
Chef Jeong-sun
Beoseot-jeongol (Mushroom Hot Pot)
A wide shallow pot of autumn mushrooms, thin beef, tofu, and clear anchovy-kelp broth, arranged by color first and simmered at the table so every mushroom still tastes like itself.
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Golden tofu pockets filled with seasoned beef, set among mushrooms, minari, and colored vegetables, then simmered tableside in a clear broth so every ingredient keeps its own voice.
Ajeongol (tabletop hot pot) is not a jjigae (stew) wearing a wider pot. Jjigae usually leans on one main ingredient and comes to the table finished. Jeongol is arranged first, then cooked where people can watch it happen, several ingredients keeping their own names while the broth ties them together.
Master Seong-nyeo made me arrange dubu-jeongol three times before she let me light the burner. The tofu had to be pressed, browned, slit, and filled with seasoned beef without tearing. The colors had to show before the broth went in: yellow egg, green minari (water dropwort), white tofu, brown mushrooms, red chili. She cared about the eye because the eye teaches the hand what order means.
This is dinner-party food, but not in the stiff way. A portable burner is enough. A wide shabu pot is enough. What you cannot hurry is the tofu: dry it well, brown it gently, and fill each pocket with 2 level teaspoons of beef, not a lump. Too much filling bursts the tofu and clouds the broth.
Season with restraint. The broth should be clear enough to taste mushroom, beef, tofu, and greens separately. 손맛 is real; I measure it anyway, because once the pot is in the center of the table, everyone is trusting your hands.
Jeongol is the Korean family of wide-pan hot pots cooked at the table, distinct from jjigae because several prepared ingredients are arranged together before broth is added. Its formal relative, sinseollo (yeolguja-tang), belongs to Joseon royal court cuisine, a cooking tradition designated Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 38 in 1971, but dubu-jeongol is the home-table tofu branch of that composed method. The dish keeps the court habit of color and order while using ingredients a good market can supply: tofu, beef, mushrooms, and seasonal greens.
Quantity
5 1/2 cups
Quantity
12 large
heads and guts removed
Quantity
1 piece, about 4 inches square
Quantity
4
rinsed, simmered in broth, then divided
Quantity
120g
peeled and sliced 1/2 inch thick
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus 1/4 teaspoon more if needed
Quantity
2 blocks, about 300g each
Quantity
3/4 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
200g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 caps
finely minced for beef filling
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
150g
cut into wide strips
Quantity
1/2 medium
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 small
cut into thick matchsticks
Quantity
1 small
cut into thick matchsticks
Quantity
100g
trimmed
Quantity
2 caps
thinly sliced
Quantity
60g
cut into 2-inch lengths
Quantity
2
cut into 2-inch lengths
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
50g
soaked 20 minutes and drained
Quantity
2
separated
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
thinly sliced
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| water | 5 1/2 cups |
| dried anchovies (myeolchi)heads and guts removed | 12 large |
| dried kelp (dasima) | 1 piece, about 4 inches square |
| dried shiitake mushroomsrinsed, simmered in broth, then divided | 4 |
| Korean radishpeeled and sliced 1/2 inch thick | 120g |
| soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang), for broth | 2 tablespoons |
| rice wine or mirin, for broth | 1 tablespoon |
| kosher salt, for broth | 1/2 teaspoon, plus 1/4 teaspoon more if needed |
| firm tofu | 2 blocks, about 300g each |
| fine sea salt, for tofu | 3/4 teaspoon |
| neutral oildivided | 3 tablespoons |
| ground beef | 200g |
| soy sauce, for beef filling | 1 tablespoon |
| soaked shiitake caps from brothfinely minced for beef filling | 2 caps |
| scallion, for beef fillingfinely minced | 1 tablespoon |
| garlicminced | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 teaspoon |
| rice wine or mirin, for beef filling | 1 teaspoon |
| potato starch | 1 teaspoon |
| sugar | 1/2 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/4 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seeds | 1 teaspoon |
| napa cabbage leavescut into wide strips | 150g |
| onionthinly sliced | 1/2 medium |
| zucchinicut into thick matchsticks | 1 small |
| carrotcut into thick matchsticks | 1 small |
| oyster mushrooms or beech mushroomstrimmed | 100g |
| remaining soaked shiitake caps from broththinly sliced | 2 caps |
| minari (water dropwort)cut into 2-inch lengths | 60g |
| scallionscut into 2-inch lengths | 2 |
| red chilithinly sliced | 1 |
| green chili (optional)thinly sliced | 1 |
| dangmyeon (sweet potato starch noodles) (optional)soaked 20 minutes and drained | 50g |
| large eggsseparated | 2 |
| fine sea salt, for egg garnish | pinch |
| soy sauce, for dipping sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| rice vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| hot pot broth or water, for dipping sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| scallion, for dipping saucethinly sliced | 1 teaspoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes), for dipping sauce (optional) | 1/2 teaspoon |
Put the water, anchovies, kelp, dried shiitakes, and radish in a pot over medium heat. When small bubbles collect at the edge, about 8 minutes, lift out the kelp. Kelp left to boil hard gives the broth a slick bitterness, and no arrangement on top can hide that. Simmer the anchovies, radish, and shiitakes 12 minutes more, then strain. Save the shiitakes and measure 4 1/2 cups broth, adding water if you are short. Stir in the soup soy sauce, rice wine, and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt. It should taste lightly seasoned, because it will reduce at the table.
Cut each tofu block into 8 rectangles, each about 3 inches by 1 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch, for 16 pieces total. Lay them on a towel and sprinkle both sides with the 3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt. Rest 15 minutes, then press gently with another towel until the surface is dry. Wet tofu tears under the knife and spits in the pan; dry tofu browns cleanly.
Finely mince 2 of the soaked shiitake caps. Mix them with the ground beef, soy sauce, minced scallion, garlic, sesame oil, rice wine, potato starch, sugar, black pepper, and sesame seeds. Stir in one direction for 1 minute until the filling turns sticky. That stickiness matters because the beef has to cling inside the tofu pocket instead of falling into the broth.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the neutral oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Brown the tofu in batches, 2 to 3 minutes per broad side, until pale gold. Do not chase a dark crust. This tofu still has to simmer, and too much browning makes the outside leathery. Move the browned pieces to a tray and let them cool until you can handle them.
With a small sharp knife, cut a slit along one long side of each tofu piece, stopping before you cut through the far side. Tuck in 2 level teaspoons of beef filling, about 12g, and press the tofu closed gently. It should look full, not swollen. If one piece tears, set it near the side of the pot and cook it anyway. The table will forgive one imperfect pocket faster than it forgives cloudy broth.
Beat the egg yolks with a pinch of salt in one bowl and the whites with a pinch of salt in another. Wipe a skillet with a little oil and cook each into a thin sheet over low heat, keeping them pale. Slice into fine strips for jidan (egg garnish). Add this at the end, not the beginning, so it stays clean and tender.
Slice the 2 remaining soaked shiitake caps. Cut the cabbage, onion, zucchini, carrot, mushrooms, minari, scallions, and chilis as listed. Keep the tender minari leaves separate from the stems. If you are using dangmyeon, soak only 50g and drain it well. More than that steals the broth and turns a composed jeongol into a noodle pot.
Stir together the soy sauce, rice vinegar, broth or water, sliced scallion, and gochugaru if using. This cho-ganjang (soy-vinegar sauce) is for dipping the tofu pieces at the table. Keep it sharper than the broth and do not sweeten it; the pot itself should stay clear.
Lay the cabbage and onion across the bottom of a wide shallow jeongol pan. Put the drained dangmyeon in the center if using. Arrange the stuffed tofu in a ring or spokes with the filled slit facing up, then set the carrot, zucchini, mushrooms, scallions, chilis, and minari stems in separate bands of color. Pour 4 cups of broth down the side of the pan, not over the tofu, and keep the remaining 1/2 cup nearby. Arrange first, broth second. That is the jeongol distinction.
Set the pan on a portable burner at the table over medium heat. Cover for 5 minutes to cook the beef filling evenly, then uncover and simmer 6 to 8 minutes more, spooning broth over the tofu. The beef filling must be fully cooked with no pink at the thickest pocket. Add the minari leaves and jidan strips for the last minute. Taste the broth only after the filling is cooked; adjust with 1 teaspoon soup soy sauce for depth or 1/4 teaspoon salt for plain saltiness. Keep the burner low while serving, and lift the tofu gently from the side so the arrangement lasts long enough for everyone to see it.
1 serving (about 600g)
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