keep it hot while you cook the base.
Set a 38 to 42cm paellera over medium-high heat and add 40ml of the olive oil. Salt the sepia lightly, then sear it for 4 to 5 minutes until it loses its water and starts to catch in golden patches. Add the prawns for 1 minute, just until the shells turn pink, then lift the prawns out to a plate and leave the sepia in the pan.
Lower the heat to medium, add the remaining 40ml olive oil, then add the onion with a pinch of salt. Cook it slowly for 10 to 12 minutes, scraping up the browned seafood bits, until the onion is dark gold and soft. Add the garlic for 1 minute, then the grated tomato, and cook until the tomato is thick, dark, and almost dry. This slow sofrito is where the sweetness comes from. Rush it and the whole pan tastes thinner.
Stir in the pimentón for a few seconds, keeping it moving so it smells sweet and does not burn. Add the fideos and turn them through the oil and sofrito for 2 to 3 minutes, until they look glossy and a shade darker at the edges. Pésalo, no lo adivines: the noodle and stock measure is what gives you a dry finish instead of a black soup.
Spread the noodles and sepia evenly across the paellera. Pour in 850ml of the hot inked stock all at once, reserving 50ml only in case the pan runs dry too soon. Shake the pan once to level everything, then stop stirring. From here the noodles settle, cook, and form their little crusted bottom if you let them be.
Cook over a lively medium-high heat for 8 minutes, then lower to medium and cook 6 to 8 minutes more, until the liquid has disappeared and the noodles are just tender. Lay the prawns back on top for the final 3 minutes. If the noodles are still chalky and the pan is dry, add the reserved 50ml hot stock around the edge, not over the top.
When the pan is dry and you hear a faint crackle underneath, turn off the heat and cover the paellera loosely with a clean cloth for 5 minutes. The noodles finish settling in that rest. Serve from the pan with allioli on the side and lemon wedges if you like. Tal como se hace allí: the allioli sits beside the fideuà, not stirred through the whole pan.
1 serving (about 450g)
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